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Suspension

3K views 29 replies 14 participants last post by  losNRS 
#1 ·
I am looking at upgrading my suspension. Looking at either just dropping the cash and going with an air system or upgrading the shocks. If I go with the air system, which one is the best or is that just a personal taste. Now if I go with progressive, 412 or 440 and why. Been reading up on all, just don't know enough and would like some opinions.

I know I will get slammed for posting it here, but I did try on the suspension thread with next to none for feed back.
 
#2 ·
The single biggest improvement you can make is to install a True-Track linkage. You will be surprised how much movement there is in the rear engine mounts. Sloppy suspension that you think is due to lousy shocks is mostly the engine and swing arm moving around on the rear engine mounts. I put a True-Track linkage on an otherwise stock V-Rod and the difference, even at very moderate speeds on surface streets, was immediately noticeable.
The linkage itself goes over the top of the engine behind the rear cylinder, attaching to pre-existing holes in the top of the engine case and two holes in the frame above and below the left rear engine mount. Installed it is almost invisible. Most of it is hidden behind he pulley cover. It is the cleanest linkage I have seen them make. Well worth the money.
 
#30 ·
I did the True Track recently and I have to say that the bike (chassis) felt tighter. Now, I live in south Florida and we're pretty much flat landers here. So, I haven't felt what you felt, but I do feel a stiffness in the chassis that I like. Based on my informal testing and seat of the pants.....I like it, and feel that the V handles better now. Another thing I noticed, before upon decel around 40 mph with hands off the bars, I had a slight shimmy/wooble, then it would go away as the speed subsided. With the True -Trac, it hasen't done that anymore. So, I don't know.....just reporting.
 
#4 ·
It's work to install. You have to remove the headers to gain enough room to install the mounting block on top of the engine case, and attaching the bracket to the frame takes patience too. Small parts in tight places. I found taping over gaps where small parts might disappear, such as between the back of the engine and the frame, saved me a lot of grief when I fat fingered a screw or washer.

They prototyped the current bracket on one of my Rs with a 180 tire and wide 1 3/8 inch belt. Their previous version had been fabbed up on a DX and the frame bracket interfered with the belt. Not now. It is a universal fit on all the V-Rod models.

Worth the effort though. Like I said, I was surprised how much difference it makes.
 
#5 ·
What if u have the larger fuel tank? Any issues their? Got a link to co.
 
#6 ·
It shouldn't. The linkage is completely in front of the steel shield between the engine and fuel tank. It attaches to the top of the engine above the gearbox and to the left side of the frame with a C-shaped cast aluminum bracket that fit around and in front of the swingarm pivot. The linkage runs above the engine from the frame bracket to the bracket bolted to the top of the engine case.

Don't those larger tanks find their extra capacity by being taller and wider?
 
#7 ·
Wider, yes, it probably is a little taller, been a while since we did it. Pretty sure it is tho. Do you have a manufacturer of tht company?
Thanks. Joe
 
#9 ·
True -Track and Progressive 440's would be a killer setup.

I have 440's and what a difference.

Very pleased.

I would also do the front with progessives to stop the front end dive.

My bike is very smooth.

I have talked to some members here with the air and wished they went another way.

The air ride is all cool to show when you pull up and start of from a location. (ie bike shows and stuff.)
 
#13 ·
:them:

Not sure about all the other statements above except this one, I had Stock suspension for about 50k miles, swapped out to Progressive 440s and its was Night and Day, like a newbike. had a small problem with the "Finish" and they took care of it pronto. So before you start Adding to the bike other then the Actual Suspension I would go with replacing the Actual suspension 1st and go from there.
 
#21 ·
:them:

Not sure about all the other statements above except this one, I had Stock suspension for about 50k miles, swapped out to Progressive 440s and its was Night and Day, like a newbike. had a small problem with the "Finish" and they took care of it pronto. So before you start Adding to the bike other then the Actual Suspension I would go with replacing the Actual suspension 1st and go from there.
Chrome problem? How did they "solve it"? Chrome in my rear shocks are starting to mess up :soapbox:
 
#11 ·
Before you pop for Progressive shocks, you might give Pierre Vailencourt at Works Performance a call. 818.701.1010 . They are price competitive but much higher quality. Nothing of theirs is off the shelf. All of their shocks are made to order for your weight and riding style. Rebuild prices are very reasonable, usually around $70 plus shipping. Very good quality shocks from a company that has been around for many decades in Los Angeles.
 
#14 ·
I have installed Progressive 444's on the rear and their progressive front springs. The jarring I used to get from exspansion joints has stopped and it is a much improved ride. I rode with the 444's for about a month before I installed the front springs and I can say that I actually got better results from the front springs than the 444's. I wasn't able to test the 412's or 440's, so they may be just as good as the more exspensive 444's.
 
#15 ·
LOVE a set of 440's. Shame they dont make them anymore.
 
#20 ·
I have the Arnotts and am very satisfied, I have had them on my 08 DX for about 3 years and have had no problems at all. I have a mate who has Proggressive Shocks and he is very unimpressed with them. He changed his becauase the factory shocks continually bottomed out when he was 2 up. He has tried every setting on them and still they bottom out. On a recent ride we swapped bikes for an hour and when we stopped he just looked at me and said why didn't I get Air Ride. His wife said the ride was so much better. I must admit whilst I was riding his bike I didn't think the Progressives were anything to rave about. I do have the Progressive front springs and Screaming Eagle Fork oil which made the front end much more responsive.
 
#24 ·
I'm always doubtful about owner claims regarding the superiority of a suspension component when compared to clapped out 50,000 mile stock parts. Replace the worn out component with a new stock part and the difference will be night and day. What counts is if the "upgrade" is an improvement over new stock components. I would bet some are, and some are not. Now, fire away.
 
#26 ·
Mine were replaced at about 1000km because the stock items are $$hit.
 
#27 ·
Have a 12DX. Replace the stock rears with arnotts at about 300 miles. I found the ride comparable to the stockers which i thought were surprisingly good given the stories that i had read about the previous rear stockers.
So that being said, i like my arnotts. I think ride quality is just about as good as stock as far as plushness. Now, the arnotts are subject to being constantly adjustable so sometimes you will be out of the sweet spot and they will surely let you know. For this reason some prefer to have a pressure gauge so you can get a visual for what your best setting is.
After riding with them for a bit you will be able to find the optimal height and stiffness for your liking. As far as riding in the twisties, the arnotts may not be as good as stock for me but the are pretty close. I have no problem backing it into an occasional turn and lighting it up with complete confidence. But when you drop the arnotts down and lower your scoot cheech and chong style......a non air ride setup cannot match that wow factor. they just look so bas ass with that tire tucked up in the fender. then when its time to really ride......you just air up and let it rip. Love em
 
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