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1320? Parts list/prices

6K views 38 replies 16 participants last post by  FABSTER 
#1 ·
Hi,
Before everyone tells me to use the search engine. There's only so much you can read on an iPhone before it does your head in.

What I'm wondering is if anyone can tell me what parts I would need for a 1320? Running a 07 1130 now with v+h Indy, seII cams, pcIII with hub to trigger a 30hp nitrous shot. Making 120hp before nos, 148.? On the gas. I want to get as close to the 148ish as I can before using the bottle. Can I achieve it?

If anyone has info I'd be very much appreciative. Will the bottom end hold up tho? Parts/prices/contacts? Any info would be good.

Cheers
 
#5 ·
If it's the 1320 kit with the Wiseco pistons, avoid it like the plague. Lots of piston failures.

There are other combinations that are way more reliable.
 
#7 ·
Was it a 1350 from 1130? U havnt looked at any kits yet, just curious if anyone has done it could they tell me what parts are required and what's involved in it.
 
#8 ·
There really isn't a cookie cutter parts list, everyone goes with something different. But to get to the 1350 from a 1130 you would have to put in a 6mm stroked crank, and 1250 sleeves/pistons. Do a search through the threads and you'll find all sorts of builds, really depends on what you are after.
 
#9 ·
This might help,
o2Man put this together

1130 bore = 100mm
1250 bore = 105mm
Stock stroke = 72mm
Destroyer stroke = 75mm
"1/4" stroke = 78mm
"3/8" stroke = 81mm
"1/2" stroke = 84.5mm

1130 with Destroyer Crank = 1178.1cc
1130 with "1/4" crank = 1225.2cc
1130 with "3/8" crank = 1272.4cc
1130 with "1/2" crank = 1327.3cc

1250 with Destroyer Crank = 1298.9cc
1250 with "1/4" crank = 1350.8cc
1250 with "3/8" crank = 1402.8cc
1250 with "1/2" crank = 1463.4
Link
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124362&highlight=stroke+sizes
 
#11 ·
So, max bore, stock stroke? 1302?, or larger?
How many stroked or BB have 20K miles or more? What fails? If the OEM grew the bore 5mm, it must be pretty safe. What is the safe max? It seems the stock 1130 is the overengineered, Dodge slant six of motorcycle motors. Bulletproof. Then the 1250, just about bulletproof. Next? Short stroke means less piston speed. More relaible? Chime in! Joe
 
#13 ·
1320 parts list?
 
#15 ·
:hidesbeh:
 
#14 ·
so from what i understand here, leaving a stock stroke in 1130 motor but a 4.25 bore will give me 1318? correct? only machining being bores? heads also?
 
#18 ·
It's a waste to invest in bore/sleeves/pistons for a 1320 build and not do heads/valves/cams.

As a semi-valid comparison, 1300 motors with cams, 1mm oversize valves, 58MM TB, and bigger injectors produce more HP and comparable or better torque than a 1350 motor with light cams and no headwork.

Motor builds get expensive quickly, but you're leaving a lot on the table if you do just bore and/or stroke without addressing the breathing portion of the equation.
 
#19 ·
I agree with Burke, they do get expensive really quick. And even when you think you've planned for everything there is always the little things that sneak up on you. If you are going to bore/stroke then you have to really address the intake, if you are going FI then obviously you don't need to worry about it as much.

Burke what do you put down with you 1300? Just for comparsion sake here for when I get my throttle bodies fixed and redynoed lol.
 
#24 ·
Burke what do you put down with you 1300? Just for comparsion sake here for when I get my throttle bodies fixed and redynoed lol.
I've had everything from 128 (on the conservative dyno at MWT III) to 147 (at Eagle HD), but 138 and small change is what I have seen the most on multiple dynos.

Torque is high 80's to low 90's.

Some of the early 1350s with just light cams and no headwork are typically low 130's.

Well built 1350's with similar or better top-end work are usually 5-8 HP stronger than my bike.
 
#21 ·
I have riden Sean bike.

I will tell you that it pulls like a frickin Train.

That front wheel comes up real fast.

He pulls about 135 + or - a couple.

He has a set of cams in there that is a special cut from Larry.
 
#22 ·
I dont doubt it, but he has an impressive mod list and quite a bit more than just some head work. I was just saying a big bore with mild head work will definatly make more power than a stock bore with lots of head work. Though the would probably be close. Also his mod list will cost more $$ than just doing a big bore.

I do agree with him entirely that it each will benefit from the other, really its best to do both if its in your budget.
 
#25 ·
I dont doubt it, but he has quite a bit more than just some head work. I was just saying a big bore with mild head work will definatly make more power than a stock bore with lots of head work. Though the would probably be close. Also his mod list will cost more $$ than just doing a big bore.

I do agree with him entirely that it each will benefit from the other, really its best to do both if its in your budget.
To clarify, I'm not saying that a BB with no work will produce less than a stock bore with extensive headwork, but once you start boring/stroking, the investment return on the top end modifications increases, the bigger you go.
 
#31 ·
maybe not in australia its not ,lol,,

out of curiosity ,mr buddiee ,just so we know whether to listen to a wise man or not ,have u had vrods and built motors for them or hung out on the forum long before u joined up here ,not dissing you at all ,but too much advice from unknowledgble people,that bring their exsperiances from other style and types of motors ,often just confuse or misinform the person thats asking ,thats the only reason im asking cos ur join date says rather recently ,which doesnt mean u know jack shit ,and thats why im asking ,to clarify ,
 
#32 ·
That was really difficult to read. Yes I am new to the vrod community, had sport bikes most my life. I did lurk here for awhile before joining. I wanted to shift from sport bikes to a cruiser and debating between a vrod and hammer.
I am an aerospace design engineer by trade and car/bike enthusiast by hobby. I have built a procharged ws6, procharged c6, supercharged rsx with nitrous, ls1 sandrail, supercharged g35, supercharged g37, twin turbo vr4, r1 with nitorus, and many many dirt bikes. I also helped design the tim fireball twin charged with nitrous mini cooper dragster.
http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/2005/top-2005-Mini-Fireball-Tim-Racing-Dragster.htm

Not saying I am right in this discussion, just stating what info I have gathered from the results of my build.
 
#33 ·
difficult to read ,HOW RUDE ,lmao ,gee ur the first one to say that ,haha,ok, i get it , ur a gun on super charged stuff , and have an inkling of what goes on in these motors ,carry on ,lol,

me, id take seans motor over a stock 1350 any day ,i know the difference in mine once it the fitzgerald treatment , with cams and heads and a bunch of other goodies
 
#34 ·
Basic parts list:

Sleeves: Advanced Sleeves p/n 3392A ~ $275 each, 4.25" bore

Pistons: CP, p/n M5059

This combo is about same cost as Wiseco but won't come apart. Wiseco piston is not noted to be the best.

Advanced may be able to bore your case, but they do not list it either. Any good machine shop should be able to bore your case. I'd go to a top end commercial machine shop - not an automotive shop. Not saying the automotive shop can't do it but this takes something other than a portable boring bar I believe.

I had an 07 and was going to do what you did and traded up to an 08 with the 4-1/8" bore intending to stroke as it was suppose to be the same money. It was not in reality.

I do not know if CP pistons are heavier than stock, but the pretty much have to be so you'll need to balance. If you take your stock components to a high end automotive shop they can back calculate the balance factor from your stock parts and rebalance to your new parts. Way cheaper than going to some "high end" motorcycle crank company - it is ridiculous what they charge to balance - hideous charge. Typical balance should be $250 max plus heavy metal.

My welded crank was rejected the first time around and we'll see what it looks like the next time. Fundmentally the chrome moly steel these cranks are made of with ~0.04% carbon should not be welded, although with sufficient preheat they should be OK. THe problem I have with it is the heat affected zone of the weld is right where the highest stresses are - not good! THe stock crank is induction hardened like most diesels, but this puts the transition zone from hardened to non-hardened out in the throw of the crank instead of right at the cheek from the throw to the crank pin. I am going to run a material analysis on the weld metal when it comes back just to see what they use for curiousities sake. I'd love to do hardness checks but portable hardness checks are notoriously poor at times.

One thing that is generally always true - a given head will flow more into a bigger bore due to less valve shrouding. That being said the 4.25" bore is better for flow, but the stroker with 1250 bore will be a better torque producer down where you ride the most so that is an advantage and is why I went the route I did, plus you gain 39 cc. If you don't do headwork you are leaving a lot on the table, although I've yet to see anyone post the flow numbers on the stock heads vs. ported ones with bigger valves - so just how much more flow are you getting? I guess the proof is in the HP produced.
 
#35 ·
Say no to Wiseco

Be warned about the Wiseco piston option on the bigger 4.25 bore, there's a few of us caught out by this particular piston design cracking on the skirts. It'll only deliver you a big sad face sooner or later :mad:

I'm in the process of rebuilding mine, with the much improved CP piston option. Dyno sheets from Tilleys NC had us at 147bhp with this 1318cc setup, which appears to be the upper end from what I've seen posted here.

Was tempted to stroke it this time round with a 6mm crank, K1 rods, and either Destroyer or Elvis injectors but with an untimely rebuild (i.e. limited $$) have chosen not to venture into the unknown i.e. retuning the Screaming Eagle Race Tuner (probably would change to the Dynatech twin tech setup) and to be honest concerns about reliability long term.

At the end of the day, we all have our preference, more power is not always best (yes I said it) its how its delivered and more importantly you're preferred riding style, IMO. Personally I like my motors to rev quickly hence staying with the stock stroke and we're locking it down with ARP fasteners, pinning the bearings and throwing bottom end engine brace from Scott at Fitzgerald Motorsport (highly recommended vendor). I'd be happy with 150bhp, and once its back together, and run in, looking for a one-time appearance at the strip in the 9sec bracket.
 
#36 ·
anyone know if the wiseco kit with liners etc, can accommodate the cp pistons? it seems like it would be a safer option judging by what ive read here, but again im still learning!
 
#37 ·
I'm using CP 4.25" pistons together with Wiseco sleeves. No problems.
 
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