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belt tension help !

11K views 49 replies 21 participants last post by  cnburton 
#1 ·
Hi all,

had new tyre put on by HD dealer drive belt was quite tight (as per normal) done around 60 miles and its a lot looser now ?

it can be moved from the top to bottom of the lower guard adjustment marks

is this normal ? or has the axle moved forward a touch because its not tight enough ?

any advice would be great.
 
#33 ·
That's the "Cheatin" method!
It works!
 
#5 ·
...had new tyre put on by HD dealer drive belt was quite tight (as per normal) done around 60 miles and its a lot looser now ?

it can be moved from the top to bottom of the lower guard adjustment marks

is this normal ? or has the axle moved forward a touch because its not tight enough ? ...
Don’t ride the bike as is. You’ll ruin the belt if it jumps sprocket teeth.

If you don’t have a torque wrench to tighten the axle nut to 140 to 150 ft•lbs (190 to 203 Nm) and a belt tensioning tool then have the knuckle heads that installed the tire (tyre) pick up the bike and fix it.

The twist technique for testing belt tension is better than nothing but there’s two things wrong with it
  1. you shouldn’t twist a polychain drive belt (or bend it backwards) according to the manufacturers cautions
  2. you can’t be sure what the tension is using this technique
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
Either of those tools would work.
 
#10 ·
According to my service manual (2007) belt deflection should be 8MM (10 for the VRSCR).
Belt deflection window on the belt guard is graduated in 2MM increments. Deflection is measured with 10lbs(4.5kg) force on belt.
 
#11 ·
Video in 101 link...see sig.
 
#41 ·
I have found MANY of Rod's videos helpful, this one included. It is very difficult for me to accurately measure the deflection using the Harley tool when I'm working solo. You'd be able to move even a properly tensioned belt the full distance, but you'd be using more than 10 pounds of pressure as recommended. You need the tool to do it correctly. It's cheap enough for anyone to afford.
 
#12 ·
great thanks

dealer had it today and they were working on it for a while he came out and said he adjusted it 3 times and the still moved as if it needed more on the torque wrench but he did not want to do that ? , he said he cleaned all the grease off the cam ? and had done it and was confindent that it "should be ok" but had marked the left side cam adjuster with the swingarm "nipple" and asked me to ride it and see if the mark moved , if so i needed a new axle shaft , nut and cam.

well i rode it hard for around 80miles and the mark has not moved , so would think its good to go ! but i cant understand why they had a such a job to get it to stay put ? this is the third time they have tried now !
my fear is there is something wrong , although i dont know what and that the next time the wheel has to be removed them or someone else is going to have the same issues ? as my warranty runs out in a few months

all they did was replace the rear tyre !

any advice as to what to do ?
 
#13 ·
any advice as to what to do ?
Stay away from that Harley dealer.It's quit evident from them ignorantly telling you you need a new axle that they don't want to work on your Harley.

Ride it for a few days,destroy the belt,then they can sell you a belt on top of a new axle.
God man,how in the **** can an axle wear out?

Do the work to your motorcycle yourself.
 
#14 ·
its under warranty so costing them !

what i cant understand is why would they have trouble setting it up?

why would the axle not tighten enough to stay put ?
 
#15 ·
It doesn't cost a dealer to do warranty repairs.They get paid for it,that's besides the point.Please tell me what replacing an axle will accomplish?


The axle wouldn't tighten because the person that attempted to work on your motorcycle didn't know what he was doing.
Now we'll hear that he was the trained V-Rod mechanic.
 
#17 ·
hey god bless forums !

im clueless at tech stuff but try to understand best i can, you never know whether what they are telling you is correct ?

but he said it had loads of grease from the tyre change which he had to clean off , then adjusted it , but had problems and even when set to torque it would move , as if it needed more torque but he did not want to do that , he then said that it took three HD trained techs ! to adjust it up set the axle torque , he siad he left the "left" side axle cover off and marked it to see if it moved ? was 99% it would not but gave me a list of parts to order with service if it did , and it was

1)axle
2)right side cam adjuster
3)axle nut

now i have done some miles and gave it grief and it has "not" moved but my issue is my understanding of why it would have been an issue in the first place ?

and would i have have an issue again when the wheel needs to be pulled because there is something wrong or the tech just had a bit of bother with it ?

warranty runs out in Aug and if theres an issue then i want it sorted before im expected to pay for repairs

photo of what he told me to keep an eye on ! plus im off to holland on it 2 weeks time !
 
#18 ·
soz
 

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#22 ·
I know it's easy to allow ones self to look foolish by making a mistake that should have been nipped in the bud and these guys probably did their best trying to correct the mistake.The first mechanic had enough humbleness about himself to ask the other mechanics for help,but geeeeze man,this system has been around for 8 years.I would think they would know how to work it by now.

The mechanic probably installed the right side cam backwards the first time.
There is most likely no damage caused to your bike.
I would watch the belt for a few hundred miles for any chipping or fraying,and of course the tension.
If it looks OK in a few hundred miles,I wouldn't worry anymore.
 
#21 ·
yes thats what i said to the dealer !

other side has the cover on it and dont want to pull the exhaust and shock bolt got no lift anyhow !

at least i know its the right way up! else someone would have said by now !
 
#23 ·
nfn,

My 2 cents... I did my own rear wheel change and I also had issues keeping the belt at the proper adjustment. It took me several tries to keep the right adjustment for the belt to stay put and it's a p.i.t.a. because you need to torque the right side nut, which is next to the muffler. I believe why my axle cams would 'self-adjust' after a few rides is due to grease on them.

Just a thought/question for all the real mechanics...
couldn't we make things easier if we torque the left (stationary nut) using the 'high end' of the torque spec while holding the right nut stationary with a crescent wrench?
 
#24 ·
cboahd Just a thought/question for all the real mechanics... couldn't we make things easier if we torque the left (stationary nut) using the 'high end' of the torque spec while holding the right nut stationary with a crescent wrench?[/QUOTE said:
Number 1 reason is because of the early bikes with the stepped axle.
On the newer style,the cam would have to be cut and welded,but then for those that don't run the aftermarket covers you would have to remove the top muffler to get the axle out.
 
#25 ·
i agree !

tyre change 3 mile ride = loose belt i.e no tension at all !

adjustment done again = hard ride 60odd miles = belt in tension just but on limit of belt guard marks

job done again blamed grease and P.I.T.A to do, marked cam to be safe = 80 mile hard ride plenty of power pulls and cam not moved.

just hope it stays like this !

they have it next friday for 10k service , VH comp install , VH feuler re-programme , and buckeye fork sleeve install.

(chickened out of fitting the exhaust ! and the sleeve's)

from Aug (after warranty) its being serviced etc.. by independant HD guy who has just set up in my town who i have been told is very good ! and half the labour costs !

but i do intend to buy the service book and get a lift and try the simple stuff myself i'm eager to learn hence all the above !

thanks guys for your input its so frustrating when you don't know what the score is, and its on your mind all the time !
 
#28 ·
nfn,

Buying the Service Book and Parts Book along with a bike lift will be a great investment and will save you a bunch of money. Also, you know it will be done correctly by asking any question(s) to the wonderful people here at 1130cc.com.They have saved me my hard earned dollars and helped in building my confidence and knowledge base in fixing/maintaining my V-Rod many of times. :notworth:
 
#26 ·
ElrodontheV-Rod,

Not to mess with the axle configuration, just to torque...Are the newer model v-rods axles built different than the 2003? Just looking for an easier way to torque the axle if someone didn't have a crows foot for the right (un-welded nut) side due to the exhaust in the way.

Corrected my previous post I should of said in my first paragraph...torque the "Right side"
 
#27 ·
I do not recommend anyone to do this,but I have never used a torque wrench on my v-rod axles,nor on anyone else's that I have worked on.I own several style and brands of toque wrenches too.I aint sayin that I have a meter built into my arms,but I can feel when I have the nut(s) tight enough.I can look at the size and design of a bolt,what it's purpose is and come within a few inch lbs of it's value.I honestly torque hundreds of assorted bolts each week and have become very familiar w them.I once worked at a company for a few years where we used hydraulic torque wrenches.Each and every bolt was marked and documented on a check sheet by the journeyman and the helper.Then national testing would random check them before the vehicle could pass this stage of certification.


The 02 through (I think) late 04 V-Rod rear axles were stepped to .750 at the end where they fit through the caliper and the swingarm.The later models are 1 inch all the way down.I've been told this was done to keep what little flex is in the first design swing arms down to a closer minimum.
The larger axles have a higher torque value.
 
#30 ·
Torque should be 150 ft//lbs. there should be a concentric cam on each side of the axle. Both should be butted up against the swing arm before tightening to 150 ft/lbs. At 150 ft/lbs and the cams in place that axle will not move. Get another Dealer to work on your bike like Al said.
 
#31 ·
Loose Adjuster



I just did my 3rd rear tire swap this week and lathered too much anti-seize on the axle and apparently on the cams. I've pulled it apart and cleaned the surfaces (flat sides and the cam lobes as well as the swing arm landing zone) and while it lasts for a couple of more shifts, the adjuster is still loosening and that's with over-torquing the nut. I guess I'll pull the axle out a bit and re-clean the surfaces and give that a shot.

Anyone else had this issue since this thread was active in 2010?
 
#32 ·
Just a quick update; my first cleaning of parts was with PB Blaster followed by Acetone. This time I took the time to find my carb cleaner and shot the parts with that. After they were good and dry, i applied blue locktite to the flat surfaces of the cam lobes and to the mating surfaces on the swing arm. That did the trick. I'll be carrying my 35 and 36 mm open end wrenches for a few runs, just in case!
 
#34 ·
CNB, Make sure that the axle has plenty of Anti-Seize or it will rust up and anneal itself to the swing arm.
Also, you mention 35 36 MM open end wrenches. Hope that is not what you are using to torque the nuts down. I don't believe you can get 150 ft/lbs of torque from a open end wrench.
 
#35 ·
If you can twist the belt 90 degrees it is too loose. Set it by applying a measured ten pounds of pressure. Deflection should be no more than 8mm unless you have an R, in which case deflection is 10 mm. Set properly there is not enough deflection available to twist the belt 90 degrees.
 
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