http://www.1130cc.com/forums/ Good place for information about failures, leaks, and other mechanical issues. en Thu, 09 Sep 2010 03:14:50 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/images/1130cc/misc/rss.jpg http://www.1130cc.com/forums/ http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143053&goto=newpost Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:02:07 GMT For a couple of days now, my bike (completely stock 09 vrscdx) has been spitting out some error codes every time I really give it some gas. i have to leave it WOT or running in hard or a few seconds (hit at least 95 or be climing a decent hill). Every time I do, it throws 3 codes - P0261, P0263... For a couple of days now, my bike (completely stock 09 vrscdx) has been spitting out some error codes every time I really give it some gas. i have to leave it WOT or running in hard or a few seconds (hit at least 95 or be climing a decent hill). Every time I do, it throws 3 codes - P0261, P0263 (f/r injectors open/low) and P1481 (fan output open/low). It's got plenty or warranty left, but stealer said it will be a week or so before they can get to it, and didn't want to take it in if there was an easy fix. Any ideas? ]]> V-ROD Mechanical just_jeff http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143053 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142990&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 17:35:25 GMT I'm looking for some help. I had my bike on a tender for a month where it was not ridden. I come back and try to fire the bike up however the console continuously flashes and the bike will not start. I pushed started it and it worked however there was some sparks flyin out of the pipes. The bike sounds soft rather than the deep sound thunders usually give. I turned it off and tried restarting however again it will not start. It makes the clicking sound but thats it.

Does anyone know what I can do to fix? I'm thinking a battery prob however it was on a tender.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions. ]]> V-ROD Mechanical rcgarcia01 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142990 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142965&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:03:47 GMT Greetings all, I am doing my first oil change on the 2009 VRSCAW. I presumed that under the oil drain plug would be some kind of gasket or crush washer. I checked the drain pan, on the plug and on the floor.... no gasket or washer to be found. I then looked in the parts book that I have and... Greetings all,

I am doing my first oil change on the 2009 VRSCAW. I presumed that under the oil drain plug would be some kind of gasket or crush washer. I checked the drain pan, on the plug and on the floor.... no gasket or washer to be found.

I then looked in the parts book that I have and no gasket or washer.... :deal: that book has been wrong before though.

Is this correct, that the oil drain plug does NOT use a gasket ??

Thanks ]]> V-ROD Mechanical fuzzyjet http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142965 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142950&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 19:06:57 GMT Unfortunately I live in a congested city and end up riding around very slowly using the clutch, as anyone else does, to control the drive. The clutch on the VRSCD is quite heavy after a while and I was wondering if anyone knows of any 'kits' to make the actuation operation lighter? ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Brabazon http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142950 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142941&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 15:53:31 GMT So yesterday I'm headed out for a ride with some of my friends. We meet up at our usual restaurant for breakfast before heading out. As I pull into the driveway, the bike backfires like a mother under decel. So all I can think of is another issue with the Thundermax, because it's at about the right mileage where it starts to autotune itself into a state of disarray. So I bail on the ride and head back to my house (about 10-12 miles away) to reload the map and maybe even turn the autotune off. It backfires on decel the whole way home.

While I'm letting the bike cool off and getting my laptop out to the garage, I decide to check the bike over. The bolts on the rear exhaust manifold have backed off to the point they are loose enough to fall off, which really pisses me off because I check them periodically. So I tighten them back up, and load up the Tmax software. It has "historical REAR EGO" diagnostic codes - no surprise there since the air ratio was WACK going across the rear O2 sensor, and I'm sure the autotune was dumping fuel into the rear cylinder causing the decel pops. I reloaded the basemap to get rid of the shit settings it had for the rear cylinder.

My question - is there a chance I a) burned the exhaust valves on the rear cylinder, and/or b) scored the rear cylinder from all the fuel that was dumped into it? ]]> V-ROD Mechanical soccercoach61 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142941 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142902&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 20:18:54 GMT I ordered from Zanotti's HD a new ignition switch and they wrote me for the key #.
Where can i find that?
and what is it ]]> V-ROD Mechanical santeg http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142902 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142889&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:39:44 GMT Sorry for the inconvenaice ... This post to be deleted ... Sorry for the inconvenaice ...
This post to be deleted ... ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Moe CBF http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142889 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142868&goto=newpost Fri, 03 Sep 2010 20:09:37 GMT So I recently (last week or so) discovered oil under the bike (04 vrsca 5800 miles) While looking around I discovered the rubber hose coming off the top of the rear part of the engine had come off. I put it back in its original position and tightened the clamp back down. Well its now a week... So I recently (last week or so) discovered oil under the bike (04 vrsca 5800 miles) While looking around I discovered the rubber hose coming off the top of the rear part of the engine had come off. I put it back in its original position and tightened the clamp back down.

Well its now a week later, The hose has stayed in its position and doesn't appear to be leaking, however I Have as much if not more oil all over the engine after I ride it.

My question is, does the air box get removed when someone is installing a powercommander on the bike, I had that work done about 2 1/2 weeks ago. It seemed like this problem started right after that. Also if the hose is now attached on the back, and the one on the front seems to be in the correct place, why am I still getting oil? And help would be great. thanks ]]> V-ROD Mechanical F00tball48 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142868 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142867&goto=newpost Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:48:37 GMT I'm in the central valley of northern CA and am looking for a good shop, (either HD or HD authorized indy), to perform my third fuel sending unit replacement.

The latest and greatest 2011 unit is "redesigned" unlike the previous 3 fixes which have proven to be snake oil.
It would be nice to have a 100% functioning fuel gauge, so I'm willing to travel anywhere from Monterey to San Francisco. Thanks! ]]> V-ROD Mechanical AOW http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142867 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142783&goto=newpost Thu, 02 Sep 2010 00:59:02 GMT hi guys my 03 is starting to have the fuel flange issue . i have searched here for the fix but cant seem to find it. i have some mods but i dont think thats my issue as the bike ran fine untill i ran it low on gas last week and then all the warning lights lit up and the fuel gauge wnt up from 1/8 a... hi guys my 03 is starting to have the fuel flange issue . i have searched here for the fix but cant seem to find it. i have some mods but i dont think thats my issue as the bike ran fine untill i ran it low on gas last week and then all the warning lights lit up and the fuel gauge wnt up from 1/8 a tank to 3/4 . i filled up and the lights went out and the gauge seems ok but the sputtering started at around 4000 rpm. can someone send me a link to the fuel flange fix or is this covered as a recall by hd. thanks guys you have all been a great help so far . oh yeah bike has a retro fit fuel moto pcv ,v mod stock pipes and k&n filter ]]> V-ROD Mechanical prostreet440 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142783 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142775&goto=newpost Wed, 01 Sep 2010 22:38:06 GMT Just thought I'd pass this on to everyone. I know tire prices have come down, but this is by far the cheapest I've ever seen.

FYI, these are for 200/55R-18 sized tires:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...184937&ref=gmc

Promo code: RMCS20 (20% off entire order) ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Beef_Weezle http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142775 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142725&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Aug 2010 23:43:56 GMT Does it fit fit the stock disk wheel as well? I have a brand new one and it won't fit over the lip on the stock wheel after the wheel was chromed. did'nt think to try it beforehand. Wondering if the tolerences are tight enough that The chrome is interfering. Rotor won't go on either, I'm going to have to take a little off there as well. Also, anybody have a stock bowl they can give me the measurements from? Specifically, the thickness, and the id of the machined surface that mates to the wheel.Worse comes to worse, I'll take it to work and chuck it in a lathe.
Ed ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Z16monte http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142725 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142710&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:29:55 GMT My plugs were way overdue for attention, and the battery was knackered. For anyone else new to V-Rod servicing, here is what I learned: The clip that holds the pipe to the back of the airbox is MUCH easier to remove if you pull the coolant header tank off its grommets. The gasket under the... My plugs were way overdue for attention, and the battery was knackered. For anyone else new to V-Rod servicing, here is what I learned:

The clip that holds the pipe to the back of the airbox is MUCH easier to remove if you pull the coolant header tank off its grommets.

The gasket under the airbox is fragile. Have a spare and be careful with the duct tape used to close the throttle bodies.

If you have things bolted to the front of the airbox (Arnott compressor for example), re-fit before you bolt the airbox down.

The battery connector has some sort of weird rise. If you buy a non Harley battery you will need to re-create this somehow. My battery shop supplied pre-done.

Bolt the terminals on the battery before bolting the airbox down. Very hard to get at otherwise.

If you don't manage to pull the front coil assembly out vertically (hard to get your hand in properly) the boot is left behind. And that is a REAL PITA to get out.

The way most people mess this job up is failing to get the front breather tube on the airbox. You can see it fine, just be aware of it.

More generally:

After 20K with a good map my plugs were perfect. As good as new. Inspecting / replacing them was a total waste of time. NGK DCPR8E is the equivalent if you have no local Harley parts supplier. Avoid irridum, they may work fine, they may naff up the ion sensor (so they say).

Having done all this once, I could easily and quickly do it again. This first time was plain nasty though. If you don't do high miles, don't plan to keep the bike forever and have a decent stealer I would give it to them rather than climb this learning curve, because you'll probably only ever do it the one time before you pass the bike on. ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Louis http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142710 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142696&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Aug 2010 02:48:08 GMT I posted earlier that my brake pedal was sticking and keeping the pads engaged on the rotor. I tried lube on the master cylinder and pulled the pedal off and lubed it. Having never taken it off before I overlooked how difficult it was to separate the pedal with the plastic bushing from the footpeg... I posted earlier that my brake pedal was sticking and keeping the pads engaged on the rotor. I tried lube on the master cylinder and pulled the pedal off and lubed it. Having never taken it off before I overlooked how difficult it was to separate the pedal with the plastic bushing from the footpeg shaft. Well the lube did nothing so I took it off again and realized that the plastic bushing was too tight to allow the pedal to spring back. I rolled up some 240 sand-paper and spent 30 minutes sanding the plastic bushing with some results but I also realized the sand-paper was removing more material from the ends than evenly. When I looked inside I could still see the black wear patern form the metal shaft in the center near the groove. Broke out the dremel and popped in a sand-paper drum and reached inside and removed all of the black wear as evenly as I could. I greased it and slipped it back on with ease and the problem is gone. I didn't realize how hard it was to apply the break until the repair. now it works great and has no play in the pedal. I am slowly eliminating a lot of little pita problems that came with this bike but it is very rewarding. next task is the slipper clutch since my oem is beginning to slip. ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Fatboy2V-rod http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142696 http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142669&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:15:27 GMT Tomorrow i'm going to the tireshop to have my new Avon Cobra rear tire installed.Went down to the garage this afternoon and when inspecting the rear rim i found out that the rear wheel bearing on the left(pulley sprocket) side is totally ruined and needs replacement.

Is it a pita job to take out the old bearings and install the new ones? Any advice? I do not have access to any HD special tool,but almost any other tool... How do i do it?

And btw.... What is the dimentions of the rear wheel bearings. I have read some place that the size is 1" inner,52 milimeter outer and 15 milimeter width and can use other bearings than the overpriced HD originals.Is this correct? ]]> V-ROD Mechanical Schumacher http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142669