Well I've been kicking the idea around since I bought the bike, now I'm deadly serious about it. I'd like to hear some thoughts from those with the bigbore kits. Since we're never getting a turbo kit that will be for the street and the suoerchargers can't stay together, just makes sense that the bigbore is proven and a winner. :helpme:

I dont have a BB kit but to me it would not be worth it unless you race. And Im all about needing more power. You hear the BB gets you in the high 130's to the 140's well if you really look at it you are paying 5-7k for 15 to 20 hp. Kaz has shown us how to get in the 120's with just pipes and RT. That first extra 15 hp cost you just over 1k so think about it. people who race will need all the extra they can get and you get it where ever you can at what ever the cost. I want more power but I think I will wait for something better to come out.

I remember seeing a rumor that there might be a factory BB kit that requires minimal / No machining and comes in under $3000 INSTALLED. At that price it's very attractive. Spending $5000 - $7000 for a big bore kit or anything that's only going to net 30 HP (25%) isn't too smart IMHO.

Other than quantity there's no reason you couldn't produce a BB kit for the Revo motor for $1500. Add the machining (if needed) and labor and you should be comfortably under $3000.

For this level of performance increase I would set a $3000 price ceiling.

I remember seeing a rumor that there might be a factory BB kit that requires minimal / No machining and comes in under $3000 INSTALLED. At that price it's very attractive. Spending $5000 - $7000 for a big bore kit or anything that's only going to net 30 HP (25%) isn't too smart IMHO.

Other than quantity there's no reason you couldn't produce a BB kit for the Revo motor for $1500. Add the machining (if needed) and labor and you should be comfortably under $3000.

For this level of performance increase I would set a $3000 price ceiling.
Just ignore me I haven't slept in a while and I can't remember what day it is.

I've found an even better deal, BB 1mm Over, 12.5-1, Cams, head porting, for under $1500

Who is this with/from & what does it gain you hp & torque??? I'm interested... :mrgr:

Who is this with/from & what does it gain you hp & torque??? I'm interested... :mrgr:
RICK,
YOUR QUOTING DEALER COST'S ON PARTS NO LABOR. DON''T FORGET
BORING THE CASE HALF. :hmm:

RICK,
YOUR QUOTING DEALER COST'S ON PARTS NO LABOR. DON''T FORGET
BORING THE CASE HALF. :hmm:
Rick,
Thats was an Off the Top of the Head"Sam's" Price thats was Not sat down and Figured out!Sorry Bro but it's Gonna Cost a Little Bit More then That! Ask Rick the amount of Time and cost of Parts and Machine work.It's Not cheap No Matter What!

:spank:Kaz and I

Based on what's published here's the current price breakdown

Wiseco 1320 "kit" $954
Precision case machining $966
WebCam cams $638
Labor ???? Guess = $750
Misc parts = $200
Tuning = $400 (estimate)

TOTAL = $3908

My guess is as more are done things like the cams and the tuning will drop bringing the price near my $3000 target. You could also probably get away without the cams if you wanted to save some cash.

Thank you sir, I'll can always count on you for the numbers. BTW the stuff I posted before, I forgot the labor, how stupid of me. So the numbers are just like yours. Thanks oh great one. :notworth:

$3900 for a big bore!!!!! They can keep that baby, I'm no where near interested at that kinda money.

$3900 for a big bore!!!!! They can keep that baby, I'm no where near interested at that kinda money.
Labor to Pull the Motor,disassemble and put it all back together running is a LITTLE MORE then 10 hrs Mark! :whack: It's 5k for a Street Motor 7K for a Race Motor DONE RIGHT!Your fogetting allot of stuff to do it Right"Clutch,Pipe,Tuner,Throttle Body,Injectors,etc.You want it HALFASS Spend your 3 or 4k I think I know what I'm talking about ,but what the Hell do I really Know? :rolleyes:

$3900 for a big bore!!!!! They can keep that baby, I'm no where near interested at that kinda money.
Keep this in mind, you can get upto 20-40 horsepower. I've done the math before and it goes like this, the bike starts with lets say 104rwhp, you spend $650 for an exhaust system give or take, $320 for a Powercommander and $60 for a SE air filter. Roughly $1000 for this whole setup. You get 114rwhp, so 10 horsepower for $1000, follow the math. 104hp+10hp=$1000, 104hp+40hp=144hp=$4000. So when you really crunch the numbers it comes down to $100 for every hp, unless you do the throttle in a bottle. Plus you have the power 24/7, not filling up bottles, no turbo lag, no blower or additional weight. Does this make sense to the rest of you, I just threw this together. Tell me if I'm wrong, Mark, please input on this.

Well I might get flamed for this but... do the head work,cams,TB,RT clutch,exhaust and forget the big bore! You save about $2000 in parts and labor,what would this yeld in torque and HP?

Well I might get flamed for this but... do the head work,cams,TB,RT clutch,exhaust and forget the big bore! You save about $2000 in parts and labor,what would this yeld in torque and HP?

I was thinking the same thing, probably won't gain a whole lot. Maybe in the 120hp range, which would be in line with the $100/hp estimate. Damn, nothing is inexpensive... :broke: :whack:

I was thinking the same thing, probably won't gain a whole lot. Maybe in the 120hp range, which would be in line with the $100/hp estimate. Damn, nothing is inexpensive... :broke: :whack:
The first 10 hp is easy but the Next 10 and the 10 after that get allot Harder and More expensive!It's Not Liniear.A cheaper"maybe not"way of gain performance would be to Lighten the Bike!If you could take 100lbs OFF the Bike for $? What would that be = to in RWHP? :lamer: ;) :kaz:

In acceleration about 15 to 20vHP... (.4 to .5 ET) by my cyphering - Racing wheels and light exhaust good for40 lbs.

Doing all those things won't net you as much horsepower if you did the Big Bore. There are going to be many new and exciting options to the bigbore kits. There is more than one way to skin a cat :kaz:

MJW:

It's not the kit that costs you the money it's the machining of the cases to get the larger bore cylinders PLUS R&R of the motor, tear down and rebuild with the new stuff AND DYONO RUNS along with the race tuner or PC USB of your choice. Changes after the case machining would be more realistic since the motor doesn't have to come completely down (Different cams, reworked heads modified fuel injectors--etc.

The parts cost is in the $3,000 range but then so is the labor with today's rates.

I said the labor was a ????? and I'm not talking about all the ancillary stuff because IMHO is not neccessary if you're looking to build a basic reliable street BB V-Rod. Not everyone is going to spend twice the money to get that last 5 hp. A reliable BB motor making 140 - 150 can be built without radical cams, trick throttle bodies and monster injectors. I was also assuming the person already had their proper pipes. Forget what Sam's charging you, what's the book say for billable hours to rebuild the Revolution motor?

I said the labor was a ????? and I'm not talking about all the ancillary stuff because IMHO is not neccessary if you're looking to build a basic reliable street BB V-Rod. Not everyone is going to spend twice the money to get that last 5 hp. A reliable BB motor making 140 - 150 can be built without radical cams, trick throttle bodies and monster injectors. I was also assuming the person already had their proper pipes. Forget what Sam's charging you, what's the book say for billable hours to rebuild the Revolution motor?


THE FACTORY FLAT RATE IS 11 HOURS,WE TIMES IT BY 1.25 = 13.75 HRS.
INCLUDES REMOVAL AND REINSTALL. IN MY EST. YOU WON'T MAKE THAT
KIND OF H.P. WITH OUT HEAD,VALVE WORK,AND THROTLE BODYS. :(

THE FACTORY FLAT RATE IS 11 HOURS,WE TIMES IT BY 1.25 = 13.75 HRS.
INCLUDES REMOVAL AND REINSTALL. IN MY EST. YOU WON'T MAKE THAT
KIND OF H.P. WITH OUT HEAD,VALVE WORK,AND THROTLE BODYS. :(

I'll defer to those who know and have done it as to the final HP numbers, I just threw those out. ;)

What would be a reasonable out of the box number for a basic BB install assuming the tune was right? Let's say you were at an honest 110 RWHP before the kit. If you installed the kit and proper cams, had a good pipe and put a good tune on it what could you expect? 130 - 135 RWHP????? How much more with throttle bodies and head work? 135 - 140????

I'll defer to those who know and have done it as to the final HP numbers, I just threw those out. ;)

What would be a reasonable out of the box number for a basic BB install assuming the tune was right? Let's say you were at an honest 110 RWHP before the kit. If you installed the kit and proper cams, had a good pipe and put a good tune on it what could you expect? 130 - 135 RWHP????? How much more with throttle bodies and head work? 135 - 140????

132 RWHP. HEAD WORK AND CAMS TO MATCH,WITH THROTLE BODYS
145-150 RWHP. (ALLREADY DONE BOTH.)THATS AT 4400 FT. DENSITY
ALTITUDE.ABOUT TEN H.P. MORE AT LOWER ALT.LATER IN THE YEAR
I WILL DYNO AT 1000 TO 1500 FT. SEE IF THE NUMBERS MATCH.

I dont have a BB kit but to me it would not be worth it unless you race. And Im all about needing more power. You hear the BB gets you in the high 130's to the 140's well if you really look at it you are paying 5-7k for 15 to 20 hp. Kaz has shown us how to get in the 120's with just pipes and RT. That first extra 15 hp cost you just over 1k so think about it. people who race will need all the extra they can get and you get it where ever you can at what ever the cost. I want more power but I think I will wait for something better to come out.

What kind of pipes get you into the 120's with a race tuner?

If I remember Kaz use to tell us 122 with his setup

If I remember Kaz use to tell us 122 with his setup

What kind of pipes?

What kind of pipes?
He did that with Supertrapps and special gas.But you can get more with the Turbotecs.

If I remember correctly,JamieMac said you need to get more airflow to the engine.Head porting and larger TB's.good for 9-14hp.and you can leave the valve sizes alone.(stock motor).But if you were gonna go BB and/or stroker you'll need the larger valves.
Any "GOOD" pipe,and tuner should get you very close to 130hp if not a little more.
Add in a mild cam 135hp easy.
Then go with the BB(machinless sleeves) and you'll see close to 150hp.

All it takes is cubic bucks. :)

What kind of pipes get you into the 120's with a race tuner?

:offtopic:

I don't think there's a pipe / tune combination that's going to get you into the 120's on a legit dyno.

Forget about the absolute number, go for the highest % gain. If you really want to know the improvement your mods make you MUST get your bike dynoed before you make any mods to use as a baseline. If you can squeeze 15% out of a pipe, air filter and a tune then you've done all you're going to do. Of course if your dyno says your stock V-Rod makes 110 then you're easily into the 120's :rolleyes:

Unless you are racing the bike or have some inane desire to win at bench racing (number envy) then choose the pipe from this list that's the most appealing to your eyes and ears and get a good tune using any of the available EFI tuning systems. They are all within 1% in ultimate output with the proper tune: (they are listed in what I consider the best order, YMMV ;) )

Joker
TurboTec
SuperTrapp
D&D full system

If you really MUST get into the 120's take one of these pipes, add a set of cams and get your throttle bodies blueprinted. Then you'll be "in the ballpark"

120+ ON Pump gas will not happen with the Stock cams!With OXYGENATED Race Gas $18.00 Gallon good for 3-4 rwhp.I made 118.9 with same combo on pump gas 122.4 on the Race Gas!Thats was with allot of Dyno Time and the Owner of Techlusion doing the Tuning!I Think with a Great Tuner on a RT with some TT's and Topless,K&N you could get Pretty Dam Close,but I don't think with out a Ton of Time Testing and Tunning your breaking 120rwhp with a stock motor! :2cents:


P.S There are No small under 1400+cc Motors making 140-150rwhp with out Spending 7k++++++!

I made 122 on a happy dyno, so I was told. Pump gas most I've mustered up was 118.7

:offtopic:

I don't think there's a pipe / tune combination that's going to get you into the 120's on a legit dyno.


If you are to do a Big Bore? Do they provide the EFI map? I don't have a tuner, YET! But running out of options quick.

Vinny! I have to disagree on the hp issue. A jump to 130 does not seem conceivable with just pipe and tune. The 120 story is very hard to handle or I have a lemon V-Rod. Certainly it's the US version with non of the lesser horsies documented at a baseline stock setup (dynojet) for whatever that's worth and the VIN should not lie, moreover it behaves too good on the street with the crappy 16ga map, bit better with my modifications seat of the pants I'd like to believe.

The quote: I don't think THAT so hard to figure out with the evidence at hand and Mark repeating himself. I'd guess Mark is now just cutting and pasting this here so as not to retype for the gzillionth time. AND I'd bet this is the face :rolleyes: . GIVE ME A BREAK! Some time ago I had close to 120 (118 or so) (dynojet) and I did nothing to it when the one before that gave me 115 (dynojet) or so whatever, before that it was even lower at 111 (proflow) and I did nothing to it. Now I'm back to 111hp (dynojet), no tune yet. I don't keep count anymore. I just wanna go there run a baseline, tune, see what happens. Those numbers are just the same baseline setup. Get it ;) ? Oh! The irony! There's another one in between I don't wanna go get. It's not worth it, no science. I'm starting to believe it's all a joke really. This last one guy at Manso's (the shop) called Marcos just did the baseline, my brother forgot to bring him the cables so he just dismissed it as done with just a baseline run. There's just one other dyno in the whole fricking island and I'm trying it if Marcos is not interested :rolleyes: , which would mean the same - can do PCIII cannot understand RT - I'm offering this guy $100 per hp, $10 per 0.1 hp, I have no other choice, have to try. If cannot get a reliable tuner I cannot do a big bore or keep on going with whatever, meaning I'm done if I cannot dyno tune a frigging pipe. The option without the pistons sounds good if it works. If I cannot get a tune with the RT then the PCIII has to be an option or at least a try it thing I guess. Rick, if you can, just do it man. There are good tuners in Cali and you know your stuff huh?

It seems we get away from why we ride Harleys... Class seperation, Good old American Culture, and hey...the feel.
Lets Face it if you really want to fly, Harley is not the way to go. Look at the crankshaft connecting rod construction. This engine was oiginally designed for toque. It is inherently imbalenced crank rod design... I ride the V-Rod to have the best mix of Rice grinder and Cruiser while having the class of a true ride...Harley Davidson.
Ride the Harley for the class and enjoyment. The V-Rod still Doesn't have the original "Potato" sound and feel of the V-Twin. It does however have the perfect mix of Hot Rod and Cruiser.
So after blowing so much wind out of my mouth.... WHY Big Bore for a Street Ride at that cost? Cruise and be cool. :chair:

Randy:

Why Big Bore?? To get the "Potato" sound of course!!!!

Randy have you seen the vrod rotating asembly?

As the "Old" hot rod guys used to say,
"There's no substitute for Cubic Inches"

2 dumb questions ,, do the Vrods have sleeves OEM , and why would it be anymore complicated than sleeving a V-8 ?

As the "Old" hot rod guys used to say,
"There's no substitute for Cubic Inches"


I agree. If you want torque...you aint gonna get what you need without it costing you in the high end unless you make it biga. My BB will be installed during the next 4 weeks. I will dyno it before and after and keep you posted. My plan: 04 vrscb, topless, pcrIII, D&D 2-1 full system,zippers stage 2 head work(oversized valves,cnc), 58mm TB, bigger stacks, replace intake cam with 05 vrscse cams...( "cam timing changed")
What do you all think.

I agree. If you want torque...you aint gonna get what you need without it costing you in the high end unless you make it biga. My BB will be installed during the next 4 weeks. I will dyno it before and after and keep you posted. My plan: 04 vrscb, topless, pcrIII, D&D 2-1 full system,zippers stage 2 head work(oversized valves,cnc), 58mm TB, bigger stacks, replace intake cam with 05 vrscse cams...( "cam timing changed")
What do you all think.

I think that's going to be a bada$$ engine! I curious, why did you choose the SE cams instead of some other?
Keep us updated on the ballpark cost also.
Thanks :thumb:

New plan for me is to Big Bore lower the compression and add 20 pounds of boost via the turbocharger

compression is your friend for good 60's ,, or are you talking a street bike ?

compression is your friend for good 60's ,, or are you talking a street bike ?
I'm not going to the 8.5:1 I was thinking more like 9.5:1

with good fuel , and a boost triggered retard the 12.5 would be perfect ,, just my .02

I think that's going to be a bada$$ engine! I curious, why did you choose the SE cams instead of some other?
Keep us updated on the ballpark cost also.
Thanks :thumb:

I did not want to change the torque curve/, HP curve, or idle. I also do not want to decrease reliability (se cams should have same lift, but have different timing) I would HATE to lose low end torque....and thay are 160 bucks... We will see you they work.

I did not want to change the torque curve/, HP curve, or idle. I also do not want to decrease reliability (se cams should have same lift, but have different timing) I would HATE to lose low end torque....and thay are 160 bucks... We will see you they work.
You can just slot your sprockets and change your timing without buying anything if your wanting to save money

This is off of the v-mod web site for the 1550 bore kit:
Get huge mid-range torque while adding top-end horsepower for your Harley V-Rod. This kit includes our new Billet Custom Stroke(tm) Crank kit, 1/2" longer than stock. Our first client reported well over 180 HP on his dynojet! The Falicon Billet Crank is an innovative full-circle design, and is more aerodynamic (reducing drag) which puts more power to the ground. Also available are lightweight Titanium Rods, which reduce reciprocating weight for faster acceleration. The Big Bore kit also includes big-bore pistons, sleeves and related components. To install the kit, you must bore your cylinder to accept the sleeves and trim the piston oil cooling jet by machining about 1/4 off the jet, welding the hole that will appear, and drilling a small hole in the remaining boss to squirt the oil. V-MOD CAN PERFORM THE COMPLETE INSTALL AND TUNE AT REASONABLE PRICES. WE RECOMMEND CAM AND VALVE WORK. PLEASE CALL FOR A QUOTE $4,657.00 but that does not include labor I would think. My teachers always said that to go fast you have to spend fast.

This is off of the v-mod web site for the 1550 bore kit:
Get huge mid-range torque while adding top-end horsepower for your Harley V-Rod. This kit includes our new Billet Custom Stroke(tm) Crank kit, 1/2" longer than stock. Our first client reported well over 180 HP on his dynojet! The Falicon Billet Crank is an innovative full-circle design, and is more aerodynamic (reducing drag) which puts more power to the ground. Also available are lightweight Titanium Rods, which reduce reciprocating weight for faster acceleration. The Big Bore kit also includes big-bore pistons, sleeves and related components. To install the kit, you must bore your cylinder to accept the sleeves and trim the piston oil cooling jet by machining about 1/4 off the jet, welding the hole that will appear, and drilling a small hole in the remaining boss to squirt the oil. V-MOD CAN PERFORM THE COMPLETE INSTALL AND TUNE AT REASONABLE PRICES. WE RECOMMEND CAM AND VALVE WORK. PLEASE CALL FOR A QUOTE $4,657.00 but that does not include labor I would think. My teachers always said that to go fast you have to spend fast.

Egg-zachary Grasshopper! How fast you wanna go? = How much you wanna spend? "Thank you for your order...Please drive thru."

Jack, The Stock engine uses a "Wet Sleeve" . The Machining process is a bit more involved then just dropping sleeves in.

Steve, on stroker motors, does this mean clearance for the rods and crank to swing?

thanks Steve ,, same as big bore and sleeve a 2 stroke ,, or bore and sleeve a V-8

This is off of the v-mod web site for the 1550 bore kit:
Get huge mid-range torque while adding top-end horsepower for your Harley V-Rod. This kit includes our new Billet Custom Stroke(tm) Crank kit, 1/2" longer than stock. Our first client reported well over 180 HP on his dynojet! The Falicon Billet Crank is an innovative full-circle design, and is more aerodynamic (reducing drag) which puts more power to the ground. Also available are lightweight Titanium Rods, which reduce reciprocating weight for faster acceleration. The Big Bore kit also includes big-bore pistons, sleeves and related components. To install the kit, you must bore your cylinder to accept the sleeves and trim the piston oil cooling jet by machining about 1/4 off the jet, welding the hole that will appear, and drilling a small hole in the remaining boss to squirt the oil. V-MOD CAN PERFORM THE COMPLETE INSTALL AND TUNE AT REASONABLE PRICES. WE RECOMMEND CAM AND VALVE WORK. PLEASE CALL FOR A QUOTE $4,657.00 but that does not include labor I would think. My teachers always said that to go fast you have to spend fast.

where is this "Well over 180rwhp" V-rod????Hows it holding together?Has it been to the Track?Please More info as I have Not heard of any Big Big Street Motors out side of Paul's that have made any REAL POWER !Would l love more info Please. :twisted:

Kaz; Why would you be intimidated by 180hp, your already up to 250hp and miles ahead of the rest. Is this something you should be worried about? I think not. You have the best equipment and best tuner and yet; want to reproach anybody else that tries to build engines. As a the fastest V-Rodder on the planet, I would think you could see the more builders that get involved the cheaper it is going to become for everyone else behind. There is no finish line in trying to build a nice engine. Just a revolution in building a different one! Donald

BTW ...You will be welcome to ride mine when I bring it to Vegas next year! Just try to give it back in one piece!

Kaz; Why would you be intimidated by 180hp, your already up to 250hp and miles ahead of the rest. Is this something you should be worried about? I think not. You have the best equipment and best tuner and yet; want to reproach anybody else that tries to build engines. As a the fastest V-Rodder on the planet, I would think you could see the more builders that get involved the cheaper it is going to become for everyone else behind. There is no finish line in trying to build a nice engine. Just a revolution in building a different one! Donald

BTW ...You will be welcome to ride mine when I bring it to Vegas next year! Just try to give it back in one piece!

I just want a Little Shared info"what combo,tunning ,etc"I think it's GREAT and Would Love to get More Engine Builders involved" Your right it Makes it Cheaper for Me" Donald.I like to consider Myself a V-rod Performance Expert but I surly have allot More to LEARN!I'm always Looking for a Better Mouse Trap and ACTUALLY 'GET OFF' On the Competition :twisted: !I have Tried to Work with Another Engine Builder but he was Too Busy but did share some of His Knowledge but that was for Big Bore Race Motors not Turbo stuff!Sam Terranove has Been Great :plause: and I could Not ask for More"Well I could BUT'' This Pretty new Technology so the info is Pretty Valuable and Nobody seems to want to Share! :wazzup: I hope that in the Future we can all Work a Little Close together Remember were Still on the Same Team 'V-ROD'! :kaz:

I just want a Little Shared info"what combo,tunning ,etc"I think it's GREAT and Would Love to get More Engine Builders involved" Your right it Makes it Cheaper for Me" Donald.I like to consider Myself a V-rod Performance Expert but I surly have allot More to LEARN!I'm always Looking for a Better Mouse Trap and ACTUALLY 'GET OFF' On the Competition :twisted: !I have Tried to Work with Another Engine Builder but he was Too Busy but did share some of His Knowledge but that was for Big Bore Race Motors not Turbo stuff!Sam Terranove has Been Great :plause: and I could Not ask for More"Well I could BUT'' This Pretty new Technology so the info is Pretty Valuable and Nobody seems to want to Share! :wazzup: I hope that in the Future we can all Work a Little Close together Remember were Still on the Same Team 'V-ROD'! :kaz:
Kaz; Very well put! That attitude can only make things better for you and everyone! Sometimes it gets lost in the shuffle. Donald

The "Wet Sleeve" has to have very precise machining because the sleeve has a set of "O" rings around it. This has to be able to slip into the bore without damaging the "O" ring. We know what happens when Anti-freeze and Oil mix. You want to do your setup off of the Crank Shaft center line, not a side cover. As you go down the bore, you have the Flange seat on top, then the Water Jacket relief. This starts out "as cast" and is very inconsistent
in depth. Thats why I believe the Big Bores cool as well as they do. I had a Custamer tell me his big bore idled like a charm while his buddy's over heated and died, while stuck in trafic in Daytona.
Then you have the Seat for the "O" rings, a very critical. The tapper must "Guide" the the rings and seal the water jacket from the crank case proper. Then the final bore for the lower sleeve support. So its 7 "Bores" and 4 tool changes, with two setups.
Not the same as 2-strokes [ no ports to match ] with its straight shot, and interference fit. And those V-8's which have a very nice Sunnen Machine to bore them with, won't work for the V-Rod.
The Crank Case has to be "Relieved" but not the sleeves. Stock rods are way too beefy [ fat ] for a stroker motor.
I don't think this is "New" technology . Stroker Motors have been around a long time. You just have to follow a few rules and everything works together. Some of the major chalanges are Balance Factor [ counter balanced engine, which most race engine builders remove ] Cylinder pressure-crank angle changes. Timing, its all in the Timing.

Steve by removing the balance gears will this affect the longevity of the motor? Could you do this to a street motor ?

Thanks Greg

Yes, you can do it on a stocker, The bike will have a "Buzz" at about 4k. But will rev much quicker. I don't think it will shorten engine life, just step up the loc-tite usage.

Yes, you can do it on a stocker, The bike will have a "Buzz" at about 4k. But will rev much quicker. I don't think it will shorten engine life, just step up the loc-tite usage.

The buzz... is this a stock crank and rods with bb piston? Do you balance this assy? Do you have the same buzz with the stroker setup?

I'm not sure what you do and do not know about Crank Shaft "Balancing" and the function of "Counter Balancers". Please don't take offense, It would take quite a bit of explanation that may not be necessary.
I believe [ correct me if I'm wrong ] that the V-rod is balanced in a much higher ratio than if it were not counter balanced. Consequently, if you remove the counter balancer, you will need a different Balance Factor [ 60% or so ] with stock [ weight] internals. The BB rods and Pistons are actually lighter than the Stock stuff.
I have not noticed or has anyone complained of a "Buzz" with the Big Bore. The stroker [ 1430 ] has a small amount [ very small ] The 1550 has more, but at worse your mirror may get fuzzy.

The reason I ask and I know this is apple and oranges. I build kohler engines for my pulling tractors which some motors have these balance gears. When the gears are removed be it for a puller or a stocker we have to the assy balanced, I'm told Kohler balance at 50%. :blahblah: As for knowing all about the balancing procedure I don’t, I will just tell the guy at the shop what rpm it will be running at. They run smooth and with a few mods these motors are turning twice the rpm that they where built to do.... and smooth... Just trying to understand and thank you for your time. Greg

The Counter Balancer's job is to make up for the lack of weight in the crank journal end[ in relation to the counter weight ] this is called "Secondary Imbalance" When the piston is at TDC that is primary imbalance. The sudden stop at top dead and bottom dead center will cause a huge vibration if we did not use a counter weight. Ideally the counter weight would be exactly heavy enough to put in an oppossing force equall to the piston,rod end mass. this would be 100% balance factor. Unfortunately at 90deg crank rotation we would have a hugley out of balance crank mass. this giant weight trying to go front to back [ secondary imbalance ] in relation to the fairly light rod journal. The Counter balancer steps in here and helps with this situation. Which means you can do a primary balance closer to 100% with the counter balancer as back up. You take the counter out and you will most likely have more vibration [ secondary ] then normal setup. Your crank grinder will most likely change the balance factor [ closer to 60% ]
The reason he what to know what RPM you will be at is to not hit the natural frequency of the crank. this is why some strokers break [ IMHO ]
Hope that helps, there is a lot of physics to get into that maybe some one that types better can get into. I do find this stuff interesting!

Brought bike to dealer today(i know).. dyno at 119 and 75. Hard to believe..it is stock 04 except for DandD 2into1 full system and stage 1 ecm. Top on. :paper: Anyway...BB kit to be installed as soon as I get case back from zippers. I am also using their stage 2 heads (os valves,cnc)BUT am not sure of what cam to go with my baby. Anyone with any ideas. I was thinking of just keeping cams stock or perhaps using the SE intake cams, but I keep getting greedier :diablo: . Zippers has a .5 intake cam...too big? I want to use it on the street. Anyone with first had experience with similar setup? I would appreciate any advice seeing how I gotta make the call in a few weeks. Getting TB bored, going topless, and getting Larger Velocity stacks also. Hopin to burn up my next door neighbor next time we ride!

chopin,

Which dealership dyno'd your rod, HD of NO? or Slidell? Who's doing ur BB assembly work? I'm in Laplace, real interested in how your BB turns out, power/torque output. I want more low/mid torque, BB should be the cure, maybe a 1/4" stroker crank too. I've got a 2002 with a few mods, had mine dyno'd at Raginet's in Houma. We're going to have to hook up one day, share some info, ect.

chopin,

Which dealership dyno'd your rod, HD of NO? or Slidell? Who's doing ur BB assembly work? I'm in Laplace, real interested in how your BB turns out, power/torque output. I want more low/mid torque, BB should be the cure, maybe a 1/4" stroker crank too. I've got a 2002 with a few mods, had mine dyno'd at Raginet's in Houma. We're going to have to hook up one day, share some info, ect.

Northshore HD. They have a chassis dyno...Metairie does not..and west bank..well I dont think they know what a V-Rod is. :rofl2: Robert is doing the work...He SOUNDS confident, but I honestly dont know him. I agree..BB is way to get torque. I hope to get 90s torque and 135HP. That stroker crank sounds nice, but its pricey and I am not sure you can use with wiseco BB??? I would have to call Falicon. That could get messy.
I will keep you posted. God I miss my bike! Been out to Laplace...nice..any good roads out there to cruise?

Look up Eagle HD on the internet, where Paul Denier is. They have a 6mm stroker crank for $890, plus you'd need a pair 6mm shorter of rods I believe. If you want torque, a bit of stroking does wonders in addition to larger bore, and a lot less than a Falicon crank. Takes that 1320cc kit to 1450cc if I remember correct. Paul is very well known for making big HP. Great roads around the Galves area, hwy 22, 42, 16, along the river and the diversion canal. About 25 miles further west from me.

Look up Eagle HD on the internet, where Paul Denier is. They have a 6mm stroker crank for $890, plus you'd need a pair 6mm shorter of rods I believe. If you want torque, a bit of stroking does wonders in addition to larger bore, and a lot less than a Falicon crank. Takes that 1320cc kit to 1450cc if I remember correct. Paul is very well known for making big HP. Great roads around the Galves area, hwy 22, 42, 16, along the river and the diversion canal. About 25 miles further west from me.


FIRST I'LL SELL FORUM MEMBERS CRANKS OR ANY FALICON PARTS CHEAP.
( AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE 20% OVER COST PLUS SHIPPING)
YOU USE STOCK LENGTH RODS AND STROKER PISTONS WITH THE 6MM.
STROKER CRANK. EAGLES STROKER CRANK IS FROM FALICON,STOCK CRANK
STROKED.

Rick, well it sure is good to have you as a member here. BTW, how is the street reliability of the vrod engine with either the 6mm crank, or I believe there is also a 1/2" stroker too, Steve at VMod offers both last time I looked. Is the 6mm a drop in stock cases, or does it require some case clearancing? Are you building big bore/stroked engines yourself? I know you got a bad boy....

Rick, well it sure is good to have you as a member here. BTW, how is the street reliability of the vrod engine with either the 6mm crank, or I believe there is also a 1/2" stroker too, Steve at VMod offers both last time I looked. Is the 6mm a drop in stock cases, or does it require some case clearancing? Are you building big bore/stroked engines yourself? I know you got a bad boy....
I WONT KNOW MYSELF ABOUT THE RELIABILITY OF THE STROKER UNTILL
MY NEW STROKED AND SUPER MODIFIED BALANCED TO 10,000 RPM
CRANK COMES BACK FROM FALICON. THEN I'LL POST AFTER A FEW THOUSAND
MILES.THE 6 MM STROKE DOSENT NEED CLEARANCING THE 1/2 INCH DOES ON
THE PISTON OIL JETS.YES WE BUILD THE MOTORS BUT HAVE THE MACHINING
DONE ELSE WEAR.(EAGLE AND ZIPPERS)

AND IF THATS NOT ENOUGH GOT NOS? HERES PICS.

Hey as one of the members mentioned...Does anyone have a picuture of the V-rod's rotating assmebly? Does the V-rod have the same dual rod design at one crank connection piont as the regular harley engines?

VROD....single crank pin, side by side rod configuration. The air cooled HDs single pin, forked rod arrangement.

I WONT KNOW MYSELF ABOUT THE RELIABILITY OF THE STROKER UNTILL
MY NEW STROKED AND SUPER MODIFIED BALANCED TO 10,000 RPM
CRANK COMES BACK FROM FALICON. THEN I'LL POST AFTER A FEW THOUSAND
MILES.THE 6 MM STROKE DOSENT NEED CLEARANCING THE 1/2 INCH DOES ON
THE PISTON OIL JETS.YES WE BUILD THE MOTORS BUT HAVE THE MACHINING
DONE ELSE WEAR.(EAGLE AND ZIPPERS)

AND IF THATS NOT ENOUGH GOT NOS? HERES PICS.
Hey that Looks Familiar ;) !Better Get a Big Bottle if you want make a Full Pass! :angeldev:

Hey that Looks Familiar ;) !Better Get a Big Bottle if you want make a Full Pass! :angeldev:

Kaz, shouldn't that be "better get a big bottle if you want to blow it up?" :hidesbeh:

Kaz, shouldn't that be "better get a big bottle if you want to blow it up?" :hidesbeh:
No Master P! :slap: The Bottle Pressure Dropps 700lbs from Beginning to end on a Big System"75-100hp' You will be Perfect till about Half Track then it Goes PIG RICH and Falls on it's Face it you don't have enough Nitrous Pressure for the Complete Pass!You can Blow up from a Rich condition Too it's just a Little Harder! :rolleyes:

Rick - are you going to put a progressive controller on that thing..... and what do you have on the stacks - is that a filtering material used when you run? Remember - easy on the NOS - Descretion is the better part of valor....KSP

Rick - are you going to put a progressive controller on that thing..... and what do you have on the stacks - is that a filtering material used when you run? Remember - easy on the NOS - Descretion is the better part of valor....KSP
OK GUYS HERES THE SCOOP,ALLREADY MADE 12 PASSES ON THE BOTTLE.
HENCE THE 10.57 @ 131.23 MPH WITH A BELT DRIVE. IT'S SET UP FOR A
30 H.P. HIT. I CAN MAKE THREE PASSES ON A BOTTLE. I PRE HEAT TO
1050 LBS. OF PRESSURE. THE GO BUTTON IS ON THE CLUTCH SIDE,I'LL POST
A PIC.I LAUNCH THEN HIT THE BUTTON AT 60 FT.AND HANG ON.

What was your baseline without the bottle? Kevin

Look great Rick, what NOS system is that? I couldn't tell from the pics.

Look great Rick, what NOS system is that? I couldn't tell from the pics.
NX SYSTEM.(NITRIOUS EXPRESS H.D.TWIN KIT.)

What was your baseline without the bottle? Kevin
145 H.P. NO BOTTLE.
163 H.P. ON THE BOTTLE. RAN IT A TAD RICH FOR THOSE PASSES.

145 H.P. NO BOTTLE.
163 H.P. ON THE BOTTLE. RAN IT A TAD RICH FOR THOSE PASSES.
Oh Your Just Playin :spank: !Put those Big Jets in and at LEAST BREAK 200RWHP! :eek: :twisted: ;)

Oh Your Just Playin :spank: !Put those Big Jets in and at LEAST BREAK 200RWHP! :eek: :twisted: ;)

"BREAK" being the opperative word! :hidesbeh:

Kaz, Pay close attention to the master at work - systematic incremental gains - that why his program came within one ellimination of a champioship..... Lessons to be learned - KSP

Kaz, Pay close attention to the master at work - systematic incremental gains - that why his program came within one ellimination of a champioship..... Lessons to be learned - KSP
GO BIG OR GO HOME! :sinister:

GO BIG OR GO HOME! :sinister:Ya, go BIG then go home early!

go big with a good package and you can stay the night !

GO BIG OR GO HOME! :sinister:


Kaz, how long has it been since you've ridden one of your 3 vrods? especially your first one with the BIG nitrous?

Kaz, how long has it been since you've ridden one of your 3 vrods? especially your first one with the BIG nitrous?
lets see I pulled the motor and took it with me to Sandy's before Bonneville.Thats was in September.Got to Test and Ride the Turbo Bike a Little before Bonneville but it was straight to the track from the dyno basically! :hmm: Total Mileage on Both bike about 3000 with about 500 them street Miles and the rest Dyno and Racing! The 3rd one is Brand new rolling frame wait for a Motor.I'm Not a Heavy Street Rider and that Probably a Good thing"I CAN'T DRIVE 55 :diablo: !"I do Hope to have a Fairly Stock Daily Drivable Bike for the weekends and for Fun if I ever find a Motor :ride: !

Oh Your Just Playin :spank: !Put those Big Jets in and at LEAST BREAK 200RWHP! :eek: :twisted: ;)
THATS WHY WE ARE RUNNING IT ON THE DRAG BIKE 220 RWHP SHOULD PUT
US IN THE 8.90'S! REMEBER THIS IS MY STREET BIKE WITH 10,000 MILES
AND 163 H.P. ON THE STREET IS MORE THAN ENOUGH.I ALSO HAVE BUMPED
COMP.AND WIESCO RECCOMENED NO MORE THAN 30 H.P.WITH THERE PISTONS.

THATS WHY WE ARE RUNNING IT ON THE DRAG BIKE 220 RWHP SHOULD PUT
US IN THE 8.90'S! REMEBER THIS IS MY STREET BIKE WITH 10,000 MILES
AND 163 H.P. ON THE STREET IS MORE THAN ENOUGH.I ALSO HAVE BUMPED
COMP.AND WIESCO RECCOMENED NO MORE THAN 30 H.P.WITH THERE PISTONS.
ohhhhhhhhh,I THOUGH tHAT WAS THE rACER mY mISTAKE!!!!!!!! :lamer:

Well you do have a bad a$$ collection. HD should sell you a couple revo engines at racer net.

Well you do have a bad a$$ collection. HD should sell you a couple revo engines at racer net.
I've Tried but NO LUCK! :hmm: