Hey guys just thought I'd share this with you, I had a road king not too long ago and I sold it, now I have a v rod...certain things I do miss( my RK had an aftermarket fairing with the tunes!) Anyway, I bought a 12 volt power outlet from a local harware store and hooked it up to the battery using an inline fuse(15 amp) see pic. Now I could charge my cellphone on the go or plug in my GPS if needed.:)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/knightenforcer/CIMG0398.jpg

Cool... I did something similar but ran the wire back to the left saddlebag. Everything's hidden and I can toss my phone in when I'm riding.

I have a second one wired into a tank bag that attaches via a 2 pin Battery Tender type connector under my seat. When I unplug that one and take it off the bike everything disappears too. I use the one in the tank bag on longer trips to charge a spare Garmin RINO battery, charge the phone, and power the XM Radio.

I do miss my radio, What are you using for speakers and how did u mount it?

I use custom molded earplugs that have an audio transducer attached. Sometimes I connect direct to the radio and other times I connect via the Autocom system and incorporate the driver/passenger and bike to bike systems.

The earplugs work great, keeping road noise out. The speaker component is not in the ear but rather downstream with an air-tube into the molded earpiece. They're comfortable for long rides.

I've considered mounting a small amp and some speakers in the tank bag (easily done) but haven't got around to it yet.

Cheers!

cool thanks for the info.

I use custom molded earplugs that have an audio transducer attached. Sometimes I connect direct to the radio and other times I connect via the Autocom system and incorporate the driver/passenger and bike to bike systems.

The earplugs work great, keeping road noise out. The speaker component is not in the ear but rather downstream with an air-tube into the molded earpiece. They're comfortable for long rides.

I've considered mounting a small amp and some speakers in the tank bag (easily done) but haven't got around to it yet.

Cheers!

Someday show us pics of how you've put all that together, please.:)

Hard Bags Are Great, I Also Have A Hog Power Socket Also 12volt It Runs Everthing .

Sorry to bring this thread back alive, but as my Vrod grows into a batwing bagger, I figured I'd update this thread with the a new power port I got from a local auto store. I like the idea I could switch gadgets on and off as needed. (4 ports, each w/ a switch) . It's not waterproof, so if it rains I just turn everything off. This is a good idea if you're running GPS, Ipod etc... for your long trip.
Here's some pics. It's temporarily velcro'ed on top of the clutch assy.
:)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/knightenforcer/CIMG2991.jpg

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http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/knightenforcer/CIMG2992.jpg

Just a word to the wise. Those bricks that charge stuff, like phones and iPods, draw current even when the device isn't attached. (Guess how I know that?).

I have (now) hooked all my stuff to the aux circuit (I tapped into the aux circuit at the fuse box), so the power is on only when the ignition is on. I have two 12V sockets on the batwing, three in the airbox, and one more in the right saddlebag. The airbox has the Garmin 60CS, XMradio and Batwing power plugged into it. The 12V amp for the speakers is wired into the Batwing circuit. The plug in the right saddlebag powers the AutoCom system.

My Gerbing electrics are wired (through a fuse) to the battery (the 2 channel thermostat is in the horn cover).

My tank bag also has a three way 12V socket in it, which I plug into one of the Batwing sockets. I charge the Phone, Camera battery and sometimes a second Garmin (you have to load maps into the 60CS, and I can't put my whole route next week into it, but not the other Garmin, but it doesn't allow downloaded routes) from the tank bag.

Everything is connected to the bike through RadioShack plugs that look like the ones that come with the HD Battery tender. Everything is fused at least once. All electrics, except the Gerbing and one plug, can be removed in about 5 minutes. I have used Gerbing (concentric) connectors in some locations, as when you buy anything from them, you get a harness. I have several. Be careful, however, when using them. Some plugs have the ground on the plug wired to the lead with a rib, others have the ground to the smooth lead. (Guess how I found that out?) Always check everything with a meter before connecting power.

One should look closely at the 12V socket you use. Some will allow the plug to easily vibrate out and lose connection. Best are ones with internal ribs to keep the plugs in place. I have had to use nylon ties to keep one of my plugs connected. I'll be replacing it one of these days.

But don't worry, I'll be putting the pacemaker warning sign on the tank before I see Roy next time.

Dan, are you using the standard vrod battery/alternator or have you upgraded? If the standard setup can handle all that amperage, I'm impressed.

Rob

I have mine hot wired to the battery but has a 15amp fuse inline. The power port I use above has red led lights on them, so it kinda reminds you if you accidentally leave it on when bike is off. Just to add to what Danii said, It's also good to have a voltage monitor (mine is located near the triple tree) so you could keep an eye on your battery. My radio and Amp is hooked up to a 12volt wire that only turns ON when IGN is on.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/knightenforcer/CIMG2996.jpg


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Dan, are you using the standard vrod battery/alternator or have you upgraded? If the standard setup can handle all that amperage, I'm impressed.

Rob
Once I took the stuff off main line and wired it to the ACCY circuit, I've had no issues. I monitor voltage with the V-Gauge. Actually, except for the Gebring, none of this stuff, except the 100 watt amp on the fairing, which I seldom use, pulls much of a load.

I use a BMW accessory socket meant for an old R-100. I drilled a single hole in the frame crossmember behind the rear cylinder head and screwed the BMW socket bracket to the frame at this point. The socket is invisible to the casual eye, being tucked in behind the right frame at the rear of the rear cylinder head. This way the cord for my Widder electric vest ( made in the USA while Gerbings are all made in China ) cannot touch a hot exhaust and melt. The socket is attached to the battery through a 15 amp fuse. Now I can use all my old BMW stuff and battery tender on my R.

For some strange reason my cell phone doesn't work on sunny days when I am out riding..... :hidesbeh:

For anyone wanting to add on/off switches, be aware that H-D sells "Auxilliary Accessory Switch Housing Kits" which bolt up to the stock control cluster and provide space for up to three switches per side. The p/n for the black ones is 70248-02A or 70248-02B (left) and 70256-02A (right). They run about $35 each and the black on/off switches to fit them are about $14 each.
The black housing kits are hard to find. The L.H. side is back-ordered and the R.H. side is "pending obsolete" (whatever that means) and it's p/n was last listed in the '07 accessory catalog (even tho it is pictured in both the '08 and new '09 catalogs). I had my local dealer do a search on the H-D parts locator and I ordered them from two out-of-state dealers who each had one side in stock. (The actual switches are common.)

I am trying to tap into an accessory wire at the fusebox (OR possibly use the spare fuse slot?) in order to power a future radio and existing cigarette lighter adapter on my 04 Road Glide fairing.

Is it as simple as:

A: identifying the accessory wire from the wiring diagram and then splicing into it with an inline fuse and strategic it to the front of the bike?

B: running the ground wire to the frame?

That's what I did. But I followed the wire from behind the Accy fuse.