Here's the first dyno my bike's seen.

Started out pretty good with just the latest factory tuning file. All that's been added in some fuel in the midrange to smooth it out and accommodate the V-mods to the SE Slip ons.

Baseline: HP = 109.7 @ ~ 8000 rpm, Torque = 78.6 @ ~ 6700 rpm.
Final Tune: HP = 110.9 @ ~ 7800 rpm, Torque = 80.5 @ ~ 6400 RPM.

The tuner spent most of his time working on the torque linearity and max torque in the midrange, where I spend 90% of the time. His equipment is an antique Dynojet with an old O2 machine and it hasn't be calibrated in a decade so it's really more of a reference for his work than a true HP number.

There's a lot more in the bike, especially in the upper ranges so I will be scheduling some time on a Factory One (Mustang) eddy current (steady state) dyno in the coming weeks. This guy has a brand new 4 gas analyzer and is really keen on getting into the V-Rod so he's going to give me a flat rate price and probably spend all day playing. More to come.

Here it is:
My last time at the dyno,anf the last time that stealer dyno tunes my bike.look at what they did up to about 5k.Sorry no afr chart.

Here's mine...

Just the V-modded SE1s w/air filter (& ECM flash) and PCIIIr. I got the ECM flash before I got the Power Commander.

Ok, here are the newest dyno results.I went to my new dealer.So, this is a different dyno.I gained more hp and torque,that's all that matters.I can't go for a ride yet because it's snowing (only an inch),but they are calling for 40's and sunshine this weekend.There is a dip in torque,but I can go back a later date when more time is available for me.

My last dyno run.

Here's the latest run from today on a Factory One Dyno. These numbers are adjusted to represent an equivalent run on a DynoJet. This dyno steps through the RPMs, we used 1000 rpm increments for the pulls and extrapolated the other numbers to smooth the graphs.

Peak HP = 116.49 @ 8000
Peak TQ = 80.73 @ 7000

Not too shabby :cheers:

The graph is purposely smoothed because the brake dynos measure torque at specific RPM points rather than through a sweep. The only numbers we actually have are at 1000 rpm increments. the 500 rpm increments are extrapolated (averaged).

When you run a bike on this type of dyno you pull up to a specific RPM as instructed by the computer and it homes in on the rpm by applying varying amounts of energy to the brake. Only after it gets the same reading over a specific period of time does it actually take a reading. It's completely different than a Dynojet inertial dyno.

If you compare the first graph you'll see that even on an old Dynojet my bike pulls pretty smooth :) The difference in the programs (maps) is minor. I added a little more fuel in the midrange, smoothed the transitions and leaned it up on the top end. No modifications to the timing since I was running out of time. I've since cleaned up the map even more and done a couple of data recording runs up the street and the bike is running STRONG!

Here's mine. I've got the stock exhaust VMod'ed and a SE Airfilter with the HD Flash download. Was thinking about removing the airbox lid to hopefully pick up another pony or two...

Finally got the bike dyno'd. I don't have the stock numbers as the first run was after installing the V-Mods, K&N and SE1 flash, not topless. The Final was done with the PCIIIr on a Dynojet.

Now the map

Force longs, K&N filter (topless), race tuner.

http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2377&stc=1

If the top end was leaned out would I get a little more?

Okie,

It's possible that a little leaner on top could add a few but the top end torque curve looks very good, most bikes drop off real fast after 8000.

The only problem is that flat spot between 4000 - 5500. Too bad that's where you spend 90% of your time running. The AFR looks good, maybe it needs some more timing (or it's loosing timing and backing off causing the power loss). Do you have a datalog from the runs?

He says it's the best he can do with the flat spot with these pipes. I know other pipes would cure it but I really like the looks and sound of these. At least he made the hole much much smaller.

Okie,

It's possible that a little leaner on top could add a few but the top end torque curve looks very good, most bikes drop off real fast after 8000.

The only problem is that flat spot between 4000 - 5500. Too bad that's where you spend 90% of your time running. The AFR looks good, maybe it needs some more timing (or it's loosing timing and backing off causing the power loss). Do you have a datalog
from the runs?
I don't know what a datalog is but i will ask for it when i go to pick it up saturday. What else should I ask for?

Here's my latest. Race tuner, Force longs, K&N topless.

http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3729&stc=1

V-mods, SEfilter, topless.PCIIIR
no tune done, this is how i dropped it off.the 20 map was perfect for my bike.
The dealer said this is the best setup he has seen for the v-rod so far and was very impressed with the numbers compared to the numbers he has been getting out of the samsons and SE's (these were 10 HP over the best he has done so far)

Power 115.7
Torque 81.9

Looks Very Nice! :plause:

My best results yet. The better numbers were achieved with self mobified stock pipes, SE filter, top off, PCiiiR, . Dyno tested at Dyno-jet approved HD dealer.
The lower numbers were the best that the local HD tuner could get with Vance & Hines pipes , top on.
I want to achieve best possible mid range power. Max HP is not so important.

Air fuel ratio isn't great. I believe I can squeeze a little more HP with the help of a good tuner.

Harry, those are some pretty impressive peak numbers using self modified stock pipes, and very smooth torque and hp curves. Again this proves just how well the stock pipes perform, and were originally designed. Some aftermarket pipes might produce more peak hp, but at the cost of a smooth, very driveable torque curve. I'd be very happy with your results.

Ok guys here ya go, the combination of Tunning the TT's with the RT took my vrod from 115hp 74.8 torque to 122hp & 80 ft torque 80.4. The open spot at 3000 rpm is a dip do to the mega-cycle cams installed, Scott was unable to eliminate it. He tuned both cylinders independently by inserting the dyno probe up into each header pipe.

:notworth: :notworth: :notworth:

Superb. I may need to slide on over the Jims and have him tweek on mine. How much time did be spend and what was the cost (if you don't mind me asking).

BTW, what was your previous setup (pipes, PCIII???, etc.)

Took 2 days because wed. we had so much humidity from the rain it was causing problems, so he finished it today (thurs). Normally would only take him a day. Total price of removing PCIIIr, installing RT and tuning $292.

Took 2 days because wed. we had so much humidity from the rain it was causing problems, so he finished it today (thurs). Normally would only take him a day. Total price of removing PCIIIr, installing RT and tuning $292.
That's pretty reasonable. Again, what was your previous setup, before the TT's and cam that got you to 115 hp. Also, what dyno does he have?

I was at 112hp with 28T, Cam, SE 16ga and PCIIIr(map 002).....115hp was baseline install of RT and TT's installed. With 30T, and SE pkg I never truly dyno'd it so I dont know. But I could definitely tell a difference it once I installed the 28T and PCIIIr.

Brent,
I guess it's Fair to say You like the TT Pipes! :kaz: Great Numbers now ad a 75 shot of Nitrous and you'll have some Real Fun! :twisted:

Kaz, yes I am very pleased with the end result, as for the NOS, I will either wait for turbo that fits the vrod nicely or by then HD will be making the production vrod with a bigger motor option(factory 1550 big-bore). Probably in 6mos to a yr I will have bigger valves installed and head-wrk done to match the cams so I get the optimum use of them.

Jim's has a Dynojet model 200, we usually charge 3 hours labor for a dyno tune session @ $64 per hour plus parts

Jim's has a Dynojet model 200, we usually charge 3 hours labor for a dyno tune session @ $64 per hour plus parts
Bueller,

Does that DJ200 have the brake option?

Mark,if your ever up here.I'm about 90% positive that's what my tuner uses.

Mods: K&N air filter, Self Mods, Topless and pc3r

My Dyno Results
'04 VRSC-B, Topless, D&D Full System, Race Tuner

I dont think my dealer did all he could, Seem like the dyno guy didnt know very much about it. They Dynoed it for 6 hours. Had trouble on the AFR arond 3000 to 4000.

I am going to check with Surdyke or someone like that to see if they have a real good dyno guy. Still Have alittle burp or flat spot around 3000.

DOnt know much about this, What do you think guys hows my Dyno Sheets look.
Give me your Opinion.

Thanks :thumb:

Also I have seen people post thier temp and stuff, Heres was mine
Temperature 84 °F
Humidity 68%
Pressure 30.18 in / 1021 hPa (Steady)

This is the best I could do....Looks like one of those Dam AIR FRESHENERS......

How do you go from 0-50 with only 10hp. Maybe you should try one of those nitrous air fresheners. LOL.

My Dyno Results
'04 VRSC-B, Topless, D&D Full System, Race Tuner

I dont think my dealer did all he could, Seem like the dyno guy didnt know very much about it. They Dynoed it for 6 hours. Had trouble on the AFR arond 3000 to 4000.

I am going to check with Surdyke or someone like that to see if they have a real good dyno guy. Still Have alittle burp or flat spot around 3000.

DOnt know much about this, What do you think guys hows my Dyno Sheets look.
Give me your Opinion.

Thanks :thumb:

Also I have seen people post thier temp and stuff, Heres was mine
Temperature 84 °F
Humidity 68%
Pressure 30.18 in / 1021 hPa (Steady)
It looks like the were afraid to crank up the VE tables. It goes lean around 4K and you loose power. Definately didn't know what they were doing.

If you could get the 3000 - 5000 torque flat then you could move the entire AFR up and down to find the best power. If you can get a table flat torque curve then the bike will feel like a monster. Those peaks and valleys have no business in the V-Rod's power curve ;)

Overall the numbers are good but it sounds like it's by default since the tuner didn't really know what they were doing.

P.S. Don't worry about hitting a magic number. Tune to the highest number the dyno you are on will record and you'll be running with the big dogs (at least the ones without turbos and nitrous :) )

My Dyno Results
'04 VRSC-B, Topless, D&D Full System, Race Tuner

I dont think my dealer did all he could, Seem like the dyno guy didnt know very much about it. They Dynoed it for 6 hours. Had trouble on the AFR arond 3000 to 4000.

I am going to check with Surdyke or someone like that to see if they have a real good dyno guy. Still Have alittle burp or flat spot around 3000.

DOnt know much about this, What do you think guys hows my Dyno Sheets look.
Give me your Opinion.

Thanks :thumb:

Also I have seen people post thier temp and stuff, Heres was mine
Temperature 84 °F
Humidity 68%
Pressure 30.18 in / 1021 hPa (Steady)

That looks just like my power curve when Cajun Harley did mine. They tuned for "8hrs." and it had a bad flat spot. I found a better tuner and it's gone.

Thanks guys for you info,
Sounds like I need to find a better tuner,
I will have to ask around on here, anyone know anything about Surdyke in Cape Girardeau Missouri? Or any Good Tuners around St Louis Missouri? or Nashville Tenn?.

Anyone?

Thanks Guys :thumb:

Here it is the new numbers. Turbo Tech pipe, SE filter, topless, PCIIIR.
122.4 hp 82.11 tq.
Read'em and weap :twisted:

Very strong.....how bout posting your PC3 map?

Very strong.....how bout posting your PC3 map?
How is that going to help? Not being a smart ass just curious, and how would I do it?

Here it is the new numbers. Turbo Tech pipe, SE filter, topless, PCIIIR.
122.4 hp 82.11 tq.
Read'em and weap :twisted:

Very nice.

Bcause I'm thinking of a new exhaust for my ride, either Joker, or D & D, and your PC3 map would be a great place to start with I think. I have thought long and hard about the TTs several times, just not willing to give uo the right hand ground clearance or risk leg burns, I like to ride in shorts sometimes, during the summer. Did you have your combination dyno tuned to get those numbers? I'm guessing you did.

Bcause I'm thinking of a new exhaust for my ride, either Joker, or D & D, and your PC3 map would be a great place to start with I think. I have thought long and hard about the TTs several times, just not willing to give uo the right hand ground clearance or risk leg burns, I like to ride in shorts sometimes, during the summer. Did you have your combination dyno tuned to get those numbers? I'm guessing you did.
Yes I had it funo tuned. I put the map up in the EFI spot but I don't know if you cab get it. Tell me where to send it and I'll give it to you. :boobs:

Mods: K&N air filter, Self Mods, Topless and pc3r

Hey Derek. What map are you using or is this a custom map?

Danno, I started with the .020 then leaned her out in the mid and low range.
I have been remodeling my shop, and will spend more time fine tuning when I reset the dyno room.

Rick, sent you an email on map. Thx.

Bcause I'm thinking of a new exhaust for my ride, either Joker, or D & D, and your PC3 map would be a great place to start with I think. I have thought long and hard about the TTs several times, just not willing to give uo the right hand ground clearance or risk leg burns, I like to ride in shorts sometimes, during the summer. Did you have your combination dyno tuned to get those numbers? I'm guessing you did.
Don't buy your exhaust yet buddy, my JM is due to be delivered next week, I will get a map developed, dyno test it, road test the pipe for a few hundred miles & tell the truth about the power out put & functionality. Make your decision then.
My TT (after around 3000 miles) is now blowing gas all around the muffler joint where the ally can is wrapped around the steel flange as well as through the pop rivet holes. The pop rivets have all come loose & rattle & vibrate like hell. I'm not saying the pipe doesn't perform, no question it's the best available from that point of view.
But trust me, this pipe is for racing ONLY!
One more thing, I find it unusual that Rick is posting HP numbers that are way in excess of what anyone else has acheived with the same set up.
Considering the law of averages (not to mention the laws of physics) I think the 115hp reading is closer to reality. :thumb:

I have been waiting patiently for your test/data on the Joker, Paul. I have been talking to Bryan and co at Joker, I know they just finished a run of 40 complete exhausts last week, in fact, their holding one for me right now. I'm dying for your data, and your opinions, our official vrod exhaust doctor! Now hurry up....Yes, all dynos are not created equal....in fact one can juggle the correction factors a bit and end up with either great numbers or crappy.....kinda makes a paying customer feel better spending his money with you if he's seeing big numbers versus little ones, if you know what I mean.

Besides, I was waiting to see if Edward, our friend from puerto rico was ready to sell his Joker to me and buy the TT race pipe.....

Rick?
Tell them the rest of the Story Brother! :stilpoke: I'm Not gonna Flame ya but lets be Totally Factual here! :thumb:

Rick?
Tell them the rest of the Story Brother! :stilpoke: I'm Not gonna Flame ya but lets be Totally Factual here! :thumb:
I did I put it in the other post. Bike made 117 on another dyno. You avie to consider I have the advantage of good clean air. Sea level air, but look at the dyno pul it was 98.48 degrees inside. Still from 104 to 117 thats something.

I thought you told me it make 114 on the new/old dyno?When I told you to get a back up Dyno because No one will believe you! :kaz: If it was 117 I must have heard you wrong.The Only Numbers that mean anything to me is what your time slip says. :thumb:

I did I put it in the other post. Bike made 117 on another dyno. You avie to consider I have the advantage of good clean air. Sea level air, but look at the dyno pul it was 98.48 degrees inside. Still from 104 to 117 thats something.
Quote:'All problems solved, no I used the tuner dyno. It made 115 on the other dyno.'

I thought you told me it make 114 on the new/old dyno?When I told you to get a back up Dyno because No one will believe you! :kaz: If it was 117 I must have heard you wrong.The Only Numbers that mean anything to me is what your time slip says. :thumb:
No you heard me right but when we took off the air filter it pulled 117. Sounds better than 114. Timeslips are next, hopefully Wednesday, they have a grudge night maybe I can talk John in to coming with me. How about it John, you down to go to LACR this week. Call me you have my #. I've got another dyno scheduled we'll take the 3 and average them out.

BIG BORE,HEADS ,CAMS THROTTLE BODY,D AND D, 4488 CORRECTED ALTITUDE.
DYNO JET 250 WITH BRAKE. :thumb:

BIG BORE,HEADS ,CAMS THROTTLE BODY,D AND D, 4488 CORRECTED ALTITUDE.
DYNO JET 250 WITH BRAKE. :thumb:
Very nice Rick, you must be well pleased. Which cam is this? :thumb:

Nice Rick, I wonder what different pipes like ST or TT would gain you. Which cams and did you go to diff valves?

Very nice Rick, you must be well pleased. Which cam is this? :thumb:
PAUL
WEB CAM,EAGLE H.D. GRIND

Nice Rick, I wonder what different pipes like ST or TT would gain you. Which cams and did you go to diff valves?
ZIPPERS RACE HEADS OVERSIZED VALVES SEE ABOVE FOR CAM.
THE D AND D TWO INTO ONE IS IN MY OPINION A GOOD PIPE
FOR THE STREET. I RAN IT WITH THE BAFFLE IN IT.
I WILL POST NEXT WITH NO AIR CLEANER OR BAFFLE THAT I'LL
RUN AT THE TRACK.

PAUL
WEB CAM,EAGLE H.D. GRIND


Please kindly explain what you mean with this, do you have a link to the maker and camspecs?

Maybe he means "Web cam" as in video cam.... hehehe

Webcams are one of the premier Porsche, Exotics, and motorcycle perfomance camshaft companies. http://www.webcamshafts.com/

The V-Rod cams are in their new products PDF, click on "New of 2004" off their home page.

BIG BORE,HEADS ,CAMS THROTTLE BODY,D AND D, 4488 CORRECTED ALTITUDE.
DYNO JET 250 WITH BRAKE. :thumb:
OK not to take anything away from you, this is going to sound conceited I think, but my bike made 122.43hp, 82.11 Tq with the dynojst 250 altitude corrected and a brake. My mods are as follows, TT pipes, PC3R, SE Filter, 28T gear, topless, IAT in the air filter cover. Again I know it sounds conceited, but for all that money I would have expected a lot more power, at least 100 plus lb.ft. of torque.

Obviously some bikes are just a little more grunty than others, but what should an 03 with SE slip ons, flash and filter make in rwhp and torque? Top is on.

Obviously some bikes are just a little more grunty than others, but what should an 03 with SE slip ons, flash and filter make in rwhp and torque? Top is on.
114hp is what I've seen. 74-78ft.lbs. tq

SE V-Modded. SE airfilter and PCIIIUSB 28 tooth. Stock ECM

OK not to take anything away from you, this is going to sound conceited I think, but my bike made 122.43hp, 82.11 Tq with the dynojst 250 altitude corrected and a brake. My mods are as follows, TT pipes, PC3R, SE Filter, 28T gear, topless, IAT in the air filter cover. Again I know it sounds conceited, but for all that money I would have expected a lot more power, at least 100 plus lb.ft. of torque.

I HAD HOPED FOR 90LBS OF TQ.SMALL MOTOR (1320) LET ME
TUNE IT AT SEA LEVEL AND I WOULD GET ALOT MORE(AIR IS
AIR.) THE DYNO DOES NOT CORRECT FOR ALT. IT USE'S SAE
CORRECTION FACTOR THAT DOES NOT ADDRESS THE AMOUNT
OF AIR PRESENT AT ALT. WE'LL SEE HOW NO AIR CLEANER AND
BAFFLE TURNS OUT.I ALSO DID'NT GO HIGH COMP.12.5/1
:hmm: AS I RIDE 94 MILES ROUND TRIP IN VARYING CONDTIONS.

I HAD HOPED FOR 90LBS OF TQ.SMALL MOTOR (1320) LET ME
TUNE IT AT SEA LEVEL AND I WOULD GET ALOT MORE(AIR IS
AIR.) THE DYNO DOES NOT CORRECT FOR ALT. IT USE'S SAE
CORRECTION FACTOR THAT DOES NOT ADDRESS THE AMOUNT
OF AIR PRESENT AT ALT. WE'LL SEE HOW NO AIR CLEANER AND
BAFFLE TURNS OUT.I ALSO DID'NT GO HIGH COMP.12.5/1
:hmm: AS I RIDE 94 MILES ROUND TRIP IN VARYING CONDTIONS.
I would guess the no filter will pick up Hp and no baffles will lose tq. Why Does V-Mod quote numbers much higher? I wish I could afford that thing believe me, I know my bike would make huge power. I wish you could dyno on my dyno, I'd love to see the numbers.

I would guess the no filter will pick up Hp and no baffles will lose tq. Why Does V-Mod quote numbers much higher? I wish I could afford that thing believe me, I know my bike would make huge power. I wish you could dyno on my dyno, I'd love to see the numbers.
The Same Reason Your Friend at the Happy Dyno is so Busy and the Honest Guy isnt!You tell them what they want to hear"High Numbers" and Not the Truth"Low Numbers"!The Truth can Hurt SOMETIMES! ;)

I HAD HOPED FOR 90LBS OF TQ.SMALL MOTOR (1320) LET ME
TUNE IT AT SEA LEVEL AND I WOULD GET ALOT MORE(AIR IS
AIR.) THE DYNO DOES NOT CORRECT FOR ALT. IT USE'S SAE
CORRECTION FACTOR THAT DOES NOT ADDRESS THE AMOUNT
OF AIR PRESENT AT ALT. WE'LL SEE HOW NO AIR CLEANER AND
BAFFLE TURNS OUT.I ALSO DID'NT GO HIGH COMP.12.5/1
:hmm: AS I RIDE 94 MILES ROUND TRIP IN VARYING CONDTIONS.

Hey Rick, don't knock it mate. You've gained nearly 30% in power, that's a great result & right on the button for the extensive mod's you have made.
Your ride must be red hot, give yourself a pat on the back from me. :notworth:
Some people are realists whilst others are California Dreamin', you my friend are obviously the former.
It will be interesting to see how you can manipulate the torque with the air inlet & exhaust. I gained about 2ft/lbs by removing the filter altogether but like you I do a daily round trip so I couldn't run her that way. Out of the 3 pipes I've tested the SE gave the highest torque reading by about 2lb but the TT brings it in about 2000rpm sooner which is great on the street.
Keep us posted. :thumb:

Thanks Paul, I Could Get Way Into Differances, Unless Both Bikes
Are Dynoed Right After Each Other And The Same Conditions,and The
Same Dyno,comparisions Don't Count In My Opinion.
Got Web Cams Working On A Profile That Will Take Advantage Of
Zippers Heads And Still Be Streetable.i'll Increase Comp. To 12.5 To1
When I Change Cams. The Cams I'am Running Are Made For 4.350 Bore
And 6mm Stroke,alot Bigger Motor I Was Going To Post Dyno
Numbers On The Same Engine At Different Elevations To Prove A
Point,but Like They Say If I Have To Explain You Won't Understand.
Any One That Is A Member Of This Forum And Are In Boise Idaho,
I Will Dyno Your V-rod For Free! So You Can Have Comparisions

Thanks Paul, I Could Get Way Into Differances, Unless Both Bikes
Are Dynoed Right After Each Other And The Same Conditions,and The
Same Dyno,comparisions Don't Count In My Opinion.
Got Web Cams Working On A Profile That Will Take Advantage Of
Zippers Heads And Still Be Streetable.i'll Increase Comp. To 12.5 To1
When I Change Cams. The Cams I'am Running Are Made For 4.350 Bore
And 6mm Stroke,alot Bigger Motor I Was Going To Post Dyno
Numbers On The Same Engine At Different Elevations To Prove A
Point,but Like They Say If I Have To Explain You Won't Understand.
Any One That Is A Member Of This Forum And Are In Boise Idaho,
I Will Dyno Your V-rod For Free! So You Can Have Comparisions
Who's doing the stroker kit?

Eagle Harley Davidson (jamie Mac's Motor Builder)
SEVERAL CAL DEALERS ARE ALSO OFFERING THEM
(EXCHANGE.)

Eagle Harley Davidson (jamie Mac's Motor Builder)
SEVERAL CAL DEALERS ARE ALSO OFFERING THEM
(EXCHANGE.)
Lafayette,Indiana?is that where Eagle HD is?My dealer had them do some work for there v-rod.They are gonna be in Atlanta for the AHDRA event at the end of the month.
Bike #VR 30 all black.

I'm on his side too, I thought the BB made a lot more power. I guess V-Mods numbers are very generous. Hey I just have a run of the mill V-Rod, I'd love to have a big bore. After I get back from shooting XXX2, I'll have more than enough dough for that. Then will see what kind of power this California Dream really makes. So let the bench racing begin. :thumb:

Thanks Paul, I Could Get Way Into Differances, Unless Both Bikes
Are Dynoed Right After Each Other And The Same Conditions,and The
Same Dyno,comparisions Don't Count In My Opinion.
Got Web Cams Working On A Profile That Will Take Advantage Of
Zippers Heads And Still Be Streetable.i'll Increase Comp. To 12.5 To1
When I Change Cams. The Cams I'am Running Are Made For 4.350 Bore
And 6mm Stroke,alot Bigger Motor I Was Going To Post Dyno
Numbers On The Same Engine At Different Elevations To Prove A
Point,but Like They Say If I Have To Explain You Won't Understand.
Any One That Is A Member Of This Forum And Are In Boise Idaho,
I Will Dyno Your V-rod For Free! So You Can Have Comparisions
Rick, I'm new to this forum, & am picking my new ROD up this Saturday morning and will be heading back through Boise on my way home. Think I could swing in there and get acquainted and dyno'd so I can get a stock comparison with the future mods?

Lafayette,Indiana?is that where Eagle HD is?My dealer had them do some work for there v-rod.They are gonna be in Atlanta for the AHDRA event at the end of the month.
Bike #VR 30 all black.

THATS THE PLACE!

I'm on his side too, I thought the BB made a lot more power. I guess V-Mods numbers are very generous. Hey I just have a run of the mill V-Rod, I'd love to have a big bore. After I get back from shooting XXX2, I'll have more than enough dough for that. Then will see what kind of power this California Dream really makes. So let the bench racing begin. :thumb:

OK ONE MORE TIME, WE DYNO TUNED A 95 INCH TWIN CAM, HERE.
114 H.P. 100 FT.LBS.TRQ.
TOOK IT TO LAUGHLIN NEV. DYNO AT 124.67 H. P. 109.88 FT.LBS
DON'T GET IN A HURRY WITH THE BB, ALOT OF THINGS ARE IN
THE WORKS. (BB LINERS IN A STOCK CASE,STROKER,ETC.)
WE'RE RUNNING MY BIKE IN THE PRO CLASS SUN. RE-DYNO
TOMM.WILL POST THEN. :dance:

OK ONE MORE TIME, WE DYNO TUNED A 95 INCH TWIN CAM, HERE.
114 H.P. 100 FT.LBS.TRQ.
TOOK IT TO LAUGHLIN NEV. DYNO AT 124.67 H. P. 109.88 FT.LBS
DON'T GET IN A HURRY WITH THE BB, ALOT OF THINGS ARE IN
THE WORKS. (BB LINERS IN A STOCK CASE,STROKER,ETC.)
WE'RE RUNNING MY BIKE IN THE PRO CLASS SUN. RE-DYNO
TOMM.WILL POST THEN. :dance:
Thanks Rick, I guess good air is the key. I'd still love to see your combo at this dyno. Good air and all, I think if it was cooler in the dyno chamber it could have made more.

HERE'S A RETUNED RUN(FOUND MY AIR FLOW PROBLEM)
AND A FIVE GEAR PULL WITH ELEC. SHIFTER. :angeldev:
I KNOW THERE'S MORE LEFT, CAMS ARE COMING!

HERE'S A RETUNED RUN(FOUND MY AIR FLOW PROBLEM)
AND A FIVE GEAR PULL WITH ELEC. SHIFTER. :angeldev:
looks good now go run a NUMBER! :diablo:

144/98 very nice :notworth:

I have a question: Why so many deep pockets with that tune, I think I counted 4 of them. Is that normal? Just wondering.

I have a question: Why so many deep pockets with that tune, I think I counted 4 of them. Is that normal? Just wondering.
OTTA SEE THEM WHEN YOU SPEED SHIFT WITH YOUR CLUTCH,
WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT ARE WHEN IT KILLS THE ENGINE
TO SHIFT IT. THE DIPS ARE BETWEEN SHIFTS,LOOK AT THE
SPEED IN EACH GEAR CAN YOU DO 58MPH IN FIRST GEAR?
THIS RUN IS 1ST THRU 5TH. (4TH GEAR PULL IS THE OTHER) :chair:

Ah, that makes sense.

HERE'S A RETUNED RUN(FOUND MY AIR FLOW PROBLEM)
AND A FIVE GEAR PULL WITH ELEC. SHIFTER. :angeldev:
I KNOW THERE'S MORE LEFT, CAMS ARE COMING!
Thats what I thought I would see, beautiful.

I just got my bike back from being dyno'd. They wrote some notes as you can hopfully see on the attached sheet about the final run being at 99 degrees and that effecting the outcome. I have a 2002 with the SE Filter, 28 tooth sprocket, SE slip-ons V-Modded & run topless. Is this what I should have expected?? Any comments would be appreciated as well as suggestions for my next step/steps. Turbo? Supercharger? Big Bore? Any combination of these. Thanks in advance, Jeff

I just got my bike back from being dyno'd. They wrote some notes as you can hopfully see on the attached sheet about the final run being at 99 degrees and that effecting the outcome. I have a 2002 with the SE Filter, 28 tooth sprocket, SE slip-ons V-Modded & run topless. Is this what I should have expected?? Any comments would be appreciated as well as suggestions for my next step/steps. Turbo? Supercharger? Big Bore? Any combination of these. Thanks in advance, Jeff
Those are very good numbers, Thats better than some I've seen. Exellent graph also, I bet the bike runs strong.

That's good news as the only basis for comparison I have is how it was stock as I did a ton of stuff all at once but I think it runs awesome. It is a completly different look, sound and feel from stock and I love it.

I have to agree, those are very good numbers. If the ambient air temp in the room was that high then the intake air temp was probably even higher.

Their software should have been able to compensate. They also don't have the altitude and barometric pressure readings on the graph either.

Not knowing the dew point or pressure it's hard to calculate a correction factor but it's probably about 2% using a rule of thumb that each 10 degrees is worth 1% of rated HP. His estimates are probably correct. In fact, your intake air temp was probably closer to 110 degrees.

One thing I've noticed is the system on the V-Rod runs richer at lower temperatures. In theory the system should compensate and it does to a point but it's controlled by a variable that we don't have access to. Since your final numbers still seem a but lean (13:1 is a good power AFR in the midranges, You're over 14:1) you should have real good numbers in cooler air.

Overall, great looking graph.

badrod,

What tuner (PCIII, RT) are you using and do you have a map to attach?

Ken

I forgot to mention I was using a Race Tuner. I do not have the map printed out but I will do so and post it. Jeff

03 V-rod
ST EXHAUST (12 DISC NO-CAP)
STG 1 ECM
PC USB

Same set-up two different bikes....
go get it boyz..............

Good numbers Dan, but look up my results with a lot less money.

:vrodforu:
I know who you are, as per reference here. If you've read this forums you'll know I am the foremost dyno expert here :rolleyes: . As a matter of fact I'm just returning from Europe where I wrote a paper on dynojets. It was a prospective placebo controlled randomised trial lasting 3 days. You should know Max, Mark, and I are Buying a dyno with the millions generated by the forum. We will be quitting our dayjobs and travel around the country tuning V-Rods with the sole purpose of waxing Hayabusas among other Jap sportbikes. We will frst visit your brother 'turbo' (Dan that is) where we will extract about 400hp from his turbo V-Rod, these are our (very) conservative estimates. We plan on running sub 8 sec 1/4 mile times thus anihilating Kaz :spank: for starters. Then we concentrate on the Jaimes and the Trillis. All posts by Mark? He consults with me a lot. Taught him everything he knows. Max too :mrgr: .

How bout making it richer at around 3500? Will this improve on the torque dip there? If you had a Joker exhaust it would be making about 125 :sinister: ft/lbs or hp, you choose.

03 V-rod
ST EXHAUST (12 DISC NO-CAP)
STG 1 ECM
PC USB

Same set-up two different bikes....
go get it boyz..............

Get what? :confused:

This is from Supertrapps to Dan...

:vrodforu:
I know who you are, as per reference here. If you've read this forums you'll know I am the foremost dyno expert here :rolleyes: . As a matter of fact I'm just returning from Europe where I wrote a paper on dynojets. It was a prospective placebo controlled randomised trial lasting 3 days. You should know Max, Mark, and I are Buying a dyno with the millions generated by the forum. We will be quitting our dayjobs and travel around the country tuning V-Rods with the sole purpose of waxing Hayabusas among other Jap sportbikes. We will frst visit your brother 'turbo' (Dan that is) where we will extract about 400hp from his turbo V-Rod, these are our (very) conservative estimates. We plan on running sub 8 sec 1/4 mile times thus anihilating Kaz :spank: for starters. Then we concentrate on the Jaimes and the Trillis. All posts by Mark? He consults with me a lot. Taught him everything he knows. Max too :mrgr: .

How bout making it richer at around 3500? Will this improve on the torque dip there? If you had a Joker exhaust it would be making about 125 :sinister: ft/lbs or hp, you choose.


:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl2:

Just Got Done For The Track. :d

Just Got Done For The Track. :d

:cheers: :broke: :sinister: :thumb:

Awesome Rick, whats the ballpark $$ for those numbers?

Awesome Rick, whats the ballpark $$ for those numbers?
$6000.00 PLUS OR MINUS $250.00 :sad:
INCLUDES PIPE AND TUNING!

HERE'S THE BEGINING OF OUR STROKER BIG BORE.
ALOT LEFT AS YOU CAN SEE! :rolleyes:

Very nice. Looks like I might have to schedule a trip back up to Boise!

Damn you Rick it's just not fair to dangle that out here in front of a poor boy like myself. :) Killer numbers, simply awesome.

hey, some figures in advance:
86 kW (116 HP) RWP
theoretical speed @ approx 9500 RPM 250 km/h (156 MPH)
Best of all: the noise :)
120 phon

hey, some figures in advance:
86 kW (116 HP) RWP
theoretical speed @ approx 9500 RPM 250 km/h (156 MPH)
Best of all: the noise :)
120 phon
What would 190 rwhp and 11,000 RPM Be? :diablo:

Kaz,

About an extra 15 - 18 grand I'd say!! After my visit to the shop on Sat and reading this thread, I am beginning to wonder what it will cost to get into the 8 second range with a V-Rod.

I have been on the sidelines and have done zip to my bike, waiting and watching all of this going on.

I can see it coming though...

...After my visit to the shop on Sat and reading this thread, I am beginning to wonder what it will cost to get into the 8 second range with a V-Rod.

Probably +$50K & more!!! :eek:

HERE'S A BIG BORE WITH ZIPPERS RACE HEADS CUSTOM GRIND CAM.
LOST A LITTLE H.P. BECAUSE OF THE DIFFERENT CONDITIONS BUT
MORE TORQUE. AND MORE TOP END SPEED.TO THE TRACK WE GO. :deal:

hey, some figures in advance:
86 kW (116 HP) RWP
theoretical speed @ approx 9500 RPM 250 km/h (156 MPH)
Best of all: the noise :)
120 phon

attached the graph for the stats (blue 4th gear, red 5th)
far from Rick's figures but nevertheless acceptable considering that it is standard SE setup
more sessions to come...

J-D

Well my Builder / Tuner Sam Terranova of Turbo Tec USA has been Very Busy rebuilding and Now Tunning the Turbo Bike.Here is a Comparison from the Base Line Run to Now with a Little Tunning and a couple pounds more Boost! :angeldev: Much More To COME! :kaz:

Way To Go Kaz Fu(kin' Awesome!

looks like fun!

HERE'S THE FINAL TUNE FOR THE TRACK. CONDITIONS 84.2 DEG.
25% HUMID. 27.06 BAR. 5120 CORRECTED ALT. TO THE TRACK
SAT. :dance:

Rick that is amazing. That must be one handful to ride. YEEEEHAAAAAA

Rick,

Awesome numbers. :thumb: How much difference from your rod and a stock rod. How does the power feel from 2000 up to red line.

I`m impressed. I hope I get my street bike into the 140`s this time. I don`t think I`ll ever see the 150`s let alone the 160`s. I could really enjoy that 110 torque. Jesus, that must be a handfull.

Rick,

Awesome numbers. :thumb: How much difference from your rod and a stock rod. How does the power feel from 2000 up to red line.
WE INSTALLED A TWO STEP REV LIMITER,WHEN YOU LET GO
OF THE BUTTON,AT 5000 RPM IT GOES TO 9000 RPM INSTANTLY.
SETTING UP THE LOCK-UP CLUTCH TODAY.OTTA BE A BLAST TO
LAUNCH.WILL LET EVERY ONE KNOW MONDAY. :hyper:

64 dyno runs Tunning the Beast and we have Hit a wall!Not sure Think we Maxed the Stock injectors! :wazzup:

Nice #'s Kaz!

Nice #'s Kaz!
THANK's! Once Sam Figures out what's the Hold up the quest for 250rwhp will continue.I have Titanium Rods on a Custom Polished Crank with J&E Low Comp Turbo Piston so it's Made for Boost! :twisted: I will put a Monster Turbo on there if Need be,but we Have to figure out things first.To my Knowledge No one has made More"except my NOS Bike" with the Stock fuel system.we shall wait and see! ;) :kaz:

Kaz,

That is a very smooth torque line. How does it feel as far as ride on the street.

Frank

Kaz,

That is a very smooth torque line. How does it feel as far as ride on the street.

Frank
it's still at Sam's being Worked on! :(

...DON'T GET IN A HURRY WITH THE BB, ALOT OF THINGS ARE IN THE WORKS. (BB LINERS IN A STOCK CASE,STROKER,ETC.)...
That happening any time soon?

I know I would have something like this done if I could buy the stuff and have it shipped here for the install without the machining part. That's what would cause the time to be too long. If something "bolt on" became available I could order, wait it out while still having my V-Rod intact, then install and run in a week or so.

rick, your dyno sheet looks good but your lacking about 12 to 15 hp of what that motor should do. All this people talking about 8 second V-rod. That shoulded be to far away. My bike went 9.3 at a ama prostar event while meeting their rules. I'm confident with about 7or 8 more cubic inches it will run 9 flat and maybe in the 8s. PS I have seen over 400 WOT v-rod dyno sheets but I have never seen one spike and die like is other one posted.

Rick Nielson,
How is your bike setup to pull those numbers. We see Kaz is doing a great job by way of turbo.

That happening any time soon?

I know I would have something like this done if I could buy the stuff and have it shipped here for the install without the machining part. That's what would cause the time to be too long. If something "bolt on" became available I could order, wait it out while still having my V-Rod intact, then install and run in a week or so.
Ed Dog,
Paul is Jamie Mac engine Builder and has BB instock/echange your motor!You will Not have the same engine VIN number,but you would have the Fastest FU(KING V-rod in YOUR COUNTRY! :notworth: ;) This Guy Know his $hit and has his own C&C Maching and ever other trick Motor Building Tool in His Shop Eagle HD!Paul I would sure love to test that Little 108cin "1700+cc" Motor with my Nitrous,you Told me about! :twisted: :kaz:

Just had mine done at LaCrosse Harley Davidson. I am running V-Mod pipes, K&N filter (no flash) and PCIII.

The low run is when I brought it in. Middle is after the tune and the top on. Highest one is the same tune but with the top off. I assume it is ok to run with the top off with the same settings?

What map did you start out with? The "020" map? Did they not provide you with an Air Fuel Ratio graph for each run? That would give a good indication as to whether running with the top off is acceptable.


Just had mine done at LaCrosse Harley Davidson. I am running V-Mod pipes, K&N filter (no flash) and PCIII.

The low run is when I brought it in. Middle is after the tune and the top on. Highest one is the same tune but with the top off. I assume it is ok to run with the top off with the same settings?

Yes, I started with the 02 map and no they did not give me an air/fuel graph.

I also noticed a significant increase in mileage.

By the looks of the increase after tuning, it must feel like a new bike once you open it up. I'm sure you're pleased.

Here's my Dyno sheet from this past week. I did a base run completely stock with about 1060 miles on the ODO Thursday (102.77 HP 71.29 TQ). Then I installed my parts Friday night and re-dynoed at the same H-D shop on Saturday (105.99 HP 74.12 TQ).

V-Mod SE Slip-on's, SE Air Filter, Topless, Stock 30t Pulley, Race Tuner.
I'm using Mark's RT file 105GY001-A0-MJW021.MT2

Thursday conditions 84.31 F, 29.35 in-Hg, Humidity 41%
Saturday conditions 82.76 F, 29.59 in-Hg, Humidity 41%

Not much of a change at peak but pretty good gain in tourque at 4-6K and a nice AFR.

2ToneAnniversary v mod your SE's and will get a bigger BANG!

Sorry, I replied then realized I hadn't read your config so I edited my post.

You can release some of the top end by leaning out the map from 7000 - 9000. It's a bit rich and that's causing the drop in peak power. I've been playing around with that for the last 2 dyno runs and obviously haven't nailed it ;) The motor seems to like between 13.8 and 14.0 in the upper rpms to make power.

You can also see that I like the power where it counts, in the mid range.... I bet the Butt dyno is happy :ride:

Sorry I wasnt reading very good either !!!!

Sorry, I replied then realized I hadn't read your config so I edited my post.

You can release some of the top end by leaning out the map from 7000 - 9000. It's a bit rich and that's causing the drop in peak power. I've been playing around with that for the last 2 dyno runs and obviously haven't nailed it ;) The motor seems to like between 13.8 and 14.0 in the upper rpms to make power.

You can also see that I like the power where it counts, in the mid range.... I bet the Butt dyno is happy :ride:
I'll give that a try Mark. At this point are you adjusting by 1 point increments or 5?
Yes, the butt-ometer notices a differance :D

Finally figured out how to post pictures...

My set-up: V-mods, SE air filter, topless, Race Tuner.

http://www.v-rodforums.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2972

Brendon,

If you don't mind me asking, can you post your map so I can compare it to mine as I have the same set up with a rich dip in low end.

Thanks Ken

Heres my worst run yet. It was 90 degrees up in a trailer (portable dyno) so I'm not sure how accurate it is. I'm guessing I lie somewhere in the middle of my 121 and 110. But look how smooth with the TFI.

Brendon,

If you don't mind me asking, can you post your map so I can compare it to mine as I have the same set up with a rich dip in low end.

Thanks Ken


I posted the file in the EFI room - RT map files thread.
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=799

Sorry it took so long...

I had my bike done on saterday the numbers seem to be a little low.What do you think any idea's I'm running
stage 1 flash
se filter
v-mods
pcm III usb
any help would appreciated
thanks Jeffa711

i was sirprized with the dyno on my vrod 04B stock 105.4 HP, se air cleaner topless 8 holes drilled in back of stack exhust makes the bike sound a little better but dyno mike could not get a air fuel mixture reading because he could not get a solid exhust air flow so don't know if lean or rich but the vrod runs really good. saterday at kc rally

here's my sheet... dyno'ed saturday at Gail's HD in KC with the rest of the crew.

Here's one but Not the BIG ONE! :twisted: http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10183

OK.... I've got the first run at Gail's during the KC Rally, running dangerously lean. :confused:

Then I had a Power Commander 3 USB installed and had a custom map worked out on the dyno, much better AFR, much improved throttle response, extra top speed! :twisted:

This really shows the difference a PC3 can make! :notworth:

Hey Johhny, The AFR looks so much better than the initial run. I bet you feel a whole lot better knowing the lean spots were take care of. Did your tuner spend time adjusting across the RPM range and various throttle positions?

Hey Johhny, The AFR looks so much better than the initial run. I bet you feel a whole lot better knowing the lean spots were take care of. Did your tuner spend time adjusting across the RPM range and various throttle positions?

Danno, When I saw that mountain range of a lean set-up I was pi$$ed at my dealer for not dyno-ing it in the first place :bash: ... then, if you can believe it, my fuel flange went less than 100 miles after that Dyno run at Gail's... it was runnin' like crap the rest of the trip, I thought I burned holes in my pistons or somethin' nasty like that...and when I got her home, I barely made it to the dealer.... they fixed the FF, and then went to tune'n... ASAP I'll post my map, but I'm more than happy with the throttle response over ALL the rpm range, I thought my ride was fast before, HOLY $hit this thing moves out like a mother now! The guy who tuned it has had experience with V-Rods and the PC3, and I've heard he's good... I agree 100%...he took it topless w/out even asking me 'cause he knew I like to ride fast (I took it in at 1000 miles and complained about a front end wobble that I felt at 110 and got worse at 125-130) :whack:

I'll see ya in '05 for sure... I'm already plannin' a longer stay than this year... the fun was too good to miss!

I finally got a Pic of my run at the Rally.

D&D slip ons
SE air filter
Topless
Stock ECM
PCIIIr
Map 013 (with mods)

The rich spots were self induced. I made mods to the 013 map and took it a little too far. The mid and high RPM ranges are a little rich and it's rich at idle. I'll clean it up and try it again.

here is one for you guys i about shit my pants

these are 3 runs the second chart is with no airbox no filter


i am running se 16 gauge with no baffels ( farging loud sweet)
relocated sensor
k&n air filter
download cartridge

what do you think?

http://profiles.yahoo.com/chromeconsultant

Classic example of the flaws of an inertial dyno. The dyno free wheeled as the shift was done. Since the drum was free wheeling the immediate thrust caused it to accelerate faster then normal for an instant. Since an inertial dyno calculates torque by determining how fast you can accelerate a known mass (the drum) you get these spikes.

Either that or you're giving Kaz a run for his money ;)

here is one for you guys i about shit my pants

these are 3 runs the second chart is with no airbox no filter


i am running se 16 gauge with no baffels ( farging loud sweet)
relocated sensor
k&n air filter
download cartridge

what do you think?

http://profiles.yahoo.com/chromeconsultant
I saw them Now.Ya thats a FUCCK UP!Dyno or Operator or Both! :2cents: Mark I still have about 100 more Real HP then that any ways! :twisted:

what do you think?I think I wish I owned a V-ROD at age 20!! :cheers: :biker:

Ran it on Dyno for first time. SE Slip ons, Filter, RT With HD Profile no adjustments. 108.6 three runs all with in .2 of each other. 74.6 max torque.
ARF at max HP 12.5. I will post sheet, but no scanner.

Just got back from Bob Dron, Oakland H-D. Got my three (free) runs. All were within .5hp of each other. 104 HP and 73.5 lbs/ft tourque. Very flat tourque curve from about 3,750 to past 7,000 RPM. The higher revs seemed a bit rich the tech said, so I'm going to play with my PCIIIr map a bit and see how it runs.
Maybe I can get a bit better gas mileage as well.

This is dyno sheet from one of Eagle H-D big inch street motors. Air temp in Dyno room at time of this run was 98 degrees. Notice that at 5000 rpm bike is making over 100 hp and over 100 tq , that makes it real nice to ride and you don't have to downshift to get good acceleration.

I cant see the graph, only the sheet with tables and max #'s. maybe the scanner just didn't pick up the graph?
Nice numbers though!

This is dyno sheet from one of Eagle H-D big inch street motors. Air temp in Dyno room at time of this run was 98 degrees. Notice that at 5000 rpm bike is making over 100 hp and over 100 tq , that makes it real nice to ride and you don't have to downshift to get good accelleration.

Can you re-scan the graph, can't see the tq&hp curves.

What setup/mods on that bike? Looks like Great #'s ! :plause: That's where I would like to be next year, what do I have to do to match your #'s?

Can you re-scan the graph, can't see the tq&hp curves.

What setup/mods on that bike? Looks like Great #'s ! :plause: That's where I would like to be next year, what do I have to do to match your #'s?

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ AND $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :broke:

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ AND $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :broke:

:) So true! What if I only have $$$$$$$$$$ ?

Ok, I spent all my money on tools and equipment to build V-rod engines and can only afford a 50 cent scanner, but I fixed that with me handy dandy 10 cent ball point.

Thanks, I can see the curves now! So what all mods on that motor?

MY DYNO MAN HAS BEEN PLAYING WITH THE NEW RACE TUNER, GOT IT
READY FOR THE TRACK. NOS ON THE SHELF FOR NEXT WEEK. STROKER
WILL BE ON THE DYNO FRIDAY. 3783 CORRECTED ALT. :eek:

I didn't see too many posts of stock pulls, so here's mine. Bike was in for it's 1k service so I had them roll it while it was there. The mods in my sig were not on the bike for the pulls...

I didn't see too many posts of stock pulls, so here's mine. Bike was in for it's 1k service so I had them roll it while it was there. The mods in my sig were not on the bike for the pulls...
Thats The Most Ever I have seen for STOCK V-rod.Check on another dyno just to make sure! :sinister: ;) :kaz:

Thats The Most Ever I have seen for STOCK V-rod.Check on another dyno just to make sure! :sinister: ;) :kaz:

Oh man....that means I got to put all the stock crap back on :hmm: j/k

I'll get the bike dyno'd there again with all the mods, then do a comparison on another.

It's probably high becase the dyno is going downhill and the wind was from the back :)

Decided To Play With Cam Timing For The Next Race Sat.
Here's The Results. Big Bore, Zippers Heads,web Cams.
Stock Lower End.

Rick, great numbers mate... :thumb:

vrod vinny , your numbers are exactly the same as mine!

Finally got my bike from Cycle Rama with ported heads, installed and re-tuned. :) :)

Finally got my bike from Cycle Rama with ported heads, installed and re-tuned. :) :)


:notworth:

Finally got my bike from Cycle Rama with ported heads, installed and re-tuned. :) :)
is that with the Stock pistons?If so Your Bike is really setup Nice.What RPM are you revving it too? :thumb:

Kaz, yes pistons are stock. CycleRama ported and installed the new heads, put heavy-duty valve springs in and replaced my exhaust valves as they were pitted badly.

I couldnt tell you RPM value, forgot to ask.

Finally got my bike from Cycle Rama with ported heads, installed and re-tuned. :) :)

what did the heads and cam do to your gas mileage :driving:

I had the cams in for approx (10k miles), I was getting 33 - 37 pretty consistently. Now with the addition of ported heads I hoping a little better actually since the porting should be more efficient in combination with the cams. Since I just got the bike back yesterday, I will have to wait for a few gas fill-ups to see. By the end of this weekend I should know better.

Kaz, yes pistons are stock. CycleRama ported and installed the new heads, put heavy-duty valve springs in and replaced my exhaust valves as they were pitted badly.

I couldnt tell you RPM value, forgot to ask.
Thats Great you getting what some of the BB guys are with stock Pistons! :plause:

Kaz, I figure even if CycleRama's dyno is off by 5%, I am still getting what a CVO gets stock. I'm happy.

Kaz, I figure even if CycleRama's dyno is off by 5%, I am still getting what a CVO gets stock. I'm happy.
Yes that is Very Good! :plause:

cyclerama has several dyno shoot-out awards ,, they know how to tune for a fact !!

Here's my recent dyno charts. Sorry for the lousy pics. A good scanner is next investment. All comments are appreciated.

Thanks

Nice!!

Decided To Play With Cam Timing For The Next Race Sat.
Here's The Results. Big Bore, Zippers Heads,web Cams.
Stock Lower End.

Rick,
Great improvement shown with just cam timing adjustment. (Almost 20hp on Max Power and almost 10 in Torque)
What are the numbers on the cams? (lift, duration, etc.)
What lobe centers were you running and what did you adjust them to for this improvement?

More Horse power, I need it! More Torque I need it. ZHelp me out here boys. What do I need to do?

More Horse power, I need it! More Torque I need it. ZHelp me out here boys. What do I need to do?

"2002 VRSCA. Topless, ported, Polished, Maped, Screaming Eagle air cleaner, Race Download, Tuned double barrel screaming eagle pipes, 112.2 horses, 77.5 max torque. rear wheel. I need more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

revolution02:
What cams are you running?
brent_walkoviak is getting 131 with port job and cams, good numbers, but you should be getting better than 112.2 even with stock cams installed. ( port/polish and custom map tune. )
I would be checking into work done or sending bike to cyclerama for sorting out. They seem to know their business...

More Horse power, I need it! More Torque I need it. ZHelp me out here boys. What do I need to do?
Well I would want to know a little more Like "How Much can you afford?"What is Your Goals" things like this make a Big difference.Now if Big,Easy ,and Reliable,but NOT CHEAP RWHP is Your Goal then I got a just what You Need! :sinister:

Finally got my bike from Cycle Rama with ported heads, installed and re-tuned. :) :)

brent,

Can you tell me more about your mods. Cost and seat of the pants feel now in comparison to before.

Frank

Seat of the pants feel: Awesome. The ported heads are now making use of the mega cycle cams (non-race version) from v-mod). I have to be careful when carnking on throttle from dead stop, seem to break my 200 loose every time.

Mods consist of: mega-cycle cams, ported heads, race tuner, HD 28T pulley, TT exhaust, topless, using stock valves and pistons

Cost for porting, install, re-tune + (gaskets, new exhaust valves, heavier springs, titanium retainers).... $2700

Turbo V-Rod 8psi

Turbo V-Rod 8psi
:vrodforu:
NICE :thumb:
how's that turbo run on the street?
got a torque chart?Got any pictures?

:vrodforu:
NICE :thumb:
how's that turbo run on the street?
got a torque chart?Got any pictures?

Thanks vrodvinny,
Here's a picture I will post a torque chart after we get back from the SEMA show.

:vrodforu:
NICE :thumb:
how's that turbo run on the street?
got a torque chart?Got any pictures?


It's alot of fun on the street!!!!!!!

Thanks vrodvinny,
Here's a picture I will post a torque chart after we get back from the SEMA show.
I will be there and would Love to see your Bike.What booth will you be in?I will be there on some OTHER Business if you have Time! ;)

2004 VRSCB Topless, 16 GA SE pipes, Stage 1 reflash and Power Commander.

Does this curve look like the Horsepower flattens out too soon at about 7500 RPM? Notice right at 7500 rpm the torque also drops. Could there be a fuel pressure problem? This run did not have the A/F probe on.

Turbo V-Rod 9psi
www.BoostisGood.com

WOW, great torque curve Turbo595! :cheers:

I'll bet that bike pulls like a rocket when you get on the throttle. What clutch mods did you have to do for that much torque?

WOW, great torque curve Turbo595! :cheers:

I'll bet that bike pulls like a rocket when you get on the throttle. What clutch mods did you have to do for that much torque?

It does pull hard, heavier springs hold for street use.

AHH, What gives? I have never seen a Horsepower and torque curve cross at 8200. It ALWAYS crosses at 5252. Am I just missing something? Very good power though!

AHH, What gives? I have never seen a Horsepower and torque curve cross at 8200. It ALWAYS crosses at 5252. Am I just missing something? Very good power though!
I looked at some of Mine and This one crosses up high too! :confused: http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10183

Thanks vrodvinny,
Here's a picture I will post a torque chart after we get back from the SEMA show.
That is a good looking dragbike or circle track only lefthand furns

Don't know what to tell ya on the Horsepower/Torque lines not crossing at 5252 because it has to. Horsepower is a merely a mathmatical calculation derived from torque. I don't have the formula in my head or nearby but the two curves just have to cross there. From what I've learned anyhow....

Also pay attention that a lot of dyno charts have different scales for horsepower and torqe so the two won't cross on paper but may in numbers. The horsepower scale on the left and the torque scale on the right normally.

Don't know what to tell ya on the Horsepower/Torque lines not crossing at 5252 because it has to. Horsepower is a merely a mathmatical calculation derived from torque. I don't have the formula in my head or nearby but the two curves just have to cross there. From what I've learned anyhow....

Also pay attention that a lot of dyno charts have different scales for horsepower and torqe so the two won't cross on paper but may in numbers. The horsepower scale on the left and the torque scale on the right normally.

It's a little better having the scales the same, the software auto-scales it so you have to set them manually if you want them to be the same.

The formula is T= (5252 * Hp)/ Rpm for this application because it is an inertia dyno therefore it measures horsepower then calculates Torque from the Rpm. That's why you can get a horsepower reading without hooking up a tach signal but not torque, however we do have a water brake dyno for engine testing that measures Torque by a strain-gauge, then calculates Horsepower from the Rpm signal, therefore with a little algebra the equation turns into this Hp= (T * Rpm)/5252

The other thing that can upset the 5252 crossing, is using a non 1:1 gear like 5th usually is or a lazy tach pick-up. :jeannie:

There! I'm better now. For a second I thought they changed the rules<G>

I went to the HD Palm Beach anniversary rally yesterday and entered the dyno shootout because I figured $20 for a dyno run was too good a deal to pass up--and I won my class (against four other V-Rods). I even got a gift certificate as a prize, LOL. No one was more surprised than I was. Good thing no one from the fourms was there or I wouldn't have $50 to spend today!

They couldn't get a torque reading because it was too hard to get to the primary so all I have is the HP curve which seem to me to look pretty good. They also didn't do an AFR reading. I did notice a little smoke in the booth through the entire run, so it looks like I'm running a little rich. There was a V-Rod like mine with the SE 16 ga pipes, SEAF, and Stage 1 map and he ran 107 HP. I would like to have seen them take off his air box cover to gauge the difference but they were hustling folks through pretty quick (three runs).

I have a PCIIIr but haven't installed it because I have no idea what map to use. I am also running the pipes without the packing (but baffles in) and Steve at V-Mod suggested I'm losing HP because of the mod. Sure like the sound, though. Would I be better off with stock pipes V-Mod'd? What map should I try?

Scott

Looks sweet Frank. Would love to get your MAP if it not too much trouble. Have you seen a good MAP for a FAIC racing pipe. I have one, but don't leave it on because I can't find a tuner who can get the MAP right. I would change to the Supertrapp V 5.0 for those numbers.

Replacement aftermarket exhausts are still being tested but this is the final run with the new big bore using my existing SE bolt on exhaust. Jeff

Jeff would you tell us what's been done to your motor? ;) Thanks and those #'s look great!!!! :dance:

I don't have the complete break down yet. Basically I called Paul at Eagle HD and asked him to make my V Rod as bad as it could be while still being a dependable, streetable ride. I will get you the details as soon as they are all done. Jeff

Nice #'s
Someday i'll have those #'s

Thanks Vinny!! Hopefully next week when we settle on an exhaust the numbers will be even better. Jeff

I don't have the complete break down yet. Basically I called Paul at Eagle HD and asked him to make my V Rod as bad as it could be while still being a dependable, streetable ride. I will get you the details as soon as they are all done. Jeff
THOSE AINT YOUR TYPICAL BB NUMBERS....HE HAS DONE A LOT MORE TO THAT MOTOR THAN JUST A BIG BORE.. :wazzup:

4th Gear Run / Atmospheric Correction Applied - YES
Max Power - 130.7 HP @ 10190 rpm
Max Torque - 76.3 lb/ft @ 8360 rpm

MODIFICATIONS - Oz-Rod Performance

Modified heads & Cams (In:0.42X , Ex:0.39X)
Custom S/Steel Valves (In:40mm , Ex:34.5mm)
Stock Valve Springs & Retainers
Stock Pistons
Stock Bottom End
58mm Throttle Body
Plastic Stacks (Bored to 58mm + 1 deg. Taper)
Air Box Removed (Plastic)

First round of Dyno Testing and custom mapping.

Swine, nice numbers. Glad to see someone else came up with numbers similar to mine with similar mods.

I am surprised you stayed with stock springs when you had custom valves installed.

... What The ??? ...

... DAMN!!! A st..sT..STUTTER... :rofl2:
Sorry 'bout that. If some one gets a chance please delete these 2 posts.

OK, Back on subject...
Swine, nice numbers. Glad to see someone else came up with numbers similar to mine with similar mods.
Thanks mate, This was a 4th gear run - Outside Temp about 36 deg cel. (bloody hot)
I should (hope to) be able to get HP numbers around 135hp -137hp mark and torque over 80ft/lb with billet stacks, bigger throttle body & a bit more tweaking on the R/T file.


I am surprised you stayed with stock springs when you had custom valves installed.
Could not see the sense in changing springs (as yet) have had no problems with stock set-up (over 11000 rpm). Main problem so far is getting enuff airflow into intake.

:thumb: HP: Ya Gotta Luv It !!! :thumb:

Do you have an ignition or AFR table to post?
Your torque curve is nice and flat until abt 8500 RPM and then it drops slowly. I assume that the ignition timing has not been considerably changed - is that correct?
Jan

Jan-DirK:
I can get an AFR readout next week if interested. Shop is closed over X-Mas break. I am new to this mapping thing but learning as I go, I think my main problem is getting enuff air supply at 8500rpm and over. I am hoping to try a bigger throttle body set-up to improve on this.

I could look at putting some more timing into the top end but have done that with previous runs and it hasn’t helped much. Not really undersparked at the top end (30degs) My combustion chamber mods generally reduce the spark required which is the sign of an efficient burn.

Mid-range has as much spark as it will take without knock. Will be trying new billet ram tubes on next run and see what the manifold pressure is at 11,000rpm but the fact it has been dropping to 10kPa below atmospheric I think is the key indicator as to why power is flattening off from what I can see.

I may be able to stick in a bit more spark if the drop in airflow is consistent to try and offset it - but engines don’t seem to last very well when oversparked at 11000rpm and knock systems don’t tend to work their well either.

I am open to suggestions on this...

Swine,

AFR or any other data would be highly appreciated and would help me and others a lot to tune our own bikes.
My personal experience is that the engine is much more eager in high pitch RPM's with the ignition timing advanced to the maximum (abt 35° with Race Tuner) and I would go further up to 45° if it would be possible with the available tools...
IMHO the Moco drastically reduced top end power by late ignition timing (those with Race Tuner software will know what is meant...) - 30 degrees spark advance is really a joke when you look at RPM's above 10000 1/min.
Porting the heads, race cams and bigger valves bring more air into the cylinders (especially at higher RPM's) and I believe you when you say that the combustion process itself is improved - you get more air in and thus achieve a higher compression / temperature (the mixture will burn a little bit quicker). On the other hand it is a fact that the flame front requires a certain amount of time to pass the combustion chamber and the time available is directly related to the RPM. So for example at 11.000 RPM the time available to burn the air fuel mixture is roughly 35% less compared to 8.000 RPM - this negative influence cannot be compensated alone by ported heads etc and the only possible solution to get the required "extra time" for an efficient combustion is to advance the spark timing.
Sorry if I bore you with common knowledge issues...

Jan-Dirk

Hi Jan-Dirk, In testing, I have also found that this style combustion chamber does not require a lot of spark lead [ flat, symmetrical, central plug ] There are a couple of ways to pick up flame speed if needed [ squish, comp ratio{which you state } ] there are more, but much more complicated.
I agree that it would be nice if the Software engineers didn't decide what was aloud as far as adjustments, or atleast a way to turn the limits off would be nice.

That's a sweet setup Super Kaz!

That's a sweet setup Super Kaz!
Thanks,
Wait till the NEW Girl is Finished!300rwhp???????????? :angeldev:

SE Slip Ons, Air Cleaner with top. Harley's RT Fractory Profile no modifications.

74 = Max Torque
108 = Max HP
A/F Ratio

Running a bit rich at high rpm.

I posted earlier, I now have a scanner.

05 vrscse

D & D 2 into 1
Topless
Race tuner

123 Max hp
82 Max Torque
Bike ran real smooooothe!! very quick.

136 HP 92 Torque

2005 cvo
D&D 2-1
Megacycle cams
58mm TB/Velocity Stacks
PC 3 usb
Topless

SE Slip Ons, Air Cleaner with top. Harley's RT Fractory Profile no modifications.

74 = Max Torque
108 = Max HP
A/F Ratio

Running a bit rich at high rpm.

I posted earlier, I now have a scanner.

FROM 5000 RPM ON YOUR RICH, YOU'LL GET MORE POWER IF YOU TUNE
THE ENGINE AT 13.5 TO 13.8 ACROSS THE WHOLE RPM RANGE. IMHO.

136 HP 92 Torque

2005 cvo
D&D 2-1
Megacycle cams
58mm TB/Velocity Stacks
PC 3 usb
Topless

NICE NUMBERS, BET YOUR HAPPY! THINK THERE MAYBE SOME LEFT.
HAVE YOU CONSIDERED A RACE TUNER? WITH IT WE HAVE BEEN ABLE
TO MAINTIAN A VERY FLAT AIR FUEL RATIO.

FROM 5000 RPM ON YOUR RICH, YOU'LL GET MORE POWER IF YOU TUNE
THE ENGINE AT 13.5 TO 13.8 ACROSS THE WHOLE RPM RANGE. IMHO.


Rick,

Thanks for the input. I am now running semi topless. The dyno run was with air box cover on. I will do another run with semi topless and check. I just wanted to make sure it was rich from a baseline. I did a Swiss cheese modification.

Again thanks for input.

Mike

I'm thinking about going to the RT just to be able to bump up the rev limiter to 9,400 or 9,500 rpm. Did you notice that the tech backed off the dyno run above at 8,600 rpm? I might get up to 140 hp with the RT and a dyno run at least up to 9,000 rpm. I'd still have to keep the PC on for the quick shifter is just ordered (also ordered Dynojet's data logging AFR setup. $270 for the quick shifter and $430 for the data logging AFR setup from Cyborg Cycles).

AFR for best performance is 12,5

Jan

'05 VRSCB, SE Filter, PC-III USB, D&D 2:1 full system. Short tuning session on DJ250i to get AFR within tolerable levels, I'll do a full map later on. No mods yet to airbox. 4th gear run.

AFR for best performance is 12,5

Jan

I didn't find that, Jan. Anything under 13.5-13.2 and the power really took a nose-dive.

I didn't find that, Jan. Anything under 13.5-13.2 and the power really took a nose-dive.

That's interesting...we should discuss that in a different thread. It depends a lot on the way it's measured.

Jan-Dirk like to run a lot of spark lead. That will make big power at 12.5 :1

Stock 05, SE pipes partial mod (drilled 8 ¼ holes in each read plate), air filter, semi topless (cut front of upper box off). ECM upgrade is for 16 gauge pipes not SE flash. Gills box installed. Five runs all almost identical. HP 106 torque 73. Air/Fuel smooth. Any advice would be appreciated. I was hoping for a better hp than 106.

You are running a little lean all the way through the run, especially in the 80 to 105 mph zone where you were above 14 on the AFR. Richen it up some in the 6000 rpm and above zone and your power will go up as will your torque.

Mike

power.jpg





Does this make sense, stock with v-mod exhaust.

power.jpg





Does this make sense, stock with v-mod exhaust.



The AFR Looks like Crap. :hitfan:

I realize that, however, does that afr correspond to that power curve. Or is it possible that the arf sniffer is off. Does anyone have an 05 completely stock afr that is different. Believe me, I will be changing the fuel on Monday, I was just curious because that v-mods probably only changed the afr a small amount towards rich. :sad:

I think the shiffer is off as I have a very similar hp curve however the afr is nearly flat.

Anyone having any luck getting the flat spot from 4500-5500 rpm to smooth out? We built a 1318cc Zippers B Model V-Rod, it has the EFI tuner, Thunder headers 48mm Throttle body...any input would be great.

try gills box he programs to your setup-- if you do a search on gills box all the info is there :cheers:

Stock 05, SE pipes partial mod (drilled 8 ¼ holes in each read plate), air filter, semi topless (cut front of upper box off). ECM upgrade is for 16 gauge pipes not SE flash. Gills box installed. Five runs all almost identical. HP 106 torque 73. Air/Fuel smooth. Any advice would be appreciated. I was hoping for a better hp than 106.

V-mod the stock mufflers add the SE filter and get the correct fuel adjustment. this will help with the HP anf torque #'s. Good luck Greg

solid line is the PCIII map for 16g no baffels and stage1

dot line is after my tune :D

Vmodded SE 16's
Topless
SE 16 HD Flash
Gill's Box

Max HP = 108.9
Max Torque = 72.8

SuperTrapps - open (no discs or end cap)
Billet Velocity Stacks
Individual XStream K&N Filters (topless and bottomless)
Techlusion

Max HP: 110.6
Max TQ: 76.5

This was a quick tune. Torque is a bit low until 5,000 rpm. Tuner says we could bring this up a little (and therefore smooth out the HP curve as well) if we add a little back pressue (discs and end cap). What are your thoughts guys?

I agree, you need the backpressure to bring that midrange torque back. You might lose 1 or 2 at the top but who cares, you're down at least 15hp @ 4000! You put 10 - 12 disks and the end cap on and I suspect you'll be over 60 hp @ 4500 rpm.

Thanks Mark. We did this config as a baseline. Now we will know of course how any changes affect it. And I'm with you - I want the midrange torque and hp - that's where I ride! I've got two end caps - one I plan to drill out a bit so I can also test a partially open end cap as well. So, now it's just a matter of finding a good combination. I hope the sound stays close to where it's at now - these pipes sound pretty good.

Craig, what did your AFR look like. I know I had to add a bunch of fuel at the 3500 to 5500 area to get the AFR correct on my setup. You may just need a fuel adjustment to get the power up. :mrgr:

Mike

Thanks Mike, that's good to know.

I didn't have a lot of time to chat with the tuner when I picked up my bike, however when I asked him about the AFR and where it was he said he was more concerned with the CO2. He claimed this was a better indicator and is the method he uses most to tune bikes. He mentioned the ratios that worked best at certain rpms however I forget the specifics. As a side note, is this becoming the standard? If so, does anyone have any details on this?

All that said though, I will definitely keep your suggestions of more fuel in the 3500 to 500 rpm range. Thanks Mike. BTW, do you have a dyno sheet - I checked this thread but couldn't find it.