Klunking to clicking? [Archive] - 1130cc.com: The #1 Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum

: Klunking to clicking?


V-Man
05-16-2004, 06:22 PM
Like many others my '03 had the front end klunking problem. I got a huge 1 1/2' wrench from Sears and tightened the nut on top of the triple tree, I'd say 1/2, maybe 3/4 of a turn. The klunking went away but now whenever I turn the handlebars all the way to the left or to the right I hear a series of clicking sounds. I tried loosening the nut but the sound remains. I don't think it was there before I "fixed" the klunking. Did I overtighten it and kill the bearings? Any ideas what to try?

TIA.

brent_walkoviak
05-16-2004, 06:49 PM
I had the clicking in my front just like you describe, (was real noticeable as I am half deaf)..... anyway, dealer ended up adjusting the bearings by rotating then some inside the neck(thats what they told me), dont know exactly what they did, but it hasnt come back.

danafwelch
05-16-2004, 07:46 PM
There is a "fall away" test the dealers do for your front bearings. It involves the front end being up off the ground then using a torque wrench to reach factory specs. Then, they let the steering fall away to each side to double check the amount of pressure on the steering neck bearings.

SKIROD
05-17-2004, 10:02 PM
Belive it or not. The word from the Fact. Is to remove the top tree and LAPP the area that the adj. mates too. This will calm down the noise. Remember you have a 2 piece fender and a hollow wheel. One big speaker! Later SKI.

V-Man
05-18-2004, 10:36 AM
Belive it or not. The word from the Fact. Is to remove the top tree and LAPP the area that the adj. mates too. This will calm down the noise. Remember you have a 2 piece fender and a hollow wheel. One big speaker! Later SKI.

Thanks SKI but what's LAPP?

fleckster
05-18-2004, 12:39 PM
Hello,

Just wondering if anyone has put the bike up on a cycle lift and then grabbed the forks and tried rocking them back and forth to see if they get the clunk sound?

Fleckster

vroddrew
05-18-2004, 01:38 PM
Thanks SKI but what's LAPP?

Lapping is the process of polishing or smoothing a metal surface to produce a very fine, smooth finish. I would imagine that lapping the inside of the steering head would remove any irregularities, and make for a closer tolerance between the bearings and the head. A closer tolerance would lessen the "clunk" heard when stopping.

Usually engine intake and exhaust valves are hand lapped as part of a rebuild. You will need some sort of abrasive, but since I haven't seen the area Ski is describing, I couldn't tell you how difficult this procedure would be.

Ricky G.
05-18-2004, 01:48 PM
Lapping is the process of polishing or smoothing a metal surface to produce a very fine, smooth finish. I would imagine that lapping the inside of the steering head would remove any irregularities, and make for a closer tolerance between the bearings and the head. A closer tolerance would lessen the "clunk" heard when stopping.

Usually engine intake and exhaust valves are hand lapped as part of a rebuild. You will need some sort of abrasive, but since I haven't seen the area Ski is describing, I couldn't tell you how difficult this procedure would be.

sounds interesting...... :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

VrodG
05-18-2004, 02:00 PM
Drew I've done a few small engines for my pulling tractors. In doing this you use the valve and lapping compond to get a good seat, are we to use the BEARING to do this??

VrodG
05-18-2004, 02:02 PM
of the people that have switch to heavery fork oil .... do you still have this problem?

Rich Moran
05-18-2004, 09:01 PM
Part of the noise you get from the front end is actually induced by the calipers also. When you squeeze the front brake handle, the pistons can make noise in their movement as well. I've read about over torquing the stem nut to quiet the noise or the clunk the front end makes from time to time when it is turned to the left or the right, but, I have learned also that with bearings and tolerances more might not be good.

If you talk to mechanics who work on high mileage police bikes, they will advise you the biggests issue with Harleys is that the bearing race over times tends to become indented and requires work to be done to the race in order to get the correct spec for fall-away. I feel thta by over torquing the stem nut, excess pressure is being applied to the weakest link, and in that case it would be the bearing race, and could cause premature indenting into the softer race metal.

To me it is not bothersome enough to worry about, is not safety related, but an inherent mecanical quandry that the V-Rod (at least on my 02) has.

Ski, does MoCo make a race lapping tool specifically for this job?

Vinny
05-18-2004, 09:48 PM
Belive it or not. The word from the Fact. Is to remove the top tree and LAPP the area that the adj. mates too. This will calm down the noise. Remember you have a 2 piece fender and a hollow wheel. One big speaker! Later SKI.
That's what my old dealer had to do with mine.My fallaway adjusting nut and my triple tree didn't have the same taper.
It got rid of the clicking and popping,on heavy braking.Now I just have the normal clunk when hitting bumps.

SKIROD
05-18-2004, 10:35 PM
The Lapping is on the top tree only. I have not done it yet. This is only going from the Factorys word. If you take off the top tree, you will see a campherd"whatever" area where the adj. nut fits. From what I understand this is the area to Lapp. Later SKI.

VrodG
05-19-2004, 01:57 AM
Ski ... Any chance you could post some pics of this? Thanks Greg

mustangcav
05-21-2004, 02:01 PM
I'd try the fall away adjustment first before taking more involved steps. You're already past the hard part, which was to find an inch and a half wrench.

Daniii
05-21-2004, 02:09 PM
There was apparentlyn a service bulletin, or at least a note, increasing the torque on the main steering head bolt. When increased to whatever it said, it fixed my klunk. There is a thread here: http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160&highlight=Steering+head

0rest 0har
05-22-2004, 01:16 PM
Remember V-Man, that long Sears wrench (20" long wrench) is capable of transferring huge torque to that nut. The spec is 90 ft-lb in the new 2004 service manual. Half a revolution feels like you over torqued the nut. Remember that after you set this nut, to tighten the top tree pinch bolts that got loosened in the beginning...

V-Man
05-24-2004, 11:02 AM
Remember V-Man, that long Sears wrench (20" long wrench) is capable of transferring huge torque to that nut. The spec is 90 ft-lb in the new 2004 service manual. Half a revolution feels like you over torqued the nut. Remember that after you set this nut, to tighten the top tree pinch bolts that got loosened in the beginning...

Yeah, now I realize that too... I was in a hurry and didn't have time to think it through, never a good idea. I didn't loosen the pinch bolts either (I have my turn signals there, it's a pain). Well, I'm going to change to chrome triple trees and will replace the bearings at that time, I just hope I didn't damage the steering head.

BTW, does anyone know what parts are included in the chrome triple tree kit?