What are some tricks and tips for more power?
I have the supertrapp v-5 system,k&n filter,PCIIIr,and topless.
I don't want to have to use special gas(octane booster maybe).Race gas is to costly.
Are there any high perf.plugs that will give more power?

I know that a good tuner is a must.
Betcha Kaz knows some secrets,that he would like to share with everyone.

Will removing the velocity stacks give any power?

Vinny,
If you were at the Track and need a 1/10 or 2 I have a Few but for a street guy the big thing for you would be a Race Tuner.If you can get a Very good tuner you could really tweak your setup.I personally am Not a Fan of the PowerCommander"Maybe because when I had it there were no good maps for my setup.I ran a Techlusion with your set to 122rwhp .The race tuner can tune each cyclinder for optimal; performance"The Rear run a little leaner!";) Play with you plug gap"Wider is Hotter"!Sync your Throttle Bodies.They may be off shrouding the Valves.Thats a few Trix any More and I'll have to Charge ya!:fahr38

What do you mean by "Sync your throttle bodies"?Do you mean to have them flowbenched and matched?

So what your saying is, try opening up the plug gap?That should give a bigger spark.But I was thinking about starting at going .003 bigger.

I'm starting to become a anti-PCIIIr.I'm finding out things that the racetuner can do ,that the pcIIIr can't.I think I'll get rid of it and get the HD tuner.That'll be a winter project.Since the snow is on it's way.

Vinny,
What I found was there is no Cooler or Hotter plugs available for our V-rod.With the amount of NOS I run I needed a little cooler plug so I gapped it less cooling the spark.If you open it Up it would burn a little hotter!;) Syncing means making sure they are both opening equally the whole way instead of one opening More or Less than the other!:cool:

Vinny, higher octane gas will SLOW YOU DOWN! It will run BEST on the lowest octane gas that doesn't cause pre-detonation! 92 octane is perfect.

John

Is there any special plug wrench that is needed?
I'll bring home same indicators from work to check the blades and linkage.
I need to invest in a dyno.

No just a standard with a long exstention!The rears cake the fronts a Bitch to get too!:(

Originally posted by Super Kaz
Vinny,
What I found was there is no Cooler or Hotter plugs available for our V-rod.With the amount of NOS I run I needed a little cooler plug so I gapped it less cooling the spark.If you open it Up it would burn a little hotter!;) Syncing means making sure they are both opening equally the whole way instead of one opening More or Less than the other!:cool:

Kaz,

Sorry to burst you bubble but there's no way you can effect a change to a plug's heat range by changing the gap. :bs:

Please read the following from NGK's website:

A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.

Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/chartheatratingflowpath.gif

The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.

If you're running NGK then the stock plug is DCPR8E. Drop to the DCPR9E for one heat range cooler. (The DCPR9E is used in Aprilias)

Mark,
Tell that to the NOS Tech line!:rolleyes: That is what was told to me from the Nitrous Gurus.Why do you have to Gap your Plugs then?What is the Purpose?I have seen the difference at the track and on my Plugs so what do you say to that?:2cents

I remember kaz saying he changed them every run.Kaz says there isn't a hotter or colder plug for our v-rods.He had to do what made him the most power.With my race cars Msd told me to lower the gap with compression and nitrous.They ran much better.

Guys,

A plugs heat range is it's ability to dissipate heat and the temperature of the ceramic at the tip, not the temperature of the spark, that's relatively constant.

Changing the gap is used to control the spark duration and in extreme cases, like yours, enable the plug to fire at all. MSD said to lower your gap with compression and nitrous because of the increased pressure within the cylinder. This can actually cause the plug to misfire. Another way to compensated for Nitrous or boost is with increased current from an add-on system or a larger coil. (Kaz, remember your issues at the track with the marginal coil)

BTW, check the edit I made to my post, there is a cooler plug for the V-Rod ;)

I run a Permatune coil less system on my 930 and it allows me to run .050 gap with 1 bar of boost and I've never had an ignition related problem. They have a good white paper on ignition theory and they are always looking to work with specialty applications (Kaz) to resolve issues with turbo, SC and Nitrous problems. Here's the link http://www.permatune.com/ Give them a call, they usually will take as much time as you want to discuss their products, answer ignition theory questions, etc.

P.S. Check out their "plazma" ignition research

I use the Factory HD Plug #10R12A .I buy them by the Case an NOBODY MAKES A REPLACEMENT PLUG COOLER OR HOTTER!I have checked everyware and every company.I'm not sure were you got that NGK #? I have had three different Motorcycle and Hipo Automotive shops try and Cross refernce and they had Nothing!

Kaz,

I went to the NGK site and looked up the V-Rod plug, DCPR8E. I then did a search on DCPR9E, one heat range cooler and came up with a few links that compare the two. The DCPR9E is stock on some Aprilias. Here's a link with the 2 plugs. http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/plugs.html

Here's the link to NGK. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/motorcycles/

Dam !:notworthy I had the Harley Parts manager check NGK and every other plug maker and Nothing!I will get a few sets tomorrow and try some dyno testing next week!:diablo:

Thats some good tracking mjw930. Thanks for the information.

Max

Yes thats a Great alternative to the Factory JUNK!Is there a price listed?:cool:

Does NGK make a hotter plug?

vrodvinny for high performance you want a colder plug. For good low speed performance is the only time you would want a hotter plug.

Vinny,

There is a listing for a "7" heat range. Like Max said, I wouldn't go there.

Kaz,

These are ~$3.00 - $4.00 plugs, depending on quantity. There may be some availability issues, I've had trouble getting specific NGK's at local stores. I usually have to go online or special order. Your local Aprilia dealer should have the 9's since they are stock on the Falco.

Mark

See Thats was the Thing they were NOT AVAILABLE!:mad: I made a call this morning!:(

Kaz,

Here's some links, might be worth a call.

http://apriliaforum.safeshopper.com/32/512.htm?586

http://www.motodepot.com/street/engine/ngk/ngk_resistor.html

http://www.motorcyclemart.com/acc/ngk/ngkprices.htm
http://www.motorcyclemart.com/

http://www.clubplug.net/retail_complete_ngk.html

http://www.rockauto.com/

Kaz,

Here's some other numbers to search for.

DPR8EA-9
DPR7EA-9

These are the proper diameter, reach and heatrange but use a special construction end for wide gap (.9mm, .036")

:notworthy:icon_arro Mark

Kaz:icon_arro :fahr38

Mike:icon_arro :banghead

Ketsugo:icon_arro :diablo:

:cheers:

Now, talk about wierd, it looks like my wife's Blast uses the same plug as the V-Rod, according to the NGK site!:wazzup

Seems the DCPR8E has become a standard Harley plug. You should be able to find it in stock somewhere, maybe at an independant Harley shop. The DCPR9E (colder) looks to be a stock Aprilia plug so I'd look to those dealers. It also looks like the best online resource is http://www.ngk.com It looks like the storefront for a major NGK distributor.

Sorry for getting :offtopic :fahr38

Kaz said play with the gap.Get it hotter.And Max says hotter for low speed perf.Thats sounds like everyday riding(steet).That sounds like it would be more power withen street rpms.
Kaz must have tried it before the n2o,and found some power or else he wouldn't have mentioned it.
I beleive colder plugs foul out quicker under low loads and low rpms.Also take longer to get to operating temps(the plugs).

D@m another Trick Slips Out!:hiding:

The Denso Iridium plug (IXU24) gives me trouble free runs. The gap is factory set at .037. Stock HD plugs would foul over time
and or abuse. Exhaust is SE HD 16 Gage modified, K & N air
cleaner, cut off front of intake/bra and a Techlusion module with a
28T Turbo Tech front pully/Hd 04 Belt.

Originally posted by Super Kaz
I use the Factory HD Plug #10R12A .I buy them by the Case an NOBODY MAKES A REPLACEMENT PLUG COOLER OR HOTTER!I have checked everyware and every company.I'm not sure were you got that NGK #? I have had three different Motorcycle and Hipo Automotive shops try and Cross refernce and they had Nothing! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

BTW, they are $2.95 each.

AVAILABILITY KNUCKLE HEAD!:rolleyes: Nobody"in town" Stocked Them!!!!:(

When changing the plugs, do you have to remove the battery? It sure looks that way. I have removed it before and it is a hassle but pretty straight forward. Any other tips on replacing the plugs? I'll use the stock HD issue plugs as my bike has 4K on it and it is all stock. Also, is the torque setting for installing the plugs 17 pounds?

Ask SuperKaz , He is as experienced at this as a H-D tech.
BobT

Yes!I take the right side cover off.take fuse out.remove coolent tank.undo battery wires and rubber hold down strap.I use a phillip head swiveled on a socket with a 8 in extention to get the front allens on the coil.Same extention just with the plug socket on.Thata abot it. :cool:

Here's a little tip for removing the battery.Do not detach rubber strap from brackets.Scretch it uo to the tabs where the air box lid goes. ;)

Insider info:
while the battery is removed be sure to upgrade the battery bearings. :)

Shawn, are those sealed bearings? HUH :stilpoke: :laugh: :ride: :chair:

I was reading over your well researched comments about heat and plugs and this brings up a dumb question. Can this help solve my lean fuel mixture problem of running hot at certain speeds? I just had my bike dynoed and I like the power (117hp and 80 T) but at 80 mph the tech. says it will be running close to dangerously hot, above and below that speed it is OK. I do not have a PC and hate to invest in that if all I need is to lower the temp. Is there a simpler way to solve the problem (and cheaper)?
Thanks
Rusty

Kaz,

I went to the NGK site and looked up the V-Rod plug, DCPR8E. I then did a search on DCPR9E, one heat range cooler and came up with a few links that compare the two. The DCPR9E is stock on some Aprilias. Here's a link with the 2 plugs. http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/plugs.html

Here's the link to NGK. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/motorcycles/

If you are racing it go to a colder plug.But anyways you need to get it dyno tuned.Get the PC or the racetuner.
How did you make that much power without a PC or racetuner?

No Plug is Gonna Help the Wrong Tune Believe me I know! :hmm:

Rusty,

What tune (flash) do you have installed and what are your modifications. You must have some to get that number.

If it's only additional fuel then the best route is a Techlusion box. <$200 and VERY easy to tune. It will clear up that lean spot in 10 minutes.

Rusty,
You might have my email confused with someone else. Sorry, can't answer that question for you. The 117 HP sounds good though!
Dana

Vinny,

My set up... I modified my SE1's (gutted but molded the back plate (exit hole) into a reverse megaphone (for back pressure). The K&N filter and SE1 download from HD is the only other thing . They dynoed a bike just like mine that morning and lost power down to 88 hp and it had a PC111, the tech. says it was because of the Bubb exhaust. The tech. seems to know his stuff and I am very happy about the numbers except for the lean condition at highway speeds (75-85) I guess I will have to cruse at 90+. I think the pipe mods did the trick and I don't want to do anything to screw it up.
Rusty

If you are racing it go to a colder plug.But anyways you need to get it dyno tuned.Get the PC or the racetuner.
How did you make that much power without a PC or racetuner?

Got any pics of your SE1's?

reverse megaphone eh?
i wonder of they make those for kids aswell..lol

Just got a digital camera. Will take some shots soon and post it. Will I be able to meet you guys at Bike Week in Daytona?
Rusty

Got any pics of your SE1's?

I won't be making it this year.But quit a few from the forum will be going.
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2783
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1424