Can anybody who was there add some facts to what is/was happening up there??

I understand that 3 motors and at least 2 tranny's went up in smoke. I also understand that Harley is meeting on this issue "as we speak". Two of the guys who lost motors I know. 1 of the motors only has 12 passes on it and is in pieces down here in sunny Florida now waiting on Harley's feedback. As the troops said $10k for a new motor isn't a good investment if the core problem hasn't been identified yet.

If Harley doesn't get a handle on this real quick Destroyers are going to be on sale at "bargin prices" aka blue light specials.

Regards

Two words NO WARRANTY! Id be shocked if HD does anything.

i least anyone who bought one has a little money no financing on these babies cash only, ask kaz how many motors hes blown up

We did almost that much damage to ONE bike this winter! he he he he

its serious dragracing....not cheap, no payback.

UPSMAN:

I thought the Harley concept was the "Drag Bike In A Box". Extremly reliable at a low cost compared to other race bike programs.

Regards

I don't beleive that " Race Bike " and " reliable " can co exist in the same sentence..... :eek: :eek: :cheers:

Can anybody who was there add some facts to what is/was happening up there??

I understand that 3 motors and at least 2 tranny's went up in smoke. I also understand that Harley is meeting on this issue "as we speak". Two of the guys who lost motors I know. 1 of the motors only has 12 passes on it and is in pieces down here in sunny Florida now waiting on Harley's feedback. As the troops said $10k for a new motor isn't a good investment if the core problem hasn't been identified yet.

If Harley doesn't get a handle on this real quick Destroyers are going to be on sale at "bargin prices" aka blue light specials.

Regards

I have only been to one AHDRA event but out of the 30 or so VRXSE's at the event I didn't see a single one getting anything more than a clutch adjustment. I know the engine was dyno tested for 200 hours. So the question would have to be what broke on these bikes that you mention. Of course keep in mind that as UPSMAN says, if you race your most likely going to break something. But I do know the engines were designed to last two seasons but we also don't know what people might be tweaking on them.

i least anyone who bought one has a little money no financing on these babies cash only, ask kaz how many motors hes blown up
Hell I DID'NT EVEN GET TO BREAK THEM ALL MYSELF:( "Had a Couple come apart while on Gil's Dyno:eek: ",and Guess who Had to pay for ALL THAT R&D:broke:;) :kaz: !
Ask Paul Diener how Many Motor's He's Gone Through Perfecting His Big Bores:deal: !
It's a Very $$$$$ Hobbie:cuckoo !!!

Personally, I didn’t think it was Harley’s intention to sell a professional level drag bike. More like sell a bike that you could use as a weekend racer on the track advertised as a Professional Level Drag Bike, with of course the price tag. I’m curious like everyone else as to what broke and if the bike was modified after purchase. If not, Harleys got a big problem. There is of course the 180+ horsepower Street Legal Non Harley alternative, but what fun is that.

Max and everyone:

My understanding is that nothing was changed internally on any of the bikes (everyone is subject to the teardown rule for the class). that's why I am curious.

I'll know a little more after this weekend IF the one motor here in Florida is ready to go back together and I'll let everyone know what I find out.

Regards

DAMAGE UPDATE FIELD TRIP

Yesterday I had the opportunity to look at the "broken parts" first hand. It seems that the water pump shaft bolt wasn't torqued down during the factory assembly process and locktite used properly. After 10 runs the shaft bolt worked loose and caused the "O" ring on the other end to cover up the oil hole in the shaft. That blocked the oil going down to the lower end and the rod bearings melted and "welded" themselves to the crank. The rods locked up the motor at about 100mph and caused a loss of clean underwear before the clutch was pulled in to take the load off and the bike was straightened up and brought to a safe stop.

FWIW: The rods are stamped "Made in Germany" on the edges. They are bent but they didn't break. NEAT desk top discussion toys.

As I understand this is not a new problem for HD although it hadn't happened to a motor with so few runs on it.

Damage--- Both case halves need to be replaced, the crank is "toast" as are the pistons, rings and bearings so far.

HD is "going to help--some" but the exact nature of that is unknown at this point in time.

The bike should be ready for the Oregon event next month IF all goes well.

I'm at the edge of my knowledge here so the REAL EXPERTS on here can chime in and correct me where they see fit.

UPSMAN PLEASE CHECK THIS STUFF OUT ON YOUR RIDE.

Regards.

FWIW: If you have access to a V-Rod Parts Catalog, please go to Page 12 Water Pump & Thermostat and you can see a picture of the parts in question.

Please look at Item 6,7 and 3 there is a "O" ring between the gear and the shaft shown that has a oiling hole which was blocked when the bolt worked loose.

Regards

Loss of lubrication seems to be an issue on some engines, unfortunately I'm presently facing the same problem with my VRSCA turbo engine and had a very close look into this matter.
Thanks for the info but I disagree: the oil supply of the water pump shaft should not interfere with the rod&main bearing oil supply the way you described it - see attached picture.
Rather then blocking the system I assume that the leakage rate through the water pump shaft assembly got so big that the oil pressure dropped too low.
Or the shaft moved and caused the valve train to collaps?

Jan

The oil enters the shaft on the alternator side and exits on the clutch side where it drains into the sump through an open bore inside the upper housing.

I am not foolish enough to debate the tech stuff with you. You are far more qualified than I am!! I just repeated what I understood the problem was by the rider/mechanic and looked at the damaged parts. He is still waiting on the case halves, the crank, the rods rings and bearings to put things back together. The bearings were "welded" to the crank so there must have bee no oil at all there.

I am glad you decided to check the torque on the shaft bolt and to be sure it is red locktited. If something goes wrong now it will be

Regards

Does anyone make a high pressure/high volume oil pump for the V Rod? Even a bigger spring for the oil pump to get the pressure up a little may help. Any ideas?

Mike

I don't beleive that " Race Bike " and " reliable " can co exist in the same sentence..... :eek: :eek: :cheers:

CBR600RR

When at it's peak that oil pump is putting out well over 100psi, the pump is over the top and doesn't need upgraded.

Elgavilan:

I don't know if he makes one already BUT Baisley makes heavier springs for the Twin Cams 15% and 30%, He does head work and a ton of other racing stuff so he may have a solution for you.

Regards.

Jerry

Does anyone make a high pressure/high volume oil pump for the V Rod? Even a bigger spring for the oil pump to get the pressure up a little may help. Any ideas?

Mike


check this:
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41855

When at it's peak that oil pump is putting out well over 100psi, the pump is over the top and doesn't need upgraded.

Any info on what rpm it peaks out at? I wish these bikes came with an oil pressure gauge.

Mike

Mike,

After my motor seized the crank and rod bearings due to the oil pump pressure relief valve being partially stuck open, causing lowered oil pressure, I had a think about things, The oil light is turned off at a mere 2 psi!!! Not nearly enough pressure - so I installed an oil pressure guage-it is really easy!
Custom Chrome has a host of various guages - some that go up to 100psi.
I found a fitting that screws into the gallery where the oil pressure switch is(a fitting that comes in the HD oil pressure guage kit for BT's) The oil pressure guage screws into it. I then made a braided line that goes from the fitting to the guage which I mounted on the h/bar with a machined aluminium bracket.
I also shimmed the oil pump pressure relief valve spring .050".

A 1320 Wiseco kit with Megacycle cams, D&D 2-1, topless, bottomless motor, not running right at all on a PC 3 coz I didnt have the latest RT software, with see-through translucent glowing pipes (read HOT hot hot!!!), at idle never saw lower than 35psi on the guage, and was capped at 85psi max.

FYI

Elgavilan:

Another thought would the Destroyer oil pump work??

Regards