Im trying to weed out the exhaust mod options. Am I correct in thinking that the Vmod pipes will work correctly (as in make more power) with a K&N filter and the HD flash for Screaming Eagle pipes? I dont want to spend the money for dyno and tuner, but more into an effective and easy option.
All the talk of putting on pipes and LOOSING HP is what I want to avoid.
Also, does Vmod simply take out the entire baffle and put a screen on the end? How loud is that? Like straight pipes on another bike?
Thanks,
Sam

Adam, I would offer that V-Mods, K&N and flash are going to give you the most bang for your buck and will yield ~ +10 hp. I have yet to hear of anyone that got their pipes mod'd that weren't happy with them. I wanted the low gutteral roar without out the hi freqency crack and that's what I got. (I think straight pipes sound low budge.) Steve removes the inner baffle -- no screen.
Effective and easy option for min $ .... I think your on the right track.

I run that exact set up and the bike has never missed a beat!

Which flash are we talking about guy's? i.e. HD p/n and do you use the same flash with a 28t?

Since HD took the SE parts off the website there's no way for us mere mortals to get the part numbers. The catalog doesn't list the calibration part numbers either, only that there are 5 calibrations available for the V-Rod:

28T only
Slipons w/30T
16ga w/30T
Slipons w/28T
16ga w/28T

It also says in the catalog that all calibrations work with or without the top (I see where Rick was getting his info).

Maybe HD has consolidated it's calibrations and has updated everything to the newest program and simply sets the flag for the pulley size like they do with the Race Tuner. It would make sense that they would clean up their calibration database and the flash's to reduce the number of available part numbers.

Sounds like a good question for the V-Rod tech team next Friday ;)

I am picking up SE 16 gauge this weekend but wanted to know what if anyone has sent the baffles to v-mod? What does it consist of? Can I perform the vmod myself and spend the 150 on something else?

http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2993&highlight=v-modded+exhaust

I modded my exhaust here are some pics of the baffle it makes it easier to understand once you see it. :spank: :spank:

I am picking up SE 16 gauge this weekend but wanted to know what if anyone has sent the baffles to v-mod? What does it consist of? Can I perform the vmod myself and spend the 150 on something else?

If you have never done this before...You are a brave man. Think about this...If you screw up you are out the whole set, you can't bye just baffles and try again...All these possible problems to save 150.00 bucks.. Let Steve do it for you and I promise you will have spent your 150.00 vary wisely.....

Remember different people are good at different things... thats what makes the world go round....

I just ot me SE V-modded Slip ons back from Steve Today. Great group of guys to deal with. And the do excellent work. I can't wait to hear my bike once they are on. Don't screw with trying to do it yourself. Spend the $125-$150 dollars and get it done right. You won't be sorry! :ride: :kaz:

Adamsg, if you would like to hear how certain pipes sound, you should check out this thread http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2347

Could someone who has heard both tell me the difference between the SE Slip ons and stock mufflers that have been v-modded?

I would like a bit of a description of the difference if I could get one - at idle, normal riding (ie moderate), when you are grabbing a fistfull and cruising at 70 to 80 MPH.

I have the SE slip on's and am thinking about sending my stockers (when the bastards actually return them) to Chopper Steve. The little Aussie bolter has gone from 49 US to 80 us cents since I bought the bike, so it's looking a lot better now for direct purchases from the USA. Ask Ken - the rotten scumbags here at Harley dealers still charge about double what things cost over there, sometimes more. Either they are cleaning up on the exchange rate and think everyone is too stoopid to realise or they have a very messed up deal with the MoCo and are getting equally screwed.

I am picking up SE 16 gauge this weekend but wanted to know what if anyone has sent the baffles to v-mod? What does it consist of? Can I perform the vmod myself and spend the 150 on something else?

SE and 16 ga are a hole differt animal. SE the baffel is welded in 16 ga. baffel is only held in by a set screw. They are simpel to remove (16 ga. ) You can remove packing and or baffel plate then just slip them back in and go.

Karl,

I bought the SE slip ons a few weeks after I got the bike. I think once these break in they sound decent. Let me clarify. They sound pretty much like stock when you are idling however when you crank on the throttle they sound decent. Not great, but decent - much better than stock. But I don't need to tell you this since you have the SE slip ons.

After about a month of using the SE slip ons I still wasn't happy with the sound so I sent my stock pipes to Steve to see what they would sound like - for $150 I figured I couldn't go wrong. If I didn't like them I'd just stick with the SE slip ons. Well, I haven't taken the stock V-moded pipes off since I put them on last summer. There is a definite rumble at idle (that both stock and the SE slip ons don't have) and a HUGE rumble when you crank on the throttle - enough to set of car alarms. At cruising speeds it's also pretty loud. Loud enough that if I went on long trips a lot (all day trips) I would wear ear plugs - or slip the SEs back on just for that trip. Without ear plugs I think that constant rumble would be too much for me - but that's just me.

Therefore, if I was you I would definitely get your stock ones V-moded. They really do make the bike sound more like a Harley. Besides, if you don't like the loud rumble for long trips, you still have your SEs.

Thanks Craig. I was a LITTLE disappointed by the sound of the SE's, and now that I'm used to them I am starting to think they are really too quiet for just around the place and 1 to 2 hour rides. It sounds like the v-mod stockers and the SE slip ons gives the best of both worlds, run on the same tune (IF THIS IS WRONG SOMEONE ALERT ME NOW!) and can be changed out pretty quickly (say 15 minutes, anyone ever posted a how to?)

I like the stock look and think all the time the design guys went to on them was well spent. The weight is a minor issue for me. I was after looks and sound without reduced ground clearance and with MORE power and there is no after market pipe that rings my bell for all those criteria.

So it looks like I will stump up and ship them over soon.

What is the best way to pack them and who is the best to ship comething like this with do you think?

If you still have your boxes from your SE slip ons use them - that's what I used and it worked great! If not, see if your dealer can get you the boxes.

I totally agree with you Karl. I love the looks of the stock pipe and there is nothing else out there I think that looks nearly as good. Perhaps I am giving up some extra ponies by not going to a 2 into 1 pipe, however the horse power gain with an after market pipe is not worth sacrificing the looks of the bike - the stock pipes suit the the lines of the bike like no other pipe. I've changed pretty much everything else on my bike, but this is one change I will not be making. Just my 2 cents.

I've had the stock pipes, V-Mods and V-Mod Se's on the bike and I like the V-Mod SE's the best. Chopper Steve summed it up best. V-Mod stock pipes are for the blvd. cruising, they sound great, loud and low. V-Mod SE's are for the longer trips, nice rumble at idle, great bark when you get on them and no droning at highway speeds.

I noticed the V-Mods made my ears ring after 100 miles with a full face. The V-Mod SE's don't.

Mark

SE and 16 ga are a hole differt animal. SE the baffel is welded in 16 ga. baffel is only held in by a set screw. They are simpel to remove (16 ga. ) You can remove packing and or baffel plate then just slip them back in and go.
Thanks REDBUD----I thought it had to be pretty simplistic if you just sent the baffels in. Sounds like you can take baby steps. Remove the packing and if that is not all you wanted it to be then remove the plate. What do you guys think of TFI installed by HD. They can tweek and tune til there hearts are content. Serious question: After the self v-mod can I ride my bike to the dealer 70 miles away or is that disastrous?

Thanks REDBUD----I thought it had to be pretty simplistic if you just sent the baffels in. Sounds like you can take baby steps. Remove the packing and if that is not all you wanted it to be then remove the plate. What do you guys think of TFI installed by HD. They can tweek and tune til there hearts are content. Serious question: After the self v-mod can I ride my bike to the dealer 70 miles away or is that disastrous?

Your bike will run fine with self v-mod the guys here just said you shouldn't run the SE air cleaner topless without getting it tuned runs maybe alittle lean.
I run mine with self modded pipes and it hasn't missed a beat as soon as I get the SE air filter i'm going to get mine tunned. :2cents:

...however the horse power gain with an after market pipe is not worth sacrificing the looks of the bike - the stock pipes suit the the lines of the bike like no other pipe....

That is the same conclusion I have come to. It sounds like the dealer flash for pipes/filter/topless should be sufficient with the stock v-mods. I would love to get the RT but the money tree is no longer bearing its fruit.

edit: Thinking of the flashes - which do you think would be better - SE or 16ga flash?

I understood that the flash for SE slip ons and the SE airfilter (or K and N) was fine for V Mods, BUT NOT TOPLESS. I understood you ran dangerously lean if you went topless with this standard HD SE Slip on flash/product group.

I want to do a modified top to get the air without the induction noise, but was pretty sure I also needed to get another flash and/or tune with PC3r or HD Race Tuner.

Whats the deal lads?

That's my understanding too Karl. You need a different flash (or tuning) if you run topless, or a modified top, with the SE Slip ons/V-mods and the K & N filter. In fact, HD has a flash specifically for this configuration. It will also adjust for the 28 tooth sprocket.

For those with a cash flow issue here's the best solution IMHO

V-Mods
SE Filter
Topless
Techlusion

Total cost less than the RT by itself :eek: You should be able to get close using their setup instructions and a few cheap dyno passes will clean it up even more.

I Did'nt Get My Info From The Catalog.i Get It From
Harley As They Update Us Weekly.i Will Post A Copy
Of It Later Today.for All To See.

HERE'S A COPY OF HARLEYS DOWN LOADS AND PART NUMBERS.
THE FIRST PAGE IS FOR THE V-ROD. ENJOY :vrod:

Rick,

I didn't mean to insinuate you were getting info just from the catalog ;) In the past there was no mention of running the older calibration without the air box. It was only on the new flash that included the 28T calibration where they mentioned removing the cover. It seems they have either changed their mind or updated the calibrations for the 30T to accommodate topless. Interesting info in that update document. It shows 2 separate part numbers and calibrations for the '02 and up with 30T, a 32008-02 and a 32008-02A and no references to the differences. I suspect the -02 is the older calibration and the -02A has updated VE's to accommodate topless (Just my guess!)

You probably wouldn't be surprised how many dealers ignore the updates you referenced and simply crack open whatever book is on the counter and punch in that part number....... :(

I especially hate the way they refer the to V-Rod flashes as "Stage 1" and "Stage 2"...... There's no such thing as a Stage 1 or Stage 2 for the V-Rod, it's either Slip Fit or 16 ga. If they can't even get the terminology right how can I trust them to know which calibration to order? :spank:

Rick,

I didn't mean to insinuate you were getting info just from the catalog ;) In the past there was no mention of running the older calibration without the air box. It was only on the new flash that included the 28T calibration where they mentioned removing the cover. It seems they have either changed their mind or updated the calibrations for the 30T to accommodate topless. Interesting info in that update document. It shows 2 separate part numbers and calibrations for the '02 and up with 30T, a 32008-02 and a 32008-02A and no references to the differences. I suspect the -02 is the older calibration and the -02A has updated VE's to accommodate topless (Just my guess!)

You probably wouldn't be surprised how many dealers ignore the updates you referenced and simply crack open whatever book is on the counter and punch in that part number....... :(

I especially hate the way they refer the to V-Rod flashes as "Stage 1" and "Stage 2"...... There's no such thing as a Stage 1 or Stage 2 for the V-Rod, it's either Slip Fit or 16 ga. If they can't even get the terminology right how can I trust them to know which calibration to order? :spank:

WELL AS YOU CAN SEE THEY DONT MAKE IT EASY FOR US EITHER.
THEY DONT SHARE WHAT THEY IMPROVED OR CHANGED. WE JUST
USE THE LATEST AVAIL.OR HAVE TO CALL THEM FOR THIER IN-PUT.
I WILL SAY IF YOU DEVIATE FROM THIER PROGRAM DONT USE THIER
DOWNLOAD. USE R/T OR PCIIIR. :hmm:

Ok,
Im bidding on a set of stock pipes on Ebay (no one here better start bidding on them!!!) and will go with the V-mod, K&N, topless option.
Now the question of which flash? Whats the best flash for a 28 tooth with v mod pipes? The HD part list doesnt really say "28 tooth, Vmod, topless".

PS 61 miles till breakin is over. Cant wait to open her up....
PSS Im going with the second set of pipes because Im worried the vmods will be too loud. Option B is to go with SE. I like the stock look.

I agree but you could send Steve your SE mufflers to br mod'd

I'm leaning toward recommending the Techlusion for simple pipe/air filter updates for people who really don't have the time, money or skills to play with the programs. If all you are going to do is add fuel then you don't need the PCIII or RT, the Techlusion will get you there for a lot less time and money. Of course it doesn't reset the speedo.

In that case I would go with the SE Slip On flash for the 28T and add a Techlusion unless you're like me and like playing with the programs in the RT.

I have just replaced my H-D 16ga. pipes. Replaced them with 2-1 D&D system, great sound and good quality.

I've Not Wanted To Comment About This Before, But What The Heck.
There Are Several Products Besides The Tec.box That Does The
Same Thing But Cheaper. One Being D.f.o.from Custom Chrome.
Horse Power Inc. Has The Same Thing. They Are All Injector
Drivers. Just So You Know.

V-MOD your stocks. I counldnt be happyer. Its alsome. :boobs:









www.freewebs.com/speeddemonvrod/

I've Not Wanted To Comment About This Before, But What The Heck.
There Are Several Products Besides The Tec.box That Does The
Same Thing But Cheaper. One Being D.f.o.from Custom Chrome.
Horse Power Inc. Has The Same Thing. They Are All Injector
Drivers. Just So You Know.
Rick,

Don't ever hold back, the forum is all about sharing knowledge. I thought the DFO was private labeled from Techlusion?? Hadn't heard about the Horse Power, Inc. box, thanks :thumb: ;)

BTW, the Techlusion and HorsePower Inc. both retail for $189 and the DFO retails for $219 according to their web sites so I don't see the "cheaper" part ???

Ok,
Im bidding on a set of stock pipes on Ebay (no one here better start bidding on them!!!) and will go with the V-mod, K&N, topless option.
Now the question of which flash? Whats the best flash for a 28 tooth with v mod pipes? The HD part list doesnt really say "28 tooth, Vmod, topless".

PS 61 miles till breakin is over. Cant wait to open her up....
PSS Im going with the second set of pipes because Im worried the vmods will be too loud. Option B is to go with SE. I like the stock look.

So whats the answer to this question?? I am doing the same thing.
Brent

I think I'm ready to have Steve V-Mod my stock pipes. I have read through lots of threads, but am still unclear on what is the simplest way to accomplish this. I see that Steve offers a kit "Package 1" with PowerCommander and SE airfilter. I will just send in my pipes so I don't actually need the package. Is this a "plug and play" way to go?

Thanks for the help in advance :plause:

So whats the answer to this question?? I am doing the same thing.
Brent
The answer is you need 1 of 4 things to run V-Mods and the SE air filter.

1. SE Slip Fit ECM flash
2. Race Tuner using the SE map (RT specific maps should be showing up soon)
3. Techlusion / DFO / Race Fueler
4. PCIIIr

The choice is yours, all the pros and cons are in numerous threads right here.