So I'm a little confused. The general consensus seems to be that going from 1130 CC to the SE 1250 (+ 10.6%) results in pretty much of a ho-hum performance differential. Yet, going up another 80 CC (+ 6.4%) transforms the bike altogether. This seems a little counter-intuitive.

Or is it the other supplemental stuff that’s typically done at the same time as the 1230 conversion (cams, valves, throttle bodies, etc.) That really makes the big difference?

Thanks in advance.

AK

I think its all relative..
If you were to ride a 1130 and a 1250 back to back you would love the 1250 and woun't think twice about it..
If you were to ride the 1130, 1250 and 1320 back to back you would love the 1320 because relative to the other two it has more power..

I think the reason the 1320 is the popular choice when compared to the 1250 and because the conversions cost about the same so if you are spending thet type of money rather go for the bigger bang..

Obviously if you took a 1320, 1440 and 1550 out back to back you would probably find the 1320 a little soft..
Of course your bank account won't like you much after opting for the 1550.. :)

I think its all relative..
If you were to ride a 1130 and a 1250 back to back you would love the 1250 and woun't think twice about it..
If you were to ride the 1130, 1250 and 1320 back to back you would love the 1320 because relative to the other two it has more power..

I think the reason the 1320 is the popular choice when compared to the 1250 and because the conversions cost about the same so if you are spending thet type of money rather go for the bigger bang..

Obviously if you took a 1320, 1440 and 1550 out back to back you would probably find the 1320 a little soft..
Of course your bank account won't like you much after opting for the 1550.. :)
But the smile factor of a 1550 outweighs everything else.

But the smile factor of a 1550 outweighs everything else.

:sinister:

PD: I'll see you tomorrow with Jeff...:diablo:

I think its all relative..
If you were to ride a 1130 and a 1250 back to back you would love the 1250 and woun't think twice about it..
If you were to ride the 1130, 1250 and 1320 back to back you would love the 1320 because relative to the other two it has more power..

I think the reason the 1320 is the popular choice when compared to the 1250 and because the conversions cost about the same so if you are spending thet type of money rather go for the bigger bang..

Obviously if you took a 1320, 1440 and 1550 out back to back you would probably find the 1320 a little soft..
Of course your bank account won't like you much after opting for the 1550.. :)

Very well said WipeOut...:thumb:

I think its all relative..
If you were to ride a 1130 and a 1250 back to back you would love the 1250 and woun't think twice about it..
If you were to ride the 1130, 1250 and 1320 back to back you would love the 1320 because relative to the other two it has more power..

I think the reason the 1320 is the popular choice when compared to the 1250 and because the conversions cost about the same so if you are spending thet type of money rather go for the bigger bang..

Obviously if you took a 1320, 1440 and 1550 out back to back you would probably find the 1320 a little soft..
Of course your bank account won't like you much after opting for the 1550.. :)
THE DIFFERENCE IN SEAT OF THE PANTS PERFORMANCE IS REALLY WELL DEFINED WHEN YOU STROKE THE ENGINE (1320 TO 143O) HAD I KNOWN THAT BEFORE MY 1320 BUILD I WOULD OF DONE THE 1430 THEN. THE INCREASED TORQ. IS FUN ABOVE 100 FT.LBS ALSO KNOWN AS THE SMILE
FACTOR.:D

Just curious, what are the rough dollars for each increase from the 1130
1250 =$
1320 =$
1440 =$
1550 =$

Thanks for your input, I need to know what to ask Santa for.

Just ask for a blank check, so you can fill it in

Just curious, what are the rough dollars for each increase from the 1130
1250 =$
1320 =$
1440 =$
1550 =$

Thanks for your input, I need to know what to ask Santa for.
This thread may be usefull..
http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28035

1250 The wife will never know
1320 Sure hope she doesn't find out
1440 She's gonna be real pissed
1550 Sure is quiet around here. She could have at least left one of the dogs.
I'm so sad I think I'll go for a ride. See Ya
Dale

One of the advantages of a 1320 (as explained by Rick in an earlier post) is you have the cases bored the right size to add a stroker later if you want.

Dale

1430 is the way to go....1320+.25" stroke=substantial/worthwhile torque increase

I have read on here that the only Diff Between a 1320 BB And a 1430 is the
1430 has a shorter Rod (stroke)
So, My question is, Can you change the Rods in a 1250 to get any more beans?

I have read on here that the only Diff Between a 1320 BB And a 1430 is the
1430 has a shorter Rod (stroke)
So, My question is, Can you change the Rods in a 1250 to get any more beans?
It has a shorter rod because the crank is stroked, meaning it runs in a slightly larger circle so the shorter rods stop it pushing the piston through the head.. The pistons on a stroked engines usually have different skirts to clear the crank on the bottom of the stroke as well..

I am sure with the right pistons and rods you could probably stroke a 1250 but the pro's are the best guys to answer that for sure..

...
So, My question is, Can you change the Rods in a 1250 to get any more beans?
Been wondering the same thing.

1430 will have a different crank, rods and pistons from the 1320

1430 will have a different crank, rods and pistons from the 1320
That's not what the falicon site says.Says you can use standard pistons w/the 1430 crank and shorter rods. http://www.faliconcranks.com/hd.htm

How reliable do you feel with the 1450? I Like long trips without standing on the side of the road scratching my head wondering what the ....

Sorry, 1430.

Well, Badrod won the KC dyno shootout with 246hp with his 1550, then rode at least 100 miles immediately afterwards. So maybe the 1430 is even more reliable some say. I rode Badrod and wouldn't go smaller than a 1550.

One thing to remember if you have any thoughts about Land Speed Racing is the classes are divided into 1000cc, 1350cc,1650,cc,2000cc,3000cc! So if you want to set some World Records your gonna have to go Super Fast in the 1650cc Class"259+mph:notworth: "1350 is 233+mph,1000cc is 219+mph" just something to think about if you ever want to race your bikes;) .

One thing to remember if you have any thoughts about Land Speed Racing is the classes are divided into 1000cc, 1350cc,1650,cc,2000cc,3000cc! So if you want to set some World Records your gonna have to go Super Fast in the 1650cc Class"259+mph:notworth: "1350 is 233+mph,1000cc is 219+mph" just something to think about if you ever want to race your bikes;) .

Kaz -you are the only one I know of on a VRod trying to set land speed records - so I do not know if that matters to most folks - but just for curiousity what is the 2000 record. I think the other issue is that those record that you are talking are for blown.... what are the records for naturally aspirated in those classes?
KSP

and if those are the records, how can your 200 be a record in any of them?

and, FYI, there are other forms of racing than LSR.....with better coverage on any form of media....

I think Kaz's record is for a V-Twin class..

I believe the cc limits he referred to ARE Vtwin classes......

I think Kaz's record is for a V-Twin class..
Thank you wipeout:thumb: !There is No OHC V-Twin Class so we have to go against the inline 4's"Hyabusa's"in AMA and FIM or as my Good Freind John Noonan said"if you had Pushrods you'd be a god:wazzup: " ,but at the BUB International Motorcycle speed Trials they had a Top time for V-Twin-American,Metric V-Twin European,and Metric V-Twin Japanese.Check out how much Faster I went on my V-rod then the other V-twin before you start talking smack :biker: LSR Racing for Motorcycles is Very New but don't knock it till you try it and believe me I've raced everything and Nothing is as Exciting as going 200+mph for 5-10miles"short & long course" on the Salt Flats:coff: .http://www.speedtrialsbybub.com/

I wasn't talking smack, just the way I understood it......Seriously thanx for clarifying......however, I don't know how going 200 in LSR can be NEARLY as exciting as doing it in a 1/4 mile without a bar.....best of both worlds....200mph and getting there in 7 seconds.....

I wasn't talking smack, just the way I understood it......Seriously thanx for clarifying......however, I don't know how going 200 in LSR can be NEARLY as exciting as doing it in a 1/4 mile without a bar.....best of both worlds....200mph and getting there in 7 seconds.....
I will say the first 60ft on a Pro Stock Bike is Pretty INSANE:twisted: ,but it's over way to Fast!I love BOTH 1/4 mile Drag Racing and LSR on Salt,Dirt or asphalt:cheers: !Checking into a NOPI Shootout Setup for next year that should be CRAZY:eek: Now back to our Regular subject BB:cheers: .

One of the advantages of a 1320 (as explained by Rick in an earlier post) is you have the cases bored the right size to add a stroker later if you want.

Dale

Hold on! I had my cases bored by zippers for my 1320. You mean I dont have to get the cases redone to stroke it????????????????????????????????

Hold on! I had my cases bored by zippers for my 1320. You mean I dont have to get the cases redone to stroke it????????????????????????????????
you got it 6mm stroke and you gat a 1430:sinister:

you got it 6mm stroke and you gat a 1430:sinister:

DONT FORGET PISTONS.(STROKER)

How reliable do you feel with the 1450? I Like long trips without standing on the side of the road scratching my head wondering what the ....

MY 1430 HAS AS ALMOST AS MANY MILES AS MY 1320 (750 LESS)RUNS
10.60'S IN THE 1/4. 147 H.P. AT THE REAR WHEEL WITH NO PROBLEMS.
DOSENT MEAN I WONT CHANGE SOME THINGS BUT I CAN'T LEAVE IT ALONE
WHEN SNOW IS INVOLVED.:mrgr:

Rick,
What combination of parts would it take to stroke the stock bore size?
Dale

DONT FORGET PISTONS.(STROKER)
How bout the crank. Is it the falicon full circle or the modified stock crank most of you guys are running?? Stock rods ??

You can run a modified 6mm crank but to go to a 12 mm stroke you have to run a billet crank. Good rods are not an option if you want longjevity, this all from personal experience! By the way Eagle HD does offer a 1600cc street kit for those that just want the most at the same cost of the 1550.

You can run a modified 6mm crank but to go to a 12 mm stroke you have to run a billet crank. Good rods are not an option if you want longjevity, this all from personal experience! By the way Eagle HD does offer a 1600cc street kit for those that just want the most at the same cost of the 1550.
I read that you could use the 1320 wiseco pistons (not stroker pistons) with a smaller rod to stroke the bike to 1430. Question??? how does a 3mm shorter rod enable you to stroke to 1430 with a 6mm stroker crank???

You can run a modified 6mm crank but to go to a 12 mm stroke you have to run a billet crank. Good rods are not an option if you want longjevity, this all from personal experience! By the way Eagle HD does offer a 1600cc street kit for those that just want the most at the same cost of the 1550.
:welcome: To the site FAST GUY!!!;) :kaz:

I read that you could use the 1320 wiseco pistons (not stroker pistons) with a smaller rod to stroke the bike to 1430. Question??? how does a 3mm shorter rod enable you to stroke to 1430 with a 6mm stroker crank???
3mm at the top of the stroke and 3mm at the bottom of the stroke..

You can run a modified 6mm crank but to go to a 12 mm stroke you have to run a billet crank. Good rods are not an option if you want longjevity, this all from personal experience! By the way Eagle HD does offer a 1600cc street kit for those that just want the most at the same cost of the 1550.
Larry, when did that become available? You know there are a few guys down here in Florida that would have been interested in that.

1600???? Why you'd need a Bulldozer to hold that back!!! LOL!!!

...By the way Eagle HD does offer a 1600cc street kit...

:sinister:

Larry, when did that become available? You know there are a few guys down here in Florida that would have been interested in that.
Bob,if ya woulda not called it an early night and joined us in the Best Western lobby sunday night,Fireplace talking with Diener,ya woulda found that out.JamieMac's engine in AMA was bigger than that.;)

Bob,if ya woulda not called it an early night and joined us in the Best Western lobby sunday night,Fireplace talking with Diener,ya woulda found that out.JamieMac's engine in AMA was bigger than that.;)
1770 something to be exact:twisted: !Paul ain't sharing though"I asked him for one 2 years ago:helpme: "He has some Sick piece lying around Eagle HD:banghead: !

I talked to Paul yesterday and he said that although they do have that size and bigger they don't have enough street miles on it to sell it as a reliable street package untill they are sure. Can't beat these guys, just because they can do it doesn't mean they want to put something on the street they aren't absolutely sure will give trouble free miles to their customers.

1770 something to be exact:twisted: !Paul ain't sharing though"I asked him for one 2 years ago:helpme: "He has some Sick piece lying around Eagle HD:banghead: !

1550..1550...1550, Do I hear 16... 16, 1600..1600...1600, Do I hear 17... 17, 1700...1700...1700, Do I hear 18... LOL!!!

3mm at the top of the stroke and 3mm at the bottom of the stroke..
Anyone have experience with a 1430 using Wiseco standard pistons,
Falicon .25 inch crank and Falicon .125" shorter titanium rods????

I realize the displacement gain is minimal but, does anybody overbore & stroke their motors? Seems its the stock bore w/ 1/8 inch or 1/4 strokers or go yee-ha & replace the barrells.

I realize the displacement gain is minimal but, does anybody overbore & stroke their motors? Seems its the stock bore w/ 1/8 inch or 1/4 strokers or go yee-ha & replace the barrells.
If you replaced your rods with the short ones that Eagle H-D use in their stroker motor could you put in a 6mm crank with your stock pistons and liners and increase you displacement without any machine work

If you replaced your rods with the short ones that Eagle H-D use in their stroker motor could you put in a 6mm crank with your stock pistons and liners and increase you displacement without any machine work
Wouldn't the piston skirts on the stock pistons be too long for a stroked build causing them to hit the crank?

Wouldn't the piston skirts on the stock pistons be too long for a stroked build causing them to hit the crank?

Yes stroker piston have shorter skirts

Wouldn't the piston skirts on the stock pistons be too long for a stroked build causing them to hit the crank?
I called Larry at Eagle H-D and ask about stock bore Stroker motor. He said that they cut piston clearance in-house and that would be a good plan that he has been wanting to try. He felt that the motor would perform similar to the H-D big bore with 1230cc at a engine total build cost of around 2000 to 2500. He also said that he had all parts in stock and if I sent him motor it could be done in about one week.

did he tell you how much for just the parts?

I called Larry at Eagle H-D and ask about stock bore Stroker motor. He said that they cut piston clearance in-house and that would be a good plan that he has been wanting to try. He felt that the motor would perform similar to the H-D big bore with 1230cc at a engine total build cost of around 2000 to 2500. He also said that he had all parts in stock and if I sent him motor it could be done in about one week.
Well it would be interesting to see the performance.. especially at that price..

did he tell you how much for just the parts?
He said the parts would be around 1400-1500 but never went and looked to be exact. Just give Larry a call I think his number is 765-448-9132.

He felt that the motor would perform similar to the H-D big bore with 1230cc at a engine total build cost of around 2000 to 2500. He also said that he had all parts in stock and if I sent him motor it could be done in about one week. Wouldn't it have more torque,then a SE 1250BB?

Wouldn't it have more torque,then a SE 1250BB?
Would probably have more torque in the mid range than the SE1250 because of the longer stroke but may not have the same HP at full revs.. Also it will have a much higher piston velocity which is a concern..

Would probably have more torque in the mid range than the SE1250 because of the longer stroke but may not have the same HP at full revs.. Also it will have a much higher piston velocity which is a concern..
Wouldn't the piston speed be only about 7% more that stock? I thought Larry told me that they turn the 1/2" stroke motors 9200 with out problems and that would be 14% more piston speed.

Cost of shorter rod VS set of custom pistons? Why not leave the stock rod in the motor, stroke it & get pistons made? Other than moving the pin up, possibly into the oil ring groove & sacraficing contact area on the thrust face. I understand you'd have to notch the skirts regardless. Is there a reason not to go this route?

Cost of shorter rod VS set of custom pistons? Why not leave the stock rod in the motor, stroke it & get pistons made? Other than moving the pin up, possibly into the oil ring groove & sacraficing contact area on the thrust face. I understand you'd have to notch the skirts regardless. Is there a reason not to go this route?
When I talked to Larry he said that was also a option but he would have to have pistons built with cost being about the same, and a 6to8 week wait. Also stated that if you later choose to big bore you would have to buy new pistons again and the rods so just buy rods now instead of pistons.

Reading all this stuff about big bore setups has given me the bug and I am now trying to figure out how to do the big bore on a budget. What do you think about this plan for a 1320. I buy all the parts and get the machining done to the top half of the case and provide all the labor myself. This would be for a big bore done right capable of race track duty and with street mannors. I already have the Race Tuner and exhaust pipe needed and I am pretty good with a wrench and a micrometer and the race tuner/AFR meter.

Wiseco bigbore kit ................$960
Carrillo rods..........................$600
Bore Case............................$950
Web street cams .................$535
Bore throttle body ................$300
Slot cam sprockets................$100
Total for parts.....................$3445

Man, that is still a lot of dough and that does not include shipping out here to Hawaii. I guess I will have to keep an eye on ebay for parts, eh?

Mike

Reading all this stuff about big bore setups has given me the bug and I am now trying to figure out how to do the big bore on a budget. What do you think about this plan for a 1320. I buy all the parts and get the machining done to the top half of the case and provide all the labor myself. This would be for a big bore done right capable of race track duty and with street mannors. I already have the Race Tuner and exhaust pipe needed and I am pretty good with a wrench and a micrometer and the race tuner/AFR meter.

Wiseco bigbore kit ................$960
Carrillo rods..........................$600
Bore Case............................$950
Web street cams .................$535
Bore throttle body ................$300
Slot cam sprockets................$100
Total for parts.....................$3445

Man, that is still a lot of dough and that does not include shipping out here to Hawaii. I guess I will have to keep an eye on ebay for parts, eh?

Mike
Check EagleHD's website for prices.http://www.eagleharley.com/

Reading all this stuff about big bore setups has given me the bug and I am now trying to figure out how to do the big bore on a budget. What do you think about this plan for a 1320. I buy all the parts and get the machining done to the top half of the case and provide all the labor myself. This would be for a big bore done right capable of race track duty and with street mannors. I already have the Race Tuner and exhaust pipe needed and I am pretty good with a wrench and a micrometer and the race tuner/AFR meter.

Wiseco bigbore kit ................$960
Carrillo rods..........................$600
Bore Case............................$950
Web street cams .................$535
Bore throttle body ................$300
Slot cam sprockets................$100
Total for parts.....................$3445

Man, that is still a lot of dough and that does not include shipping out here to Hawaii. I guess I will have to keep an eye on ebay for parts, eh?

Mike

BEAWARE THAT THE WIESCO BIG BORE HAS 2 RING PISTONS,WHICH
ARE RACING PISTONS AND GENERATE ALLOT OF BLOW BY.DONT FORGET
HEADS IF YOU WANT MAX PERFORMANCE.

Rick, does Eagle sell a kit, all the stuff needed to go 1320 cc? That would be a good setup for the do it yourselfer if you included the cost of machining the case.

Mike

Rick, does Eagle sell a kit, all the stuff needed to go 1320 cc? That would be a good setup for the do it yourselfer if you included the cost of machining the case.

Mike

we'll sell you any parts you need.weisco's kit consist of liners,pistons,rings
and liner orings. CP pistons are more expensive because there 3 rings and
better quality. only the factory offers case boring with there kit as well as
all the gaskets. i can put together prices and call it a kit if you prefer.
not a big deal.

we'll sell you any parts you need.weisco's kit consist of liners,pistons,rings
and liner orings. CP pistons are more expensive because there 3 rings and
better quality. only the factory offers case boring with there kit as well as
all the gaskets. i can put together prices and call it a kit if you prefer.
not a big deal.

I may just be calling you folks in the near future to get all the good stuff.

Thanks,
Mike