I have not had the stalling problem on either of my bikes. Enough people have had the problem that I thought I would start the thread and give them a place to post any information that might help others or just a place to vent about the stalling.

I am wondering if I should have the dealer specifically check that area since my bike had a pretty good tumble?

I had the problem, I complained and was told I was fos , Then I got the SE flash along with a couple other goodies and it has not happenned again. That is my story about stalling. It is short now but any of you long timers remember me whining about the stalling from the other forum. BobT

Every longtime Harley rider that tries my V-Rod stalls it on the first time letting out the clutch. I have always attributed it to the V-Rods:

1) Tall final drive gearing (apparently solved with the 28T), and
2) The torque comes on a little later then in the Twin Cam 88 or the Evo.

I have to remind them to tune into the feel of the clutch engagement, and of course: give it a bit more throttle!

Since installing the force fire (techlusion) I have developed a stall after startup hot or cold. As I let off the clutch it's as if I hit the kill switch. Is this an electrical or AFR problem you think?

I have hot stalls after riding for a while pull up to a light pull in the clutch and watch the RPM's drop to 0 start the bike back up and it will idle. Going to check the throttle cable and thinking about taking it and getting the HD flash done.

Since installing the force fire (techlusion) I have developed a stall after startup hot or cold. As I let off the clutch it's as if I hit the kill switch. Is this an electrical or AFR problem you think?

I don't know about the ForceFire but the TFI box has a setting for idle. It's possible it's flooding the bike when you cut back the throttle causing it to stall. I would lean out the idle mixture on the box.

I doubt it's electrical.

Thanks MJW930.

I looked on techlusions site and tuned the green to their directions. It was way off. Pretuned for these pipes :tmbsdow: But I really like the fact that I can now tune myself! The RT was waaaaay over my head.

Everyone who had ridden my bike stalls it on take off and sometimes when stopping.
I have learned to ride with the tall first gear and it really is not a problem anymore, some times when i think it might stall i just keep it revved up to about 1300 when stopping.

I should also note that it did this stock, and after mods...still have the 30 th pulley.

I have hot stalls after riding for a while pull up to a light pull in the clutch and watch the RPM's drop to 0 start the bike back up and it will idle.
Me too, but only occasionally. I'm running an 03 w/ 16GA and 28T w/ HD flash. Also, I'm getting alot of hesitation from 3500 to 4500 RPM. Almost like fouled plugs, but then it seems fine when I get past 4500RPM. It's going in the shop Thursday for the 2500mi service, so I'll have to see what they say.

I have 02 with pcIII Rinehart pipes and screaming eagle air filter. had the air temp sensor moved to the air box but still stall when warm out coming to stop light or sitting at idle unless i keep the throttle open a little??

anyone have any ideas as to a fix???

do not notice it as much when cold outside. but seems to be almost a the time hot out.

thanks

Craig

I have a 03 and have had a stalling problem with every setup I have ran. Had it with SE slip fits, SE air filter and download. Had it with V-Mods, SE airfilter and power commander. And now still have it with SE airfilter, completly hollowed out stock pipes and power commander using force map. I had the recall done and it still happens. It does not stall when I'm moving. It does it when im stoped ant in neutral or clutch pulled in. If I open the throtle quick it has a tendancy to stall. I also think my idle speeed is a little low. It's idleing at about 1000 RPM.

Me too, but only occasionally. I'm running an 03 w/ 16GA and 28T w/ HD flash. Also, I'm getting alot of hesitation from 3500 to 4500 RPM. Almost like fouled plugs, but then it seems fine when I get past 4500RPM. It's going in the shop Thursday for the 2500mi service, so I'll have to see what they say.

Try with top off, or modded. Mine runs a bit better in this range this way.

I have a 03 and have had a stalling problem with every setup I have ran. Had it with SE slip fits, SE air filter and download. Had it with V-Mods, SE airfilter and power commander. And now still have it with SE airfilter, completly hollowed out stock pipes and power commander using force map. I had the recall done and it still happens. It does not stall when I'm moving. It does it when im stoped ant in neutral or clutch pulled in. If I open the throtle quick it has a tendancy to stall. I also think my idle speeed is a little low. It's idleing at about 1000 RPM.

That PC map for force pipes is a joke(108hp with a crater in the middle). It's what gave Force pipes a bad name. I've made 121 and 117 on different dynos with them. Get rid of that map. Try the R.F.

I've noticed that when brendas bike stalls on her it because the clutch engages so far into the release that she is almost poping the clutch. She has a soft clutch on her other bike and has no problem with this DH

posted in other areas but wanted to include it here.
I had stalling problem that only got worse. it would happen when the bike got hot. :yak: checked everything out and had code for the Idle Air Control Motor (IAC) but when I checked it the tests were showing it good. So I changed the Throttle Position Sensor thinking that it was given bad read as to idle or not. :spank:
The bike seemed to run better but nor for long. So went back to the tests and got the same answers. The dealer said call at the end of july to set up a time to drop the bike off. :hmm: which was not going to happen. so back to the tests again. This time things were a little diferent. when i had the air filter of and had the bike in my garage it was stalling were it would not before.
The IAC code was again in the system. When trying to start the bike I noticed that the IAC would pull back to the start or restart position as discriped in the service manual but it would spring back out as soon as the bike started to run at an idle and then stall. so I removed the black vacum plug next to the IAC and the bike started right up and stayed running the IAC needle would bounce in and out. So after the bike cooled down I followed the manual as to how the IAC was to be removed.
:notworth: (if you are not good with tools bring it to you dealer !!!!!).
after it was removed i gave the IAC a small pull as the neddle had reset itself and the whole thing fell apart. it looks like the insides are all plastic and the heat of the engine melted it or it was just defective and took this long for it to let go. I had already ordered a new one before so it should be at my house today and will hope to have the bike back together by tommorow and will post what i find.

Mass, your on to something. Had a fellow Forum member bring me your post today, which I have seen before. The bike would not idle. Remember I have all the High Dollar Computers at work for this. Was getting a bad reading from the IAC. I checked for an Intake Leak first. No problems. Cable adj. was done many times by myself and STAN. When I pulled the IAC, it fell apart. I called a fellow wrench and he had said, this was seen once before on a VR. I asked him why did'nt he tell me about it? He said, "It was a broken part, no need to alert the Pentagon" This may be a future issue, But please don't mess with these sensors on your own. You may do more harm than good. Take it to a shop that has proper tools for the job. It does'nt have to be a Stealer. Unless you have Warr. I will keep an eye on this. Later SKI.

If you are having stalling problems :hitfan: i have found a problem with the IAC (Idle Air Control). This is located on the throttle body and should only be changed by a HD dealership. To check this remove the air cover and filter. in-between the two intakes is a small indentation. that is were the IAC works from. with the engine off turn your bike on then back off again and you should see the IAC move. after that try to start your bike if the IAC moves out but not back in or does not move. try to remove the vacuum plug from the side and see if it will start and stay running at all you need to have your dealer check it and chances are you will need a new one installed. Again do not try this own your own the throttle body has to be removed and you need torches to get this out. let the dealer do it. so if he blows your bike up (no joking) you will still be alive and can get a new one :ithappen: I will post photo of the throttle body to show you were to look.

Just took my bike in for the 15K service and I told the dealer about the stalling again (I tell them everytime) Then I told him to visualy check the IAC and not to take it apart, being I dont wont my bike to be down while waiting on a part. And he just lookd at me funny. I then asked who would work on my bike and he said who ever he gave it to they all can work on it. Not the anwser I was looking for. I pick the bike up tomorrow and I will see what they have to say.

I didnt pull the top off and look down into it and when you turn it on and off you can see it IAC move but when I turn it back off and then started it I didnt see it move. I didnt have time to try and take the vacume hose off. But my guess would be it is not working right.

I have hot stalls after riding for a while pull up to a light pull in the clutch and watch the RPM's drop to 0 start the bike back up and it will idle. Going to check the throttle cable and thinking about taking it and getting the HD flash done.


I am experiencing exactly the same problem right now. After riding for about 5 to 10 mins and when I need to stop at a light, whether at 1st or 2nd gear, when I pull in the clutch, the engine idle drops and dies. Restart and it will idle normally again.

Have we nailed the problem yet, or should I just send it back to the dealer?
Someone with an advise?

I have fought the stalling battle since purchasing my 03 new in March of 04. Bike is currently in shop again(been there 7 days) for further evaluation. HD tech is to drop in next week. I have numerous posts on the topic under my name. HD customer service says they have NO reports of stalling issues on Vrods. Will stall at idle sometimes, but normally during downshifts, usually when cruising at 3 to 5 thousand rpm. Odd, that I have never had on an upshift.

Mine did this too, though my solution was painfully easy.

If I hadn't ridden in a week, and I'd pussy ride it for a bit (say w/ girlie on the back) it would 'rough up' down at idle, behaving like plugs were fouling.

Taken to the extreme and it would begin stalling.

What I figured out was that the back cylinder is fouling the plug. Take the bike out and wail it's tail for 5 min and it'd run ok again.

But again, the stalling would return shortly.


Dyno AFR does not show the bike rich at idle (or low speed), also it's not stinky at idle like an overrich engine would be.
Plugs have been changed (did solve the stalling for a little bit, but stalling came back.)


Then one day when I got home (w/ girlie) it was real bad just trying to get it in the garage (one cyl clearly not fireing at low RPM) and I thought maybe it wasn't getting enough juce. Also when cranking it 'sounded' like it was low on batt power.
So I charged the batt overnight.

In the AM it was fine, fired right up and purred.


So my theory was that the V's charging system doesn't gen enough juce to charge the batt and run the coils (and lights etc) at full power when the motor is at idle.

I have verified this countless times, when my bike begins stalling I charge the batt and the stalling goes away.

If I ride it every day or at least ever other this problem doesn't occur, ONLY after it's sat for a week or so do I have stalling issues.
It's documented that the stock 'security system' will drain the battery dead in a fairly short time (est 3 weeks) unless you plan for it to sit for 3 weeks and disable the security system (put it in storage mode.)


HD says the charging system is 'working as designed'



Or so goes my theory on my bike. So before you pull your hair out when your bike is stalling, try charging the battery overnight.
Your mileage may vary.

Regarding the charging system:

My service manual indicates the alternator/regulator can provide 22 amps @ 1200 rpm, and 36 amps @ 3500 rpm. If we assume the low rpm case, and lets say 13 volts, we get (22 amps) x (13 volts) = 286 watts. At the higher 3600 rpm we get 468 watts. My quick check suggests the fans may be as high as 85 watts each (ouch). The tail/running lights should be less than 30 watts total (don't stand on the brake, and run the turn signals all day), and the ECM/TSSM/... is under 1 watt (mine measures 0.87 watts when the fuel pump is running). So if this is correct, we have:
65 watts (stock headlight high beam)
85 watts (fan 1)
85 watts (fan 2)
21 watts USA (tail/running lights), HDI model is different here
1 watt (ECM/TSSM/...)
___________________
= 257 watts USA

Comparing this to the 286 watts output by the alternator/regulator at idle, it seems that the battery should stay charged, even at idle with the fans running. The HDI (international) model has different blinker and running lights, so this calculation does not apply there.

I'm probably a bit high on the fans, so in reality, it's probably even better than this. And, I'm guessing you would be in quite a unique situation if you leave your bike idling for a LONG time (tens of minutes or hours), and the fans are running the whole time (VERY hot day).

But, if you hold the brakes on (29 watts for brake light), and turn the blinker on (29 watts average for 50% duty cycle), then you might exceed the capability of the charging system. But that would really be an odd situation. So, I still say the charging system should keep the battery charged, even when idling.

Now, for a twist. The three wires coming out of the alternator on the left side cover of the motor have a screw clamp inside the case to hold down the wires. I have seen where that clamp and wire routing was not done perfectly, and metal wore through the insulation and shorted out (to ground) one wire from the alternator. If that happens, you will not loose 100% of the charging capability, but you will loose enough that the battery may not stay charged. To check for this condition, you only need an ohm meter to check for a short between each of the three wires, and ground. There should be no electrical connection between any of the three wires and ground. There are further more elaborate checks of the charging system that are explained in the electrical manual, but this simple check with an ohm meter is really easy to do.

We also did what trickvrod said. It has been over a year now with no stalling problems for both of us. As I said when the issue stopped is when we had the idle and throttle cables installed and the same night is when we started hooking up the battery tender to our bikes after every ride and only take it off when we are going riding. Hope some of this info helps because I know exactly what you are going through. I had a wife ready to sell hers ( and she totally loves her bike ) if the problem wasn't solved.
Doug

I have an 03 with K&N and Vance & Hines and reprogramed computer and it dies when stoping even if the clutch is in and for no reason, starts back up and runs fine for a few days and then does it again! It is hard to get something fixed when it does it just now and then!

New battery seemed to work for me. Problem gone or is it memorex?

Wow, I'm sort of glad that I'm not the only one with stalling issues. I have a 03, fairly stock with the esception of the power commander, and screamin' pipes. For me I get a intermitent total bike shut down, usually when coasting down for a traffic stop with the clutch pulled in. Engine dies, no electrical. It fires right back up. So, far no code's, and no idea. At first I thought it might have been fuel pick-up, but then why the electriacl shutdown?

Any ideas?

I resolved stalling issue on my 03, however the resolution included HD purchasing my bike back under Lemon Law. Too late to do that now on your bike. Do a search on my handle or on stallling and you will find a wealth of threads on this topic and suggestions as to cause. They will include low battery voltage, butterflies on throttle not in sync, bad coil(s), bad coil lead, fuel flange recall, loose battery cable connection, grounding wires not properly tightned, improperly adjusted throttle cable and or idle. I went thru the entire gamut, which included many trips to the dealers, HD Customer Relations(ho, ho), Field Rep coming out for a ride and look see(ho, ho). VrodTommy, your description matched mine exactly but of course I was told by HD that they had never had any reports of similar problems. But as some Sage once said, "it is not a known IBM bug until every user has reported it twice".

Wow, this is the way to resurrect an old thread!! Be proud of yourself, you'll be under someone's skin shortly!! :rofl:

So I've read through several of the posts here and hate to bring this up again but my 04 VRSCB just started giving me the "stall" issue. I've never had the problem before but like Danii mentioned in another post, it happens to me regularly right after I fill-up the bike at a gas station. The last three times it's been consistent: bike is running warm/norm operating temp, I pull in to fuel up, use premium as always, and when i start it back up she spits, farts and dies on me! WTF?! Could it be the ethenol in gas lately? I'm no tech, so hopefully someone can give me their expert opinion or I'll run it past the stealer next time it's in for service.

Roger the ethenol we have is terrible here. While I don't get the stall my mileage is down and I can tell a difference in performance when I just fuel up outside the DFW area. I'm betting it is costing us about 5% in both economy and performance.

I installed a Power Commander with the map for the "Street Rod".
The stalling is gone completely. The down side is that my Street Rod
is "very thirsty" for premium gasoline. Like 25 MPG. Oh well...
I do ride fast.