Hey guys need some help, We just finished a 1320 kit, ported heads web cams, cams degreed at 106 106, K&N filter, Rhinehart pipes, Powercommander USB, Stock ECM, Stock Throttle bodies. This thing will not make any power on our Dyno. I was wondering what we might have missed. This is the first v-rod we have done. We did go by everything in the book, like we do when we touch a new bike. Any suggestions.

What numbers are you getting on the dyno?

What numbers are you getting from the dyno. Also with all the work that you have done you should open the trottle body up to a 58 mm. Who did you head work and what are the number on the cams that you used. Also a Racetunner will be better then the Powercommander for what you have done and lose those pipes, they are costing you hp if that is what you are after.

We are only getting 110hp and 85 lbs, thats not much more then stock.

What dyno are you using?
Did you dyno the stock bike before the mods ?
Something doesnt sound right.I would guess 135+ hp

Hey guys need some help, We just finished a 1320 kit, ported heads web cams, cams degreed at 106 106, K&N filter, Rhinehart pipes, Powercommander USB, Stock ECM, Stock Throttle bodies. This thing will not make any power on our Dyno. I was wondering what we might have missed. This is the first v-rod we have done. We did go by everything in the book, like we do when we touch a new bike. Any suggestions.
Been there done that!! Use the Racetuner. Ditch the powercommander, chage the pipes to a 2-1 system, bore out Throttle bodies.Give it fuel!!

We getting ready to check the fuel pressure on it right now. The bike sounds awsome when dynoing. We have a dynojet dyno.

Do you think that would make it lose 40 hp! I could se 10 or so but 40! What is the recommended degree for the cams 460 intake and 420 exhaust web cams.

Unless you are making your own maps for the power commander,not sure that will even help, you will never get the power right, it is set up for a 1130.Best bet is to get a Race tuner, there are posts on the site about tricking it to take full advantage of the big bire kits.Since it can also be used with the other bigger inch harleys.

We have 40 pulls on the dyno changing the map ourselves and we can't seem to get it right. We have been using powercammanders for about 4 years now and we are not new to it. Just this v-rod is throwing us a fit. Where is that forum at by chance.

With a 1320 kit I don't see you making much more than 92 lbs torque no matter what you do. Maybe 95lbs at a perfect max. As far as horsepower, should be in the neighborhood of 135to 140hp. 145rwhp with a perfect tune. IMHO. Ask Paul Denier or Chopper Steve I am sure they would know. Also I too believe on a big bore; Race tuner is the only way to go. Donald

Posting for tracking purposes. :popcorn

I would call Kaz's main man Gill. I don't have the number, but I would guess he would be a great place to start....he is like the GURU of SuperTuners. Their is a guy here named Skirod as well....maybe he will see this and offer his input???

Good luck! :)

Gary

Based on those torque and HP numbers it sounds like the motor is falling flat on it's head on the top end. Either it's starved for air/fuel (small throttle bodies and the Rinehart pipes) or it's detonating and the ECM is pulling back a lot of timing.

Does anybody know who could help, My brother thinks it in the motor, I think its electronics. We just tried the powercommander utility and it did not help it at all.......PLEASE HELP!!!! :hyper:

there are a few good tuners around-get a race tuner. i have a similar set-up on my rod. my bike puts out 135/94 or 145/100.1 depending on what dyno i use. i have rineharts and a 58mm tb.

You are resetting the dyno to 9000 rpm, right???

Do you think that would make it lose 40 hp! I could se 10 or so but 40! What is the recommended degree for the cams 460 intake and 420 exhaust web cams.
I CANT FIND THAT GRIND ON WEBS SITE,WE HAVE INSTALLED BOTH CAMS
LISTED THERE,THE 142/590 GRIND WHICH IS PAUL DIENERS THE CENTER LINE
ADVERTISED IS 105 INTAKE 110 EXH.WE RETARD THE EXH FOR STARTING(105)
THE LIFT NUMBERS ARE .462 IN. 272 EXH. :thumb:

Mount some lambda sensors in your pipe/s, get a R/Tuner and someone who can use it, bigger throttle body as these motors lack air more than fuel and you should start seeing some good numbers.
As Rick stated check your lobe centers for correct timing.

can we see a curve? just some SWAG, remove the stacks, add a bunch of fuel down low, remove some on top, add a little spark lead on top. And "BLAM" , you'll have anti-freeze all over your Dyno,,,just kidding, you should hit 133-135 no sweat. You will need to bore the TB to much above that.
Thanks: Steve

Chopper Steve, Rick Nielson and Paul Diner are the experieinced tuners on this board - and they are all very friendly (even if not all that good looking) - Paul is at Eagle HD in Ind. Rick is at Cycle Nuts and Bolts HD in Idaho and ChopperSteve is at V-mod.com. I think there are links on front page or search the web for their home page or PM send them a private message...... they all know what they are doing and are on top of the game.

Thanks Guys for all your help! we finally found the problem. We had to take a bunch of fuel out in the middle and add a little down low and up top. we ended up staying at the shop till 1:00 this morning till we got it right. We are still Down on power, it made 131 hp 91.9 ft lbs. The curve looks ok, we are going to look into getting a race tuner.

Thanks Guys for all your help! we finally found the problem. We had to take a bunch of fuel out in the middle and add a little down low and up top. we ended up staying at the shop till 1:00 this morning till we got it right. We are still Down on power, it made 131 hp 91.9 ft lbs. The curve looks ok, we are going to look into getting a race tuner.

Now you're getting close... :popcorn

Thanks Guys for all your help! we finally found the problem. We had to take a bunch of fuel out in the middle and add a little down low and up top. we ended up staying at the shop till 1:00 this morning till we got it right. We are still Down on power, it made 131 hp 91.9 ft lbs. The curve looks ok, we are going to look into getting a race tuner.
IF IT'S A NEW MOTOR THOSE ARE GOOD NUMBERS BREAK IT IN AND FINAL
TUNE WITH THE R.T.AND YOU'LL BE RIGHT UP THERE DID I SAY I SELL RACE
TUNERS AT A REASONABLE PRICE. ;)

How much do you sell them for?

I am pondering an upgrade on my R which 1320 kit did you buy into; Zippers has 3 to choose from.

i think its your exhaust try a 2 into 1 the rhinehart is a power killer

Does anybody know who could help, My brother thinks it in the motor, I think its electronics. We just tried the powercommander utility and it did not help it at all.......PLEASE HELP!!!! :hyper:

loose the power commander

before you do damage i have a copy of a map that will get you
close to start with.I'll be in florida untill monday sorry.chopin and
other members here can attest to trying to tune a big bore with
a power commander it cannot be done correctly.I was a tuning
center i know it cant be done.

If rick says it, you better belive him. Looking forward to see you tomorrow.

I am sorry guys, I was looking for a 1320 dyno sheet and bumped into this.
Why not a powercommander?
I am 1130 powercomandered. If I go to @ 1320 you suggest I should loose the powercommander?

Tuning with a SERT gives you greater flexibility, if you have access to advanced dyno facilities & patience, get the map spec'd to your build.

I am sorry guys, I was looking for a 1320 dyno sheet and bumped into this.
Why not a powercommander?
I am 1130 powercomandered. If I go to @ 1320 you suggest I should loose the powercommander? sert or master tune has a lot more capabilities. harder to work with but a much better tuner. the data record when tuning is a big help and with some combinations being able to disable the ion sense( knock sensor ) is necessary. i have tuned around 250 bikes with the sert and maybe 75 with powercommander. i can get more performance and runnability with the sert.