I have considered a turbo charger and a super charger. Now I am seriously considering a BIG BORE. I am looking for a bullet proof big bore that will end up with around 160 RWHP. I spoke to OK VROD the other day and his 1430 sounds close to what I am looking for. This is his combination:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Stroke 3.088"
Displacement: 1430CC 88CI
Compression Ratio: 12:1 Premium Fuel Required
Tuning Spec:
Valve Clearance .008-.010 Intake
.012-.014 Exhaust
Oil: Mobile 1 V-Twin 20-50
Cams: Megacycle 669X3-669X4
Lift/Duration: Intake 480/264 Exhaust .450/259
Valves:Ferrea Stainless Steel
Intake 41mm
Exhaust 35mm
Ferrea Spring Kit, Titanium Retainers
Rods: Carrillo CAR007
Piston: Weisco
Front# 10055N10795
Rear# 10056N10795
58mm Throttle Bodies and stacks
Stage II Headwork

I am not looking to drag race. I am looking for a FAST streetable bike that will last forever. Can any of you Big Bore guys help me out? If you were to build a streetable big bore and money was not an issue what combo would you build? I plan on riding my V-Rod forever. Also, what would it do if I went with a low compression pistions to alow me to ad a turbo or super charger later if I wanted?

Thank you in advance. :thumb:
Frank

I have considered a turbo charger and a super charger. Now I am seriously considering a BIG BORE. I am looking for a bullet proof big bore that will end up with around 160 RWHP. I spoke to OK VROD the other day and his 1430 sounds close to what I am looking for. This is his combination:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Stroke 3.088"
Displacement: 1430CC 88CI
Compression Ratio: 12:1 Premium Fuel Required
Tuning Spec:
Valve Clearance .008-.010 Intake
.012-.014 Exhaust
Oil: Mobile 1 V-Twin 20-50
Cams: Megacycle 669X3-669X4
Lift/Duration: Intake 480/264 Exhaust .450/259
Valves:Ferrea Stainless Steel
Intake 41mm
Exhaust 35mm
Ferrea Spring Kit, Titanium Retainers
Rods: Carrillo CAR007
Piston: Weisco
Front# 10055N10795
Rear# 10056N10795
58mm Throttle Bodies and stacks
Stage II Headwork

I am not looking to drag race. I am looking for a FAST streetable bike that will last forever. Can any of you Big Bore guys help me out? If you were to build a streetable big bore and money was not an issue what combo would you build? I plan on riding my V-Rod forever. Also, what would it do if I went with a low compression pistions to alow me to ad a turbo or super charger later if I wanted?

Thank you in advance. :thumb:
Frank
:popcorn

Frank if you plan to go turbo or supercharger you need to plan that before you build. Building a low compression Big Bore naturally aspirated would be a dog. If I was looking for long term dependability I might drop the numbers down that I look to get out of the motor. Realistic numbers would be more in the 135-140hp to be dependable IMHO.

Frank if you plan to go turbo or supercharger you need to plan that before you build. Building a low compression Big Bore naturally aspirated would be a dog. If I was looking for long term dependability I might drop the numbers down that I look to get out of the motor. Realistic numbers would be more in the 135-140hp to be dependable IMHO.

Max,

What would make 160 hp less dependable if all parts installed were much higher quality than stock? I am looking to build a motor that will out live a stock motor.

Frank

I agree with Max, shoot for 140 - 145 RWHP but with a long and flat torque curve and you'll have a rocketship that should last as long as a stock motor, maybe longer considering the upgrades. Remember, peak HP means nothing if you give all the mid range away.

There is really no substitution for displacement so configure the bike with the 1450 kit and all the good parts but drop the compression down a point. Dial in some milder cams and investigate using gapless rings. The combination should be killer and last a good long time.

I would have a long talk with Paul at Eagle HD and with ChopperSteve. Both of them have some good experience under their belts and should be able to put together a package that fits your power and longevity needs. Go with the one that you get the best vibes from.

:popcorn

Kaz,

Any suggestions?

Resectfully
Frank

Can't beat CI

I agree with Max, shoot for 140 - 145 RWHP but with a long and flat torque curve and you'll have a rocketship that should last as long as a stock motor, maybe longer considering the upgrades. Remember, peak HP means nothing if you give all the mid range away.

There is really no substitution for displacement so configure the bike with the 1450 kit and all the good parts but drop the compression down a point. Dial in some milder cams and investigate using gapless rings. The combination should be killer and last a good long time.

I would have a long talk with Paul at Eagle HD and with ChopperSteve. Both of them have some good experience under their belts and should be able to put together a package that fits your power and longevity needs. Go with the one that you get the best vibes from.

Mark,

I am not looking for peak power on the high end. I am looking for power down low with great torque. I am hoping that Paul, Steve and others will post on this thread to help educate me as well as others that are looking for dependable Hp. I am looking for a better than stock motor as far as how long it will last.

Frank

How about this. Take all of the moolah you are going to spend on hopping up your V-rod to 160hp and buy a used Hayabusa for the same $. That bike will give you the mega-hp and better reliability than a stock V-rod. The busa's motor, frame, and suspension is designed for that type of power bone stock. Just my two cents.

Jim

How about this. Take all of the moolah you are going to spend on hopping up your V-rod to 160hp and buy a used Hayabusa for the same $. Just my two cents.

Jim

Jim,

That would be the easy way out and I would be riding something other than the V Rod I love.

Frank

Frank I say shoot for a lower number because of basic block design. I don't think the crank and bottom of the motor can handle the type of HP that you want to produce and still give you long life and dependability. It's not so much what you put in it but the basic engine design. I know they can get 200hp out of them but you want the thing to last more then one weekend. Frank with the resources and funds you have I say call Paul if you haven't already (after we talked on the phone) and he can tell you a lot more then I can about dependability and big hp numbers. I base my opinion on years of dealing with car engines.

I understand. However you're pushing the Revolution motor to 150% of stock HP. You're trying to make it something that it's not. It's been my 15+ years of experience with hopping up bikes that when you push a motor that far out of it's comfort range, you end up with "some" problem. Also if this is your only bike, that's major down time both in installation and de-bugging. It's that de-bugging that can kill you. I've been there and regretted that. I've also had a Busa and two V-rods. I'm just trying to keep it real and give you a counter point.

Ride safe,

Jim

Kaz,

Any suggestions?

Resectfully
Frank
Yes!Give me a call Tomorrow and I'll give you the Combo From Hell for the Street :twisted: !Low Comp.Big Bore with a Turbo and You'd make 175 rwhp at 5lbs on Pump gas!!!!!!!!! :eek: :kaz:

Hi Frank, I don't know how long life bigger HP v-rods have but I do know that we have some that are between 140 and 160 RWHP that are three year old and have up to 20,000 miles and are still pretty much trouble free. I know thats not 100,000 miles but its a start.

Following the KISS theory is most likely what your after. A "Juiced" 1320 will net you 145+. Many are out there will lots of trouble free miles. To get to 160 you would need a Stroker, which are pretty new, but are really turning out to be very reliable, and fun. Both follow the same matenance schedual, same oil, same gas.
Turbo's have the big rush of power, but are still soft on the bottom[IMHO]. I have not seen a Super Charger that looks reasonable yet Though that AUZ one has promise.
I feel the Big Bores are working very well and will get you very close to your goal [ HP ] 150+RWHP and 100+ FTLBS of Torque is an increadable ride. Easy to maintain, and parts availible for ever [ or a long time ]
But you must know that this extra Horse exposes other weak links. My point is like drinking Petron. Sip it and it will last a long time, guzzle it, and you tip over[break]
Thanks: Steve

I have considered a turbo charger and a super charger. Now I am seriously considering a BIG BORE. I am looking for a bullet proof big bore that will end up with around 160 RWHP. I spoke to OK VROD the other day and his 1430 sounds close to what I am looking for. This is his combination:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Stroke 3.088"
Displacement: 1430CC 88CI
Compression Ratio: 12:1 Premium Fuel Required
Tuning Spec:
Valve Clearance .008-.010 Intake
.012-.014 Exhaust
Oil: Mobile 1 V-Twin 20-50
Cams: Megacycle 669X3-669X4
Lift/Duration: Intake 480/264 Exhaust .450/259
Valves:Ferrea Stainless Steel
Intake 41mm
Exhaust 35mm
Ferrea Spring Kit, Titanium Retainers
Rods: Carrillo CAR007
Piston: Weisco
Front# 10055N10795
Rear# 10056N10795
58mm Throttle Bodies and stacks
Stage II Headwork

I am not looking to drag race. I am looking for a FAST streetable bike that will last forever. Can any of you Big Bore guys help me out? If you were to build a streetable big bore and money was not an issue what combo would you build? I plan on riding my V-Rod forever. Also, what would it do if I went with a low compression pistions to alow me to ad a turbo or super charger later if I wanted?

Thank you in advance. :thumb:
Frank

you did'nt state the manner in which you stroked it,replace the three piece
crank with a falicon fulll circle crank if you want a bullet proof lower end.
i run allmost the same set up as above, differences,web racing cam.
.492 and.452 lift, 286 and 284 duration,the cams are a closer match to
the flow of the zipper stage 2 heads.i also changed my valves to a single
groove valves and 10 degree titanium locks.(cycle rama).and a falicon crank.
have 400 miles on her,100 more i'll do a full tuning map.that sure is a fun
combo to ride but beware any gear full throtle and my 200 avon spins like
crazy. I'LL NEED A NEW TIRE SOON!I ran the straight big bore 5700 miles
100+ 1/4 miles with only valve tip issues.(reason for changing).this year
swapped pistons,liners and crank and valves and springs i will not subject it to that many 1/4 mile runs 30 at the most.if you plan on spinning the motor
past nine grand you will replace springs at some point.every couple of years
imho. :2cents:

I have considered a turbo charger and a super charger. Now I am seriously considering a BIG BORE. I am looking for a bullet proof big bore that will end up with around 160 RWHP. I spoke to OK VROD the other day and his 1430 sounds close to what I am looking for. This is his combination:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Stroke 3.088"
Displacement: 1430CC 88CI
Compression Ratio: 12:1 Premium Fuel Required
Tuning Spec:
Valve Clearance .008-.010 Intake
.012-.014 Exhaust
Oil: Mobile 1 V-Twin 20-50
Cams: Megacycle 669X3-669X4
Lift/Duration: Intake 480/264 Exhaust .450/259
Valves:Ferrea Stainless Steel
Intake 41mm
Exhaust 35mm
Ferrea Spring Kit, Titanium Retainers
Rods: Carrillo CAR007
Piston: Weisco
Front# 10055N10795
Rear# 10056N10795
58mm Throttle Bodies and stacks
Stage II Headwork

I am not looking to drag race. I am looking for a FAST streetable bike that will last forever. Can any of you Big Bore guys help me out? If you were to build a streetable big bore and money was not an issue what combo would you build? I plan on riding my V-Rod forever. Also, what would it do if I went with a low compression pistions to alow me to ad a turbo or super charger later if I wanted?

Thank you in advance. :thumb:
Frank

Well I will start by saying that these other guys have much more experience with the BB than me..so I will give you a newbies perspective.
I have about 1500 miles on mine since I had it bored out, bottom end totally stock. I dont race it. Miles are mainly cruising with every now and then full throttle. No problems with it thus far. Idles great, just a tad rougher than stock. No stalling. Sounds strong and goes strong. Revs fast to 9K. It is Very fast...have buds with Kawa Z1000, GSX 600 who have a hard time catching me below 100mph. I would think that the weak link in my setup is the cam and valvetrain. The pistons are likely better than the stock Mahle pistons. The cams are hard welded using stock cams but with higher lift.
I would think that the Falicon crank is better than the stock and that the rods are as well. It will probably idle rougher and rev up slower. It would likely last a LOOOOONNNNNGG time if you rode it like I do mine. But I will let you know...havent gotten there yet.
I am not sure how much this helps...but thats my experience thus far. ;)

Well I will start by saying that these other guys have much more experience with the BB than me..so I will give you a newbies perspective.
I have about 1500 miles on mine since I had it bored out, bottom end totally stock. I dont race it. Miles are mainly cruising with every now and then full throttle. No problems with it thus far. Idles great, just a tad rougher than stock. No stalling. Sounds strong and goes strong. Revs fast to 9K. It is Very fast...have buds with Kawa Z1000, GSX 600 who have a hard time catching me below 100mph. I would think that the weak link in my setup is the cam and valvetrain. The pistons are likely better than the stock Mahle pistons. The cams are hard welded using stock cams but with higher lift.
I would think that the Falicon crank is better than the stock and that the rods are as well. It will probably idle rougher and rev up slower. It would likely last a LOOOOONNNNNGG time if you rode it like I do mine. But I will let you know...havent gotten there yet.
I am not sure how much this helps...but thats my experience thus far. ;)

Give it to Kaz for just five minutes and you may just change your mind! :kaz: :eek:

Kaz, how about posting your BB/Turbo ideal setup? I'm considering that combo...seems like info we'd all like to see here.

Scott

Frank, the guy who was letting others ride his big bore in Kissimmee in March was pretty happy with his set up. And I think it was a year old. He said BPP put his together. You had a chat with them?

Danii:

I THINK Paul Deiner put that BB together for BPP. He also did BPP's two BB's as well.

As Paul and Steve said the motors are VERY RELIABLE!!

Both of these guys would be good people to do yours.

I had mine done at Tilleys with the same reliable results. So it's your call where you spend your money.

Regards

Frank, my Big Bore V Rod should be back from Eagle in about weeks. We will certainly have to get it all on paper but we expect about 160 HP, torque between 115 – 120 and to be running quarters somewhere in the 9’s on regular gas, no nitros, no wheelie bars, no slick, no struts just exactly as it will be driven on the street. I have stressed from the beginning that all this must come with daily driven dependability. Paul swears that is what he is delivering. I was very happy with what Eagle did first time around that’s why I sent it back for round two. Since I'm less than an hour away you are more than welcome to come up and test drive it if you are curious. Jeff

you did'nt state the manner in which you stroked it,replace the three piece
crank with a falicon fulll circle crank if you want a bullet proof lower end.
i run allmost the same set up as above, differences,web racing cam.
.492 and.452 lift, 286 and 284 duration,the cams are a closer match to
the flow of the zipper stage 2 heads.i also changed my valves to a single
groove valves and 10 degree titanium locks.(cycle rama).and a falicon crank.
have 400 miles on her,100 more i'll do a full tuning map.that sure is a fun
combo to ride but beware any gear full throtle and my 200 avon spins like
crazy. I'LL NEED A NEW TIRE SOON!I ran the straight big bore 5700 miles
100+ 1/4 miles with only valve tip issues.(reason for changing).this year
swapped pistons,liners and crank and valves and springs i will not subject it to that many 1/4 mile runs 30 at the most.if you plan on spinning the motor
past nine grand you will replace springs at some point.every couple of years
imho. :2cents:


Rick,

Can you tell me more about the falicon fulll circle crank.

Frank

Frank, my Big Bore V Rod should be back from Eagle in about weeks. We will certainly have to get it all on paper but we expect about 160 HP, torque between 115 – 120 and to be running quarters somewhere in the 9’s on regular gas, no nitros, no wheelie bars, no slick, no struts just exactly as it will be driven on the street. I have stressed from the beginning that all this must come with daily driven dependability. Paul swears that is what he is delivering. I was very happy with what Eagle did first time around that’s why I sent it back for round two. Since I'm less than an hour away you are more than welcome to come up and test drive it if you are curious. Jeff


Jeff,

I will take you up on your offer to test ride your bike. Let me know when you have it back. When you gat a chance can you post your final set up?

"Thanks"

Frank

Jeff,

I will take you up on your offer to test ride your bike. Let me know when you have it back. When you gat a chance can you post your final set up?

"Thanks"

Frank


OK Frank, I sure will and just an FYI I have the Falicon crank as well. Jeff

OK Frank, I sure will and just an FYI I have the Falicon crank as well. Jeff


Jeff,

Is that the full circle crank? If so what is a full circle crank?

Frank

Jeff,

Yes it is,

Is that the full circle crank? If so what is a full circle crank?

Frank

New! Falicon Custom Stroke® Crankshaft for V-Rod

More power for your V-Rod

Get huge mid-range torque while adding top-end horsepower for your Harley V-Rod. This is the same Falicon Billet Custom Stroke(tm) Crank we use for our V-Rod Big Bore kit. The Falicon Billet Crank is an innovative full-circle design, and is more aerodynamic (reducing drag) which puts more power to the ground.

Available in 1/4" and 1/2" longer strokes.

Click here for the Harley-Davidson Page. http://www.faliconcranks.com/hd.htm

New! Falicon Custom Stroke® Crankshaft for V-Rod

More power for your V-Rod

Get huge mid-range torque while adding top-end horsepower for your Harley V-Rod. This is the same Falicon Billet Custom Stroke(tm) Crank we use for our V-Rod Big Bore kit. The Falicon Billet Crank is an innovative full-circle design, and is more aerodynamic (reducing drag) which puts more power to the ground.

Available in 1/4" and 1/2" longer strokes.

Click here for the Harley-Davidson Page. http://www.faliconcranks.com/hd.htm


Jeff,

Is this the crank you have?

Frank

The Falicon Billet Crank is an innovative full-circle design, and is more aerodynamic (reducing drag) which puts more power to the ground.

Hey, that's what Kaz needs since he windows his pans so often. :eek:

Jeff,

Is this the crank you have?

Frank

YES

Paul, Steve, Rick and Kaz,

Now that most have posted on this thread can you post what you would recommend as a Bullet Proof Rock solid Big bore. In a similar format to the post of OK VRods setup.

Thank You in Advance
Frank

Frank,

They are right here in FL. Perhaps a road trip to talk to them would help you with the decision. Their 1550 kit looks killer!

Call us for product selection and advice - Our hours of operation are 7:30 AM to 4:30 PM for Monday - Thursday. On Friday, we close at 1:30 PM. Since we are on the east coast of the United States, you'll need to take your time zone into account.

Call us at 727-797-2468
fax us at 727-796-3132
e-mail us at techsupport@faliconcranks.com

Or mail us at:
Falicon Crankshaft Components, Inc.
1115 Old Coachman Road
Clearwater, FL 33765

Frank,

They are right here in FL. Perhaps a road trip to talk to them would help you with the decision. Their 1550 kit looks killer!

Mark,

Good Idea, I have a conference in Tampa in two weeks. Sounds like a nice side trip. Does anyone on the forum have any experience with the 1550?

Frank

Mark,

Good Idea, I have a conference in Tampa in two weeks. Sounds like a nice side trip. Does anyone on the forum have any experience with the 1550?

Frank

Frank, the Falicon crank and 1550 Big Bore were part of the first round of my build. My V Rod ran really strong (155 hp / 113 Torque) with no problems at all, except that with the stock rims and exhaust I was only running 10.50 no matter what we tried. The only substantial changes when it gets back from round two are new rims, tires, exhaust and a different cam. V-Brat (Scott) rode it around the lake a couple of months ago you could ask him what he thought. Jeff

How nasty is the fuel consumption on the big bore bikes?
Does a 30% increase in capacity mean a 30% increase in fuel used?

How nasty is the fuel consumption on the big bore bikes?
Does a 30% increase in capacity mean a 30% increase in fuel used?

I personally haven’t paid that much attention to the mileage but when it returns I will take it out and see just how far this one will go. Jeff

Stock Crank ,with Dryer 300m Top Rods with stock Bearing ends.J&E Low Comp Turbo Pistons desighned by John Noonan,Stock Cams and Heads.Add my Super Kaz Racing RCC Street Turbo system with 7lbs Boost on pump gas ,and You have a 170+rwhp and No Machining! ;) :kaz:
Kaz; Doesn't sound like a big bore to me. Just a stock engine beefed up a bare min. to add a turbo. Donald

How nasty is the fuel consumption on the big bore bikes?
Does a 30% increase in capacity mean a 30% increase in fuel used?
Depends how you ride it.
Like you stole it....you can watch the needle take a dive
Ride it like Granny...90 miles to the tank

thats the POINT! :stilpoke: You don't Need all that But if You want add a Nice Falicon Stroker Crank and Go a Little Over stock. :mrgr: You Really Don't Need it if You only want to make 150-175rwhp. :2cents: The Machining and Labor needed to go with the Big Bore 1550 is a Waste of Money IMHO. ;) :kaz:
Beefing up the internals of an engine is never a waste of money in my opinion. Thus the begining of this thread " Bulletproof". If you have done everything you can internally; you stand a much better chance of the engine lasting, than if you don't. And even then there are no guarantees on how long it will last. I do know a turbo not inter-cooled runs 71% more heat than one that is. I also know my fans on my big bore kick on less now than when it was stock. All this stuff being done on Revolution engines is still new and untested for time. Only a couple of years. Not enough time to know foresure which is the best route to take. By the way there is about to become some new Kids on the block......Procharger Superchargers and Turbos (http://www.procharger.com/motorcycle.shtml) They are Out of Lenxia; Kansas; right where Jack (KCVROD) lives. Donald

:stupid: I have to agree with badrod. I like the idea of a stealth speeder. And I still think turbo's have to shorten engine life, no matter how the engine is set up. .

Gotta say... Turbo Turbo Turbo yes .. hell it gives a lot of more HP to the bike BUT IT WILL TAKE IT SOUL AWAY AND WILL MAKE IT DIE REAL YOUNG...
Turbo is fine for race bikes but not for private use.. Unless u got too much money to throw..
Enough of the Turbo advertising already without giving the whole picture

My perspective - which I know is probably considered too conservative for this converstion - is the Screaming Eagle 1250 set-up does the rock solid thing better than any other option - I think that it has been engineered to the standard of the original motor - which was exceptional. It is not the fastest or most powerful but I think it is the most rock solid. Actually, I am struggling with the HP it delivering as it was picking the front end up at the track with 8% taller gearing than last year..... but then again - I have a very conservative racing style and I am seeking consistency over ET - I am confident that it could run high tens all day long if set up for speed - I will probably set-up for low 11s. -Not a 160 HP set-up but built to last and it is fast..... KSP

those sure are some nice kits Falicon has :dance:



I have a silly question: What is the reason for not knife edgeing the rods?

Sort of like this:
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/store/images/items/RBC1122-C.jpghttp://www.faliconcranks.com/images/vrodbb8.jpg

Probably because they don't slosh through the sump. Knife edging the crank smooths the flow through the oil in the sump and prevents foaming. I also think it would weaken them as well.

sump?

the above rod cuts air/fuel in a high perf 2stroke
40,000rpm 3+hp 3.5cc nitromethane motor

In the cross-section of the rod design, the Falicon 'I-beam' shape is much stronger than the knife edge design.

sump?

the above rod cuts air/fuel in a high perf 2stroke
40,000rpm 3+hp 3.5cc nitromethane motor

Yes, sump! You were asking about knife edging a V-Rod rod which happens to be a 4 stroke motor with oil in the sump.

In a 2 stroke the air/fuel/oil mixture passes through the crank case on it's way to the combustion chamber so in that application knife edging the rotating parts would have a positive effect. On a 4 stroke motor it has no use unless the part is sloshing through the oil bath (sump) like the balance weights on a crank shaft.

:popcorn

:hidesbeh: :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn

:popcorn :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn

I am scared and I m not even in it!
:popcorn :popcorn :popcorn

Is that a line I see in the sand?

Is that a line I see in the sand?

And the gauntlet has been dropped along with it.

http://hogwildracing.com/misc/couch_vrf.jpg

The part of it I love is Badrods V is rock solid and bulletproof too. He has beefed his up with the best stuff. In my eyes; the only way to do it. Wished I could have afforded a full circle crank; but I couldn't this go round. But since I am not a racer probably won't ever need it. I think Paul and Steve have the right ideas on building a dependable engine that rocks. Haven't heard of any big bore failures; just turbos going down on dynos. Kaz I don't have the engine Bad has but with your small size; you might even be able to pull a high 9 on mine.

Oh wait; I forgot, you only do exposition runs. Sorry!

:notworth:
:popcorn :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn

WHY DO YOU guys think Kaz would come out for $10k when he wouldn't come out for the $45-$50k prize that was ponyed up a few weeks ago just prior to AHDRA Las Vegas?

He said he was busy and that his fast bike was broken.

I recommend we remove the World's Fastest Street Legal V-Rod monikor on his Avaitar until we get the official times and mph tickets.

KAZ - It's time!!!! Now where and when can we do this race.

Regards

:kaz:

In keeping with the Rocky theme (movie posted earlier) - it sounds like it's time to "put some hustle behind that muscle"! LOL

:popcorn

I have a silly question: What is the reason for not knife edgeing the rods?

Actually, most of our rods are knife edged. Like this:http://faliconcranks.com/rod.htm

http://faliconcranks.com/images/rod2p200.jpg

But our forging is too small for a V-Rod. Thus we use a different shape. Yes, a knife-edge rod would be better. No, it will be some time before one would be available. The current rod is NASCAR-grade, and plenty stout.

Ken

Ken,

I stand corrected. My experience comes from building 6000 - 7000 rpm big blocks, 10000+rpm bike motors are a different animal.

BTW, is their really a measureable difference in performance with the knife edge in a 4 stroke motor turning less than 10000 rpm?

BTW, is their really a measureable difference in performance with the knife edge in a 4 stroke motor turning less than 10000 rpm?

Yes, there is. How much depends on a number of factors. On one engine, the surface speed of the outer edge of the crank is about 140 MPH. This creates a shock wave that the rod must pass through. Makes you think...

Most of the factory teams use our rods and crank prep services.

So Ken, is there a chance of a rod like that being available in the next year?

WHY DO YOU guys think Kaz would come out for $10k when he wouldn't come out for the $45-$50k prize that was ponyed up a few weeks ago just prior to AHDRA Las Vegas?

He said he was busy and that his fast bike was broken.

I recommend we remove the World's Fastest Street Legal V-Rod monikor on his Avaitar until we get the official times and mph tickets.

KAZ - It's time!!!! Now where and when can we do this race.

Regards

:kaz:
:stupid: :diablo:

Badrod - are you planning on racing your set-up? I really like the handlebars on yours - they look great.
Ken - great looking rods - How do you feel about the dependability of the 1/2 stroker vs the 1/4". How does it effect the overall power of the bike? KSP

Frank - Have you come up with a plan for what you plan to do and when you plan to do it..... and how did the chrome frame work out for you.... Kevin

now we got a challenge.....

Kaz, lighten up, my friend!

Frank, the guy who was letting others ride his big bore in Kissimmee in March was pretty happy with his set up. And I think it was a year old. He said BPP put his together. You had a chat with them?

Frank, I`m the guy Daniii is refering to in Kissimmee. I get 140rph and 98ft lbs of torque. The bike is super quick and pulls like a rocket ship. It probably has more power than you can safely use in every day riding, it can spin the tire even at 120 when power shifting into 5th. Carefull what you wish for but it is very reliable. Paul Deiter @ Eagle HD built the motor and I tweeked it a bit. I am quite happy with doing business with them. Peter

Frank, I`m the guy Daniii is refering to in Kissimmee. I get 140rph and 98ft lbs of torque. The bike is super quick and pulls like a rocket ship. It probably has more power than you can safely use in every day riding, it can spin the tire even at 120 when power shifting into 5th. Carefull what you wish for but it is very reliable. Paul Deiter @ Eagle HD built the motor and I tweeked it a bit. I am quite happy with doing business with them. Peter
peter what is your set up?

i know its a 1320 kit but give details of the heads cam lift valves ect...

peter what is your set up?

i know its a 1320 kit but give details of the heads cam lift valves ect...

VotRod, Paul Deiter can tell you more about my cams than I can, I just gave them open checkbook and they did the rest. I was one of the first that they built and the price was very fair. You need oversized intake valves but std. exhaust valves will sufice. Jamie Mac is the most knowledgleable person I know regarding heads. Air makes this motor fly, more is better, matched with a good exhaust. Peter

That's a great idea, Max, and I can't wait to see the clips! :dance:

Kaz and Jeff, neither one of you has to prove anything. I know this feud goes way back and isn't going to go away. I don't even think getting it in the open would make it go away.

To attempt to end this one way or another I'm going to offer a challenge to both of you and anyone else that dare to enter. Now out of my own pocket, I will spend the money for a plaque for the forums' fastest street-legal v-rod. Now I don't care what the bike has on it as long as it is street legal at the time of the race. I don't want time slips though; what is required to claim the plaque during the rally (Sept 24th) will be a .wmv or .mpeg file sent to me showing the entire quarter-mile run from start to finish and include the time clock and mph in a legible format. Now you can do this at any track you want, so everyone has the ability to find the fastest track in his or her area to do this. Now from the time of the rally for a period of one year that person will hold the fastest street legal title under his or her name and no one else will be allowed to use that title.

Now this is open to any and all members so fireball and Rob I expect you guys to get in on this as well as Rick Nielson. This is not limited to the US either so African Paul feel free to join in as well. It is not required that you be at the rally to accept the crown, but it would be nice to present the award in person.

Now, you ask, what does the forum get out of this? The forum gets the right to edit with a title any and all clips and use them in any manner in which we see fit to promote the forum.

Now let the talking stop and start the film rolling; we will have a clear winner and only that person has the right to claim the fastest street-legal v-rod.

Max

Sweet !!!!!

I think I'll slip into a fresh Skirt for this one !!!!!!! :cheers:

Now let the talking stop and start the film rolling; we will have a clear winner and only that person has the right to claim the fastest street-legal v-rod.

Max

:thumb: This should be good. :popcorn :popcorn :popcorn :cheers:

Thanks for posting Peter! It was so refreshing to meet you in Daytona. A true gentleman, with a truly fast bike, and no ego trips. And willing to let others ride it. That takes a lot of confidence in the build.
Frank, this thread has wandered a bit, but I think you have gotten a lot of great input (and not a little chest pounding).
And finally, I really like Max' idea.

I guess that when this is all said and done there will be NO DOUGHT to whom the TOP GUN is ..... Vary Interesting...... :thumb:

... I don't care what the bike has on it as long as it is street legal at the time of the race ... at any track you want ... this is open to any and all members ...I'm in!

I didn't see anything in those rules about using only V-Rod power, or being on the ground at the start or finish!

http://www.hogwildracing.com/misc/shuttle747piggybackride.jpg

Someone is waiting for you to land .....

Well said, OK VROD :thumb:

Have a question.
does anyone have a good machine shop that they have used on their V-rod. looking into the 1550 kit and talked to local shops and no one wants to work on the v-rod because of the water cooled engine.
the HD shops will only do the HD bolt on from Screaming Eagle.
So I'm looking for someone that can help with the machine work.

any help out their please.

Thanks
Craig

Have a question.
does anyone have a good machine shop that they have used on their V-rod. looking into the 1550 kit and talked to local shops and no one wants to work on the v-rod because of the water cooled engine.
the HD shops will only do the HD bolt on from Screaming Eagle.
So I'm looking for someone that can help with the machine work.

any help out their please.

Thanks
Craig

Without promoting any of those that have access and do BB engines in this thread I suggest you just look through the thread and you will see comments made by several people that can hook you up with machine work for your 1550.

I still say whether you ride a stock, a geezer ride, a powerhouse, a custom; we are all brothers and should welcome with open arms anyone who rides a V-Rod.

*sniff* :sad: :sad: *whimper*

But some of us aren't brothers. Are we welcome, too, Donald????

Now this thread may get a little hard to follow since I cut a good deal of it out. I will post our fastest v-rod challange details in the News section later today so please hold any more on that topic until I make that post.

Max

*sniff* :sad: :sad: *whimper*

But some of us aren't brothers. Are we welcome, too, Donald????

Val were going to welcome you but your going to have to learn the secret handshake. :rofl:

Have a question.
does anyone have a good machine shop that they have used on their V-rod. ...

There's like 3-4 in the country who I'd call if the questions are on Big Bore. Guys with experience and a proven track record of building reliable engines.

Rick Nielson, Paul Diener, Steve Rauch and Don Tilley.
3 of those guys are on here.
Tilley (who'd be my choice due to location) is pretty close to me in NC, though I don't think he's a member here.
Steve is in Wisconson.
Not sure where the other two are, but one of these 4 can do the job right and even if they are several hundred miles from you, go there.
Unless you have a pisspot of money the big bore is not a place where you want to be paying for expermentation.


Yea, I'd really like to go BB. The money would be a tough stretch, but the downtime is a deal breaker for me.
I'd have to buy another motorcycle to be able to down mine for that long. Still, thinking about it...

There's like 3-4 in the country who I'd call if the questions are on Big Bore. Guys with experience and a proven track record of building reliable engines.

Rick Nielson, Paul Diener, Steve Rauch and Don Tilley.
3 of those guys are on here.
Tilley (who'd be my choice due to location) is pretty close to me in NC, though I don't think he's a member here.
Steve is in Wisconson.
Not sure where the other two are, but one of these 4 can do the job right and even if they are several hundred miles from you, go there.
Unless you have a pisspot of money the big bore is not a place where you want to be paying for expermentation.


Yea, I'd really like to go BB. The money would be a tough stretch, but the downtime is a deal breaker for me.
I'd have to buy another motorcycle to be able to down mine for that long. Still, thinking about it...
I waited three months!( including time for machining etc..) I am surprised the HD dealer does not want to do yours?? They did mine( put it together ok, but cant tune worth a damn)...Of course it voided any and all warranties on that engine. But I would definately send your bike to one of the big shops with experience...thats what I would do if I had to do it over again.

thanks for the help.

found some good people to talk with after I posted the message.

so as always look hear first do a good search and find your answers.
love this site and the help is great.

Have a question.
does anyone have a good machine shop that they have used on their V-rod. looking into the 1550 kit and talked to local shops and no one wants to work on the v-rod because of the water cooled engine.
the HD shops will only do the HD bolt on from Screaming Eagle.
So I'm looking for someone that can help with the machine work.

any help out their please.

Thanks
Craig

ZIPPERS HAS A GREAT MACH. SHOP, EAGLE H.D. ( PAUL DIENER) ALSO
HAS A GREAT MACHINE SHOP.V-MOD CAN BORE ALSO. YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE SURE THE MACHINE SHOP YOU CHOOSE HAS A JIG THAT CAN CENTER BORE THE UPPER CASE HALF. I SEARCHED AND FOUND THOSE 2 THAT CAN. I'AM SURE TILLEYS CAN NOT SURE OF THERE TIME FRAME THOUGH.
:2cents:

Now this thread may get a little hard to follow since I cut a good deal of it out. I will post our fastest v-rod challange details in the News section later today so please hold any more on that topic until I make that post.

Max

Max - the ambiguity created by your editing is a welcome addition to this thread :plause: ....... I was following it and growing more disappointed as it progressed - so thanks for the needed re-direct. I was going to tell everyone I just ordered a new seat from corbin (Very Low) to help keep both wheels on the ground with my conservative little big bore - but things were getting way to intense - so now - just in case anyone was wondering about my most recent mod for my little big bore set-up - it is a brand new custom corbin seat .... just for the track :driving: now can we try to keep this racing thing FUN!!!! and while we are at it, let's stay friends :vrodforu: Kevin

Kevin, what big bore setup are you running?

Wipeout - Hd Se 1250....

kevin, can you tell me torque and hp no's. thanks frank.

We bore off of the crank center line[jornals]. Every time, I get a full report on how much the head deck and side covers are off<G> but it sure helps with ring seal!

Max, wish you had moved the cranky posts to a new thread! Just got back from vacation and missed all the sparks...my morning is much more dull as a result!

Scott

So, after all that's taken place here Frank, did you manage to decide which route you're going?

So, after all that's taken place here Frank, did you manage to decide which route you're going?


Have not received a quote from Paul or Rick yet. When I do I will let all of you know. :sinister: I did speak to Ken at Falicon and he highly recommended the full circle crank.

Frank

I did speak to Ken at Falicon and he highly recommended the full circle crank.

Frank

Of course, I *might* be biased. :mrgr: I'd always check the opinion of your engine builder to be sure you'll be happy.

Ken

You can't go wrong with the people you're talking to. Keep us posted. Can't wait to see the bike complete. It's going to be a sweet ride.

anyone have any idea?
was all set to get new Engine from HD to have BB done on.
Then at last minute was told the engines are no longer available and that something was happening at HD. No other information could be given out or the person stated he would lose his job. Is HD making their own 1550 Kit for the v-rod?
any news on the grape vine?

anyone have any idea?
was all set to get new Engine from HD to have BB done on.
Then at last minute was told the engines are no longer available and that something was happening at HD. No other information could be given out or the person stated he would lose his job. Is HD making their own 1550 Kit for the v-rod?
any news on the grape vine?

That sounds very interesting.. Not the H-D big bore theory but the fact that they would not want to sell you an engine.. Really doesn't seem like them..
Will be interesting to find out why..

That sounds very interesting.. Not the H-D big bore theory but the fact that they would not want to sell you an engine.. Really doesn't seem like them..
Will be interesting to find out why..
Engine is available as Race only not swape for vin number paperwork.
engine has been on swap only from HD service. not direct sale from parts department from day one?
why? your idea is as good as mine.

kevin, can you tell me torque and hp no's. thanks frank.

V-dog - 89.xx torque@6,500 and HP 123.xx@7,500 - running fat at 12.5:1 AFR and soft on ignition advance @ initial setting - conservative dyno - don't have enough track time to fully assess HP gain as of yet - although it has done the impossible 3 times - stood it up on launch..... with 8% taller gearing... but I am atributing that to stronger clutch springs. My best guess is that the current set-up is a .35 gain on stock in 1/4 mile which would equal about 12 to 14HP net to rear wheel. Top end gain still availble via 58mm throttle bodies - possible total net gain of 15 to 20HP. Therefore - an early guess is 130 to 135 best possible set-up..... but very preliminary numbers and rough cyphering..... Kevin

Dealers can go **** themselves anymore. They disgust me.

I had a big bore kit installed (Zippers, not the screamin' chicken joke) and went from 1130 cc to 1320 and 141 hp at the rear wheel! Torque is a steady 90 ft/lbs between 3500 rpm all the way through redline(now around 10k rpm). I also had the throttle body bored out to 58 mm with a drastically re-tuned screamin' chicken exhaust. and a re-mapped dyna-whatever the **** it's called. Tempting to play with but I don't want to **** up the settings. Top speed...... unknown! Speedometer ends at 140 mph! Doah! Last year I rode from Syracuse to El Paso, TX and back dodging hurricanes both comming and going! Sure wish I could have put more miles between fill ups that trip. I imagine with the bigger displacement the distance will be even shorter. NEED MORE GAS!!!

Zippers...........................!

Finally made up my mind :diablo:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Falicon 1/4" Stroker Full Circle Crank
Titanium Rods
CNC Ported Heads
Vance & Hines valves and spring packs
41mm Intake Valves
35mm Ehaust Valves
12 MM Head Studs
Web Cams
61mm Taper Bored Throttle-body
Billet Velocity Stacks
1/2" Oil Pan Extension
Barnett Clutch
Shift Fork

Engine to ship to Paul Diener ASAP

Thank you to all that have posted on this thread to assist me in my decision.
Special thanks to Steve and Rick for their quotes.

Frank

Finally made up my mind :diablo:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Falicon 1/4" Stroker Full Circle Crank
Titanium Rods
CNC Ported Heads
Vance & Hines valves and spring packs
41mm Intake Valves
35mm Intake Valves
12 MM Head Studs
Web Cams
61mm Taper Bored Throttle-body
Billet Velocity Stacks
1/2" Oil Pan Extension
Barnett Clutch
Shift Fork

Engine to ship to Paul Diener ASAP

Thank you to all that have posted on this thread to assist me in my decision.
Special thanks to Steve and Rick for their quotes.

Frank
Way to go Frank! :thumb:

Yup. Way to go. I really think that is an excellent plan.

Finally made up my mind :diablo:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Falicon 1/4" Stroker Full Circle Crank
Titanium Rods
CNC Ported Heads
Vance & Hines valves and spring packs
41mm Intake Valves
35mm Intake Valves
12 MM Head Studs
Web Cams
61mm Taper Bored Throttle-body
Billet Velocity Stacks
1/2" Oil Pan Extension
Barnett Clutch
Shift Fork

Engine to ship to Paul Diener ASAP

Thank you to all that have posted on this thread to assist me in my decision.
Special thanks to Steve and Rick for their quotes.

Frank
I think you made the right choice. I know I was very happy with Paul and his boss, Dan.

Finally made up my mind :diablo:

1430 Bore: 4.250"
Falicon 1/4" Stroker Full Circle Crank
Titanium Rods
CNC Ported Heads
Vance & Hines valves and spring packs
41mm Intake Valves
35mm Ehaust Valves
12 MM Head Studs
Web Cams
61mm Taper Bored Throttle-body
Billet Velocity Stacks
1/2" Oil Pan Extension
Barnett Clutch
Shift Fork

Engine to ship to Paul Diener ASAP

Thank you to all that have posted on this thread to assist me in my decision.
Special thanks to Steve and Rick for their quotes.

Frank
I would like to officially test ride that for you to ensure proper engine performance! :cheers:

Frank why not the 1/2 in. stroke?

Sorry...what's a 1/2" oil pan extension? Does that mean you drop the oil pan by 1/2"?

BTW Frank, sounds like an excellent choice!

Frank why not the 1/2 in. stroke?

I was advised by many to go with the 1/4" stroke.

Frank

Sorry...what's a 1/2" oil pan extension? Does that mean you drop the oil pan by 1/2"?

BTW Frank, sounds like an excellent choice!


Yes, it drops the oil pan down 1/2", flush to the bottom of the frame. The one in the pic is 1". I went with the 1/2" so it does not hang below the frame.

Frank

flush to the bottom of the frame

What am I missing here? Mine is totally flush with the bottom of the frame now.


Nice solid sounding setup Frank. I'll be real interested in the results, and how long it takes.

What am I missing here? Mine is totally flush with the bottom of the frame now.


Nice solid sounding setup Frank. I'll be real interested in the results, and how long it takes.

That's why I asked the question because mine too is flush with the bottom of the frame right now. There's always a chance of bottoming out, especially if the bike is lowered, and I'd hate to see you damage your oil pan.

Mine also is flush with frame.

I think they are all flush, lowering it would probably improve oil cooling because it would be more in the direct air stream but it would also make it the first thing to bottom out over bumps etc..

I think they are all flush, lowering it would probably improve oil cooling because it would be more in the direct air stream but it would also make it the first thing to bottom out over bumps etc..
The more oil you have in the pan the cooler it will be.Not nessecarily cooling the oil,but the oil doesn't cycle thru as quickly.It's not getting heated by the friction in the engine.

The more oil you have in the pan the cooler it will be.Not nessecarily cooling the oil,but the oil doesn't cycle thru as quickly.It's not getting heated by the friction in the engine.
Aaahh.. Hadn't thought of that.. :thumb:

The more oil you have in the pan the cooler it will be.Not nessecarily cooling the oil,but the oil doesn't cycle thru as quickly.It's not getting heated by the friction in the engine.
unless you knock a big hole in it because it's hanging down a half inch.

This might be the trick thing for drag racers. But I think those of us who spend a lot of time on the street will not find this to our advantage.

Heck, I've already got scrape marks on mine.

Another concern that I would have is putting the bike on the lift that most of us have. The entire bike would be supported by the oil pan when on these lifts.

Another concern that I would have is putting the bike on the lift that most of us have. The entire bike would be supported by the oil pan when on these lifts.
How do you Modified the Oil Pump Pick up?Is there a Bigger spring too increase Oil Pressure or Your Doing it to Get More Volume ?Whats the Point?
:confused:

How do you Modified the Oil Pump Pick up?Is there a Bigger spring too increase Oil Pressure or Your Doing it to Get More Volume ?Whats the Point?
:confused:


Kaz,

The reason for the extension is two fold. If I run the stock amount of oil, the crank will run above the oil. If I run additional oil it will run cooler. The stock oil pump will create plenty of oil pressure with the extension, no need for a bigger spring. (As per Paul Diener)

Frank

A change in my plans.

After speaking to Paul today I have decided to go with the 1550 with the 1/2" full circle crank. (As per Paul Diener) The only difference between the 1550 and the 1430 is the 1/2" vrs 1/4" stroke. They have the same bore and the same piston. The only concern is that the 1/2" stroke will pull the piston further out of the sleeve and possibly add additional wear. Paul says he has approx. 15 out there with no problems. But they do not have the miles on them that the 1430's that he has done.

Frank

What kind of money are we talking here, 1550 vs the 1430, and in general for your 'Rock Solid' build? I would love to do this as well, got some cash just around the corner, next week.

What kind of money are we talking here, 1550 vs the 1430, and in general for your 'Rock Solid' build? I would love to do this as well, got some cash just around the corner, next week.

Same Price.

Frank

Are the injectors goting to be big enough to feed the beast?

Same Price.

Frank
What Compression Ratio you goin? :sinister:

P.S Good Choice on the Size,but you should askim about his 1700+cc Monster he has Layin around! :twisted:

What Compression Ratio you goin? :sinister:

P.S Good Choice on the Size,but you should askim about his 1700+cc Monster he has Layin around! :twisted:

Kaz,

Good question. I do not know. Maybe Paul can chime in and awnser that. I know I am not going low like 8:1. Not looking to do anything along the lines of turbo or super charger later. I think the 1550 will be enough power. :diablo: Probably going to have a hard time keeping the front wheel down and the rear wheel from burning up as it is.

Frank

hay congrates Frank look forward to riding with you this new england winter when i get down your way. sorry you'll have to keep waiting for me. only running stock engine.
keep us posted as the work continues.

Craig

Frank, have you finally gotten all that was due from the crazy ("so, sue me") lady that t-boned you??

Frank, have you finally gotten all that was due from the crazy ("so, sue me") lady that t-boned you??


Yes I have.

Frank

Frank, have you finally gotten all that was due from the crazy ("so, sue me") lady that t-boned you??

I think the bigger question is whether Frank still knows how to ride :rolleyes:

It's been what, 18 months since you have your bike in 1 piece?

I think the bigger question is whether Frank still knows how to ride :rolleyes:

It's been what, 18 months since you have your bike in 1 piece?


Mark,

I have been riding but not my V Rod. 18 months is true, but on a positive note allot of new parts have come available and I bought most of them. The 1550 BB being the latest. :rofl2: Wait until it is done :mrgr: :diablo:

Frank

Frank, It'll be sweet. Just curious, what HAVE you been riding? Inquiring minds want to know.

Same Price.

Frank

I HAVENT POSTED YET THE TIMES FROM LAST WEEKEND ,BUT FRANK GET
READY FOR MUCHO REAR TIRES MY BRAND NEW 200 AVON VENOM MADE IT 1100 MILES.THE METZ. IS MY MOTORS VICTIM RIGHT NOW.AND YOU WILL
RUNAWAY FROM RAIN. :thumb: ( HERES A HINT SPUN THE REAR TIRE 800 FT
IN THE 1/4 13 SECOND PASS @ 126 MPH)

I HAVENT POSTED YET THE TIMES FROM LAST WEEKEND ,BUT FRANK GET
READY FOR MUCHO REAR TIRES MY BRAND NEW 200 AVON VENOM MADE IT 1100 MILES.THE METZ. IS MY MOTORS VICTIM RIGHT NOW.AND YOU WILL
RUNAWAY FROM RAIN. :thumb: ( HERES A HINT SPUN THE REAR TIRE 800 FT
IN THE 1/4 13 SECOND PASS @ 126 MPH)


Rick,

Was that with the 26 tooth?
If so, do think the 28 thooth will do better?

Frank

Frank, It'll be sweet. Just curious, what HAVE you been riding? Inquiring minds want to know.


I have rented a V rod on many occasions and I have many friends with multiple bikes. Nothing like riding my own V, but you know why it took so long to get mine where it will be.

Frank

Rick,

Was that with the 26 tooth?
If so, do think the 28 thooth will do better?

Frank
THAT WAS WITH THE 26 TOOTH, PUT THE 28 ON RACE THIS SAT,MY FIRST RUN WAS OK BUT SPUN REALLY HARD ON THE 2ND TO THIRD SHIFT.IN FAIRNESS TO THE TRACK IT WASNT PREPPED OPTIM.AND I REALLY HAVENT
NOTICED ANY DIFFERENCE WITH THE 28 TOOTH ON THE STREET ALMOST DID
A 360 TURNING OUT OF MY RES.THIS MORNING.