For me that is, I know some of you in a Desert out there race all year long.

However I am new to this area and just learned of all the great opportunities to race my bike. And since I got nothing better to do I reckon I may as well. Seeing as how I find the Rod to have plenty of power, it needs more because plenty is not ridiculious. So logic dictates with all motors filter, pipes, and expensive computer Chit. Step one. So since I can make it go faster this way I will.

Tell me if I am wrong here, but I can afford about 500 bucks worth of stuff right now without leaving my budget gone. So I was wondering if it is worth buying the Race tuner now, and learning how to play with the software while saving up for pipes/filter. Or if it's better to just do it all at once.

The tracks open March 28th by the way. So anyone want to lend a few suggestions.

Thanks

Nick,
If I were you I would Get a new Credit Card with at Least 5k on it if you want to do anything serious at the Track.Unless you just want to Run low 12's High 11's .Then Your cool, but 10's OR Better is Gonna Cost you 5k Easy! I don't care WHAT YOU READ IN THE MAGAZINES!;)

Although I may be very capable of spending that 5k over a year or so...what's the fun if you don't slowly add them, dyno, race, see how its going. I am more looking to entertain myself.

Winning is everything, but for now I just like to legally go as fast as I can...cause I uh I never speed on the street (prove me wrong).

So what's a good starting point. Come on it'll be fun like 90% of my income is slated for the bike...because I can

If 2003 or before then 28 tooth sprocket - thenhave your stock mufflers done by steve at VMod and adjust AFRatio as required with either race tuner or powercommander - race tuner is good for 4HP if dyno tuned and provides the initrial SE ECM flash map with it - I have used both and finally chose Race tuner.
Kevin

For a Race setup you can't go wrong with the Turbo Tec USA Pipes.Then Race Tuner with Air Box Modded with Filter.Chain Conversion and Air Shifter.That will give you a Nice Running Track Bike thats Very Streetable!:diablo:

Originally posted by Super Kaz
For a Race setup you can't go wrong with the Turbo Tec USA Pipes.Then Race Tuner with Air Box Modded with Filter.Chain Conversion and Air Shifter.That will give you a Nice Running Track Bike thats Very Streetable!:diablo:


No need for a chain with only those mods. $800.00 will get you a mid/low 11 second V-Rod IF you really know what you are doing (Modded pipes, PC or RT, 28T pulley and SE AF and most importantly, knowing how to ride).



John

Nickdude;
V-mod the pipes>$150 V-mod.com
PCIIIR>$200 Ebay
PCIII USB>$360 power commander
Race tuner>$368 chicago harley
Filter>$58 V-mod.com
28T sprocket>$196 chicago harley
Supertrapps>$250-$350 Ebay
Turbo tecs>$600 turbotecusa.com
Save your money and Get what you want the first time.I already am considering an exhaust swap and getting rid of PCIIIr.Search around the forum for what others have done.

What does it cost to do the actual mailing the pipes bit. I am limited on tools right now...what do I need. I have the service manual laying around here, do I need to replace the gasket as well? I ask because I have no garage, but a storage unit that acts as one for now.

Shipping is about $15.00 each way. Here are instructions. No lift or garage necessary.

http://www.v-mod.com/tech_details.asp?techid=7

VRSC Muffler Removal and Install Posted: 12/15/2002


You will need:

6mm Allan Wrench [ socket wrench type ]
15mm socket [ deep ]
**REMOVAL**

Remove the [2] 6mm allan bolts that retain the top muffler.
Loosen the 15mm nut on the top muffler clamp.
"Wiggle" the top muffler off [ carefull not to strike swing arm]
NOTE : If the muffler will not budge! You can pry between the clamp bolt and the welded area of the center section. Gently pry while wiggling the muffler.

Remove the 6mm allan from the bottom of the lower muffler
Loosen the 15mm lower muffler clamp.
Wiggle muffler off
**INSTALL**

Aply a little "ANTI-SEEZE" or Grease to the inside of the clamp flange
slide lower muffler and clamp onto bike [ do not tighten ]
Install upper muffler and clamp [ do not tighten ]
Install the [2] upper allan bolts. you may have to work the upper and lower mufflers to get the holes to line up.
Install the lower 6mm allan bolt and tighten.
Tighten the [2] upper allan bolts.
Align and tighten the [2] 15mm clamp nuts.

Shipping:

http://www.v-mod.com/tech_details.asp?techid=8

Shipping Mufflers Posted: 12/15/2002


Special care must be taken when shipping your V-Rod mufflers. The chrome will scratch very easy and the "BIASED" ends are prone to dent. If your lucky enough to have the HD Muffler boxes, these are the best for safe shipping. Either way one should wrap the mufflers in plastic or bubblewrap. The cardboard box and newspaper will scratch the chrome. If you do not have the HD Box, special care must be taken that the two mufflers can't "bouce" off each other. If you bolt the mufflers together [ which keeps them off each other] extra padding has to be added on the tip-end as they are a heaver unit. While in transit these boxes are dropped on end! You must have enough protection on the ends!

When shipping Mufflers to MainStreet Motorcycles. Please take a "Sharpie" and put your name on the mufflers. Also put a note with your request [ V-Mod Mufflers] I will need your name,address,email and Phone# on the note.






John

So like $180 bones, more like 190 after I pay for bubble wrap...but I need the race tuner to utilize em.

So yeah, I will probbaly do that, but it will have to be a week when I see the temps all look below 25...cause I have a hard time riding below 25...but I will if I can. So now to predict snow in DC, so I can do the exhaust.

Now problem being that theres this girl who works at the parts department that I flirt with, cause she's kinda cute and knows about bikes, and can give 10% discounts, but anyways I guess I can ask her for a box lying around the shop so I can talk to her. More than ya needed to know but...

Is it ok to do the pipes thn get the race tuner?

Lots of questions I know...but I'm a cheap bastard.

Get a set of pipes off eBay(less than $100 for new take-offs), and have them shipped directly to v-mod.com. When you get the pipes shipped to you after being modded, sell your originals on eBay. That way no down time. Yes you can run w/o any other mods or tuning (PCIIIr or RT) with the V-Mods as long as you don't run the SE A/F.


John

Now That's thinking.

Does the filter really make it that lean? That means it brings in a lot more air...that means more power.

I guess I'll just do it in one chunk. Maybe if I do it all at once It'll scare me when I hit the gas.

You Guys Kill Me!:slap2: Do John's Mod and come to Vegas and you'd be lucky to run Mid 12's!:rolleyes: It's Not near as Easy as it Looks!:cool:

Will TT pipes take me from mid 12's to low 11's?

Because I was under the impression the bike would run high 11's stock

Vrodvinny, Why are you looking at an exhaust change? Thought you were happy with the supertrapp.
Derek

nickdude,
maybe a Stock "Ringer" Bike "28T"with a Pro Driver on the Best Track with Perfect conditions!11's are Possible,but for 99% mid to low 12's!No pipe unless it's a"Crack Pipe" is gonna give you a second in the 1/4!Take your Bike out ASAP and get a Baseline at the track.Get used to everything ,then worry about performance mods!Being a Great Rider/Driver/Racer won't cost you a Penny and will make the Most out of what ever you put together! ;)

One must be a really crummy rider or weigh 400 lbs if mid 12's are the best you can do on a STOCK V-Rod. I know there are MANY riders who have the skill level I have (I'm a realist) and I ran 11.29 with minimal mods.


John

Originally posted by Derek
Vrodvinny, Why are you looking at an exhaust change? Thought you were happy with the supertrapp.
Derek
I need more power.

John, Kaz,

You guys must really enjoy going at each other ;) You both know that different tracks have different baseline numbers. To use absolutes when talking about two completely different tracks is wasting bandwidth.

You could easilly run low 12's in Vegas and mid 11's in LA on the same bike with the same rider. Heck, you could have the same spread in Gainesville, FL between Feb. runs and August runs!

I say you both go to each others tracks, make your passes and post your numbers. Then, and only then does it stop being bench racing and start being fact.......

Mark,
Pomona is NOT 3/4 of a second faster than Vegas. Just look at the AHDRA V-Rod times from Vegas and at the "fastest" tracks. The difference is no more than 3/10ths. I just replied because it's NOT gospel just because Kaz says so. Is it waisting bandwidth to post an opposing opinion?



John

So yeah thats another point. I have never actually raced, except when my buddy worked at the track near my house and I raced there with out times. But now that I have more time and cash to blow...

What are some of the tips you folks have for the race. I know its all about shifting and when and speed. Anybody can go WOT, its shifting that determines the race, ie Bracket racing. On a bike do you "launch" like with a truck (though I guess you can race a car), I'm guessing Kaz does judging by the wheelie bar, and uh whellie.

Techniques...more important.

Upon thinking about it I'm going to do the 28T first.

And about giving a hard time...in about 20 minutes when I go back to work I will be giving my buddies 10 times the crap ya'll have been giving. But I trust them with my life at the same time.

Originally posted by nickdude


What are some of the tips you folks have for the race. I know its all about shifting and when and speed. Anybody can go WOT, its shifting that determines the race, ie Bracket racing. On a bike do you "launch" like with a truck (though I guess you can race a car), I'm guessing Kaz does judging by the wheelie bar, and uh whellie.

Techniques...more important.



Nick, shifting is NOT the most important factor by a long shot. It's your launch (60 foot time). Whether you speed shift or slightly let off the throttle when you shift makes very little difference. 28T is going to dramatically help your 60 foot time. You need to slip the clutch right at the verge of losing traction (wheel spin). I slip the clutch at about 6K rpm. My 60 foot time on my 11.29 pass was 1.68. I had a 1.66 but had trouble in the middle of the pass (missed a shift) so that run was scrubbed. Hope this helps.


John

Originally posted by Ketsugo
Mark,
Pomona is NOT 3/4 of a second faster than Vegas. Just look at the AHDRA V-Rod times from Vegas and at the "fastest" tracks. The difference is no more than 3/10ths. I just replied because it's NOT gospel just because Kaz says so. Is it waisting bandwidth to post an opposing opinion?

John

It's not waisting bandwidth to post an opposing opinion until it's done for the 20th or 30th time ;)

You've got your times for Pomona, let's get someone's times for Vegas (using similar equipment) and see what the difference is. Then maybe this bickering can stop.

BTW, I don't take anything anyone says on the Internet as Gospel :D

Originally posted by mjw930
It's not waisting bandwidth to post an opposing opinion until it's done for the 20th or 30th time ;)

You've got your times for Pomona, let's get someone's times for Vegas (using similar equipment) and see what the difference is. Then maybe this bickering can stop.

BTW, I don't take anything anyone says on the Internet as Gospel :D


No worries Mark,
I know how to stop the bickering.



John

Can't we all just get along?:)
:fahr38

Because I am learning so much from you all, what are the torque/HP curves like with the various pipes...all same as stock or do some give me high HP, but useless at lower RPM's?

I need a hug....

http://users.pandora.be/eforum/emoticons4u/fam/fam29.gif

:moon :hidesbehi

I always say a little controversy is healthy! :D As far as dyno sheets for different exhaust, look on this site, as well as the V-Mod website, there are plenty to compare. :spit: