My VRSCR has about 400 miles on it and has a problem with poor fuel delivery when cold and surging/poor fuel delivery below 3,500 rpm at operating temperature. The bike is completely stock. The dealer says the bike's computer discloses no problems. Anyone else experience the same problems with the fuel injection?

While I have had similar problems with stock bikes with carbs, I have never had similar problems on fuel injected bikes. I intend to get new pipes and a Power Commander as soon as they are available. Hopefully this will cure the problems.

Nope, mine hiccupped only once. I let it warm up a bit before riding off when it's sat overnite. I don't baby it either. Sorry, I couldn't be of more help.

my R has 700 miles and surges a little before it's up to operating temp.

after that it's fine.

ken

Mine is a little cold blooded. Nothing extremely noticable though. Runs like a raped ape above 3500 rpms...pretty much a heavy pig below 3500 rpms.

My Street Rod has 2000 miles on it and it has always surged below 3200 RPM'S. I am going to take it in to see if anything can be done.

Got 350 miles on mne and it too feels like its hiccupping...
i assumed it's the break-in period..
but guess not now.. even after a good warm up i feel it pull back and jumpy sometimes..
anybody else having such issues?

I don't believe it has anything to do with the break in period. I have never experienced an improvement in fuel delivery after the break in period on any other fuel injected bike . I suspect the poor injection is the price we pay for being the first to buy them. Harley will probably have a new injection map available shortly as a result of the complaints. In any event, I would expect that a good set of slip ons and a Power Commander will cure these ills.

I agree, having a ton of fuel injection bikes, this one has a low end stumble. I believe it can be cured with a re-mapping of the ecu. These bikes, like most others are delivered a bit lean to pass emissions. No problem to cure just time to get the map dialed in right to cure the stumble. Other than that I love the bike!

hiwyvindicator:

I have emailed Dynojet about a Power Commander and was advised they are working on it. It will be essentially the same as the one used in the V-rod with a slightly different map. I'm sure HD will come out with a SE exhaust soon (with a new map to go with it). With the exception of the fuel injection issue and a front end clunk with required some adjustment to the triple clamps/bearings, I have been very pleased with the bike. I'm a big fan of Triumph triples because of the power delivery and sound/feel of the motor and am equally impressed with this motor.

I talked to dealer and they called HD about the problem. They recomended running in a higher gear. They run lean for emissions at 2500 to 3500 RPM'S. No need to bring bike in until new pipes and maps are available. I have 2300 miles on bike and have run it to red line many times. Breakin has no effect. This is the first HD that I have owned. All in all This is a fun machine. It remindes me of the ZRX 1100 that I owned.

While setting a stop light today. I notied that my tack is jumping from 1800-1100 while at idle. I figure that this can be fixed with a remap and some new slip-on's, but I am going to the dealership on Monday just to make sure. I have about 350mi on mine so far. I really love this new bike though.

Brian

While setting a stop light today. I notied that my tack is jumping from 1800-1100 while at idle. I figure that this can be fixed with a remap and some new slip-on's, but I am going to the dealership on Monday just to make sure. I have about 350mi on mine so far. I really love this new bike though.

Brian


Mine does the same thing. As was previously mentioned in this thread, the dealer probably can't do anything until the new mufflers/maps are available. Of course, you can use the Race Tune or Gil's box now to iron out the injection. However, I don't see the point in spending the money now to remap the injection with the stock exhaust.

Although the injection on this bike sucks, it still runs WAY better than my '95 Triumph Daytona Super III did with the stock carb jetting. It was so bad I'm surprised they sold ANY of those bikes. Runs great now though. Nothing more money won't fix.....

ive been talking about this problem for a while now and no one seemed to want to talk about it.
the cure is very simple! GILS BOX! no more cold engine stumble or excessive hot motor when idling!

ive been talking about this problem for a while now and no one seemed to want to talk about it.
the cure is very simple! GILS BOX! no more cold engine stumble or excessive hot motor when idling!


Sure but I suspect that anyone who is going to go through the trouble of remapping the injection is going to want new mufflers as well. Since the mufflers are not yet available I will wait to remap the injection (and bitch about the stock injection!)

If you do get Gil's box tuned for the stock exhaust, it is difficult to change it when new mufflers are installed?

While setting a stop light today. I notied that my tack is jumping from 1800-1100 while at idle. I figure that this can be fixed with a remap and some new slip-on's, but I am going to the dealership on Monday just to make sure. I have about 350mi on mine so far. I really love this new bike though.

Brian


What did your dealer say?

Sure but I suspect that anyone who is going to go through the trouble of remapping the injection is going to want new mufflers as well. Since the mufflers are not yet available I will wait to remap the injection (and bitch about the stock injection!)

If you do get Gil's box tuned for the stock exhaust, it is difficult to change it when new mufflers are installed?
according to gil, thats not the case! he left enough adjustment in my unit, so that if i ever decide to change the exhaust, there is enough adjustment to handle it.

I have about 400 miles on my R which is completely stock. My bike is really jumpy when cold and that does not improve too much even when warmed up if I am below 3,000 rpm. I have been reading about Gil's box and other tuning devices that are supposed to cure this problem. I am not looking for maximizing power or anything - the bike is fast enough for me as it is - just to get those things smoothened out.

Does installing such a device void the factory warranty at all or do I need to take it out next time I bring it in for a service?

Also since I will be going back to Europe next year, do you guys overseas know if those tuning devices are legal over there.

Sorry for those basic questions but I am a absolutely new to H-D. I was riding offroaders (KTM) so far and this is my first cruiser.

it improves driveability substantually. it is easily removable if needbe, most will never see that you have installed it. go for it!

My VRSCR also has a slight surge/pulse before warming up and at low rpms, but it seems to be OK after the first 5 miles of riding. No major complaints in this regard. A problematic heat shield screw, however.......

get it remapped and put on a pair of SE slips-on's

i wasnt aware they made SE pipes for the R!

They don't! (at least not yet ;) )

My VRSCR has about 400 miles on it and has a problem with poor fuel delivery when cold and surging/poor fuel delivery below 3,500 rpm at operating temperature. The bike is completely stock. The dealer says the bike's computer discloses no problems. Anyone else experience the same problems with the fuel injection?

While I have had similar problems with stock bikes with carbs, I have never had similar problems on fuel injected bikes. I intend to get new pipes and a Power Commander as soon as they are available. Hopefully this will cure the problems.

Yeup - same problems here. Especially worse in windy weather (this weekend). Seems to get better once the bike is fully warmed up, but is really annoying/distracting when I first get on it and take off.

I'm going to call H/D customer service and give my usual :spank: to them for this, along with complaining about the klunky front forks (unacceptable), and the angle of the gauges (unsafe).

Hopefully it will lead to a remap, recall, and release of a new gauge housing, respectively.

if any of you have not ridden an A or B model, go do it! you will find that they dont have the problems with the lean running. ive been the route with complaining to harley and got 0 satifaction.

i wasnt aware they made SE pipes for the R!

You are correct. NOBODY has pipes yet for the R.
I will be running the Stock pipes with the Big Bore. There are several pipes out there "in the works" but I will remap when the time comes to add new pipes. I have a Race Tuner set aside for the ECM download with the CVO load and use that as a base line for the time being.

Yeup - same problems here. Especially worse in windy weather (this weekend). Seems to get better once the bike is fully warmed up, but is really annoying/distracting when I first get on it and take off.

I'm going to call H/D customer service and give my usual :spank: to them for this, along with complaining about the klunky front forks (unacceptable), and the angle of the gauges (unsafe).

Hopefully it will lead to a remap, recall, and release of a new gauge housing, respectively.


The front end problem is the result of improper adjustment. This is an easy fix.

The front end problem is the result of improper adjustment. This is an easy fix.

What should I tell the tech guys at the dealership? Just "adjust it better"?

Am I right in assuming that the problem is a bearing on the tree?

The problem's kind of "intermittent", which is the worst thing to have to explain to a service guy.

If you do get Gil's box tuned for the stock exhaust, it is difficult to change it when new mufflers are installed?

No, it's a simple as turning a pot screw up or down, depending on what Gil says to do.

Since the Street Rod has better flowng stock pipes than the A or B models, adding 5 more hp and 8 more ft. lbs. of torque, then can't we say it essentially comes with a type of Screamin Eagle exhaust as standard equipment? With air-cooled Harley's, adding a Screamin Eagle exhaust system alone won't add any more hp or torque than we've gotten with the Street Rod's improved, better flowing exhaust. There is more to the Street Rod's stock pipe than just a new shape to allow for mid foot controls, in my opinion. And, the sound is different as well, compared to the A and B model's stock exhaust and sound. Therefore, I'm perfectly happy with the stock pipe.

Since the Street Rod has better flowng stock pipes than the A or B models, adding 5 more hp and 8 more ft. lbs. of torque, then can't we say it essentially comes with a type of Screamin Eagle exhaust as standard equipment? With air-cooled Harley's, adding a Screamin Eagle exhaust system alone won't add any more hp or torque than we've gotten with the Street Rod's improved, better flowing exhaust. There is more to the Street Rod's stock pipe than just a new shape to allow for mid foot controls, in my opinion. And, the sound is different as well, compared to the A and B model's stock exhaust and sound. Therefore, I'm perfectly happy with the stock pipe.

until somebody comes out with a pipe that adds 10 - 15hp and 6 - 10 tq over what these stocks give me, I will stick with these also. When I do my next upgrade, which will be throttle body to 58mm, then I will think about pipes since I will have to remap with the RT anyways....................

Unless somebody want to give me a set to R&D real world on a Big Bore Street Rod......................Any takers? :twisted:

I have an A model, but this applies to all Vrods:

They are happiest revving at 5k and above. Stay in whatever gear will keep you up at those revs and the bike will love it. Let it spin, it was born to run.....

That being said, you will need to get it remapped somehow to completely cure the lean tuning below 4k if you want to run it in that range.

i took possession of my A model in october 2001, one of the first ones to hit the street. it ran like a champ from the time you turned the key to red line. no maps were available till months later when the SE pipes hit the market.
i agree that the R stock pipes are the equivelent of the SE exhaust.

What should I tell the tech guys at the dealership? Just "adjust it better"?

Am I right in assuming that the problem is a bearing on the tree?

The problem's kind of "intermittent", which is the worst thing to have to explain to a service guy.


You shouldn't need to tell them anything but "fix it" as there is a service bulletin on the issue. It is a common problem. My dealer fixed it in about an hour.

There are other threads that talk about the specific cause of the problem.

Do you know what the service bulletin number is? There was an S/B on my sporty - they had no idea about it - I had to give them the S/B number and then it still took them an hour or so to figure out what to do...

Go figure...

Is it a VRSCR-specific one, or VRSC's in general?

What did your dealer say?

wiat for the SE pipes to come out and get get the remap :banghead:

I learned tolet my B warm up a few minutes. One 45 degree morning let it run about 30 seconds and started out. Pulling out into my first intersection it stopped and in first gear, essentially was like the engine seized, dropping me there in the middle of the turn. Letting it warm up first, never had it stall out again. (It wasn't my operation of the clutch, gas, that's one thing I'm rather tood at, using the friction zone- the engine stalled.)

As for a stumble, never noticed it in first 131 miles, maybe because stock exhaust so muffled sound, I might have thought the "rough engine response" at low rpm's was road vibration. But did Se big bore, SE slip fit, kn filter and Se slip fit exhaust, and now immediately evident about 3k rpm like a misfire, can hear it and feel it. Never got above 4 K yet as still breaking in but about 4 k the problem seems to go away. Don't have the dyno record with me now, but do recall that by 4 k air and fuel are pretty flat, almost on top of each other. Before 4 k, they trade places oscillating, one increasng slope while other has decreasing slope. Dealer insists "that's normal" for VROD at those rpm's. I don't have a clue, I bought this to ride, not to intimately understand. I need to devote my resources available for understanding to women. But I do understand graphs and before 4k (4,000) rpm the graph surely looks differently than after about 4k.

Anyone else know differently, about this stumble?

Whoops, meant to say SE big bore, SE slip fit, K&N filter and PC. Left out the PC and mentioned exhaust twice.

:stupid: What did your dealer say?
get it remapped and put on a pair of SE slips-on's
I meant to quote this reply when I replied to this