Anyone got V-mod's Stage 1 bbbig bore?

No but I will have the stage 2 in about 2 months. Donald

Hey how much and where to buy the stage 2 Im considering it!

Stage -2 runs about $5200. I have a very hard time getting it to work with the 16ga. I would sugest a 2-1 for a true 140+ hp.
were are you in Wisconsin?

Sauk City here, Holy crp 5200 for 140 horse, maybe turbo would be better. Only 3500 for 170 plus horses. Suggestions?

The Turbo is an option. But $3500? 170+ on a stock engine ? I would be shocked if you got that done for under 7k. Before you drop your cash, check out everything you will need.

Sauk City here, Holy crp 5200 for 140 horse, maybe turbo would be better. Only 3500 for 170 plus horses. Suggestions?
I HAVE A 145 H.P. BIG BORE WITH 5000 MILES AND 60 RUNS AT THE TRACK
AND IT STILL RUNS, WE'LL SEE ABOUT THE LIFE OF THE TURBO'S.
AND UNLESS YOUR INSTALLING AND TUNING THE TURBO YOURSELF ADD
LABOR TO THE COST.

Not sure what to do I will have to way out all options if any. Not sure messing with my beauty is something I really want to do.

Not sure what to do I will have to way out all options if any. Not sure messing with my beauty is something I really want to do.

The biggest and most reliable bang for your buck is a big bore kit , all the components of the big bore kit , ie:falicon are of better quality than stock and with a 3 ring forged piston (stock is cast i believe ,not sure ,they looked like cast parts ) the motor will be better than stock strength wise . And will make a heck of a lot of more torque ,which is the fun factor in a street bike .
Put a 1550cc big bore kit ,cams, a throttle body upgrade tuning and some light head work and a barnett clutch ,and go looking for some of those lo6 corvettes :thumb: :D :biker: .
Even with my 114 hp basicly stock v rod ,I cant even get any of the supossedly fast cars in town to even talk to me .

Supercharging ,turbocharging will make hp ,tq , but at a reliability price and unless you want to be tuning and adjusting instead of riding the the bb kit is
it :blahblah: :2cents:

regards neil

Stage -2 runs about $5200. I have a very hard time getting it to work with the 16ga. I would sugest a 2-1 for a true 140+ hp.
were are you in Wisconsin?

Steve you've done a GREAT job with the muffler mod , have you done any work with the 3rd volume? Here's a link from a chat with Jamie mac.. could you give us your thoughts on this, some of us love the looks of the stock exhaust and would come across as a sleeper too!..Thanks Greg

http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5694&highlight=jamie+mac

I did a mod center section a couple years back [ after a Jamie Mac seminar ] and it did help. It was a ton of work. I thought it would be too expensive for sale. But if there was interest I would look into it again. I have a rather large pile of ceneter sections<G>

I have a 04 b with D+D full 2-1 exhaust, K+N, stage 1 download, topless
I have ordered my wiseco 1320 bb. Dont have it yet. I am wondering if that could be combined with falicons 1/4 inch stroker crank with NO other mods. Will it fly? I am almost broke (chrome ) but NEED 100 ft/lbs Torque.

I have a 04 b with D+D full 2-1 exhaust, K+N, stage 1 download, topless
I have ordered my wiseco 1320 bb. Dont have it yet. I am wondering if that could be combined with falicons 1/4 inch stroker crank with NO other mods. Will it fly? I am almost broke (chrome ) but NEED 100 ft/lbs Torque.
YES YOU CAN, BUT YOU'LL NEED WIESCO'S STROKER PISTONS.

The Shorter rods from Falicon will work. Just not my idea of the correct setup. Your rod-stroke ratio gets out of shape. Piston accel is off also. Long story - short, you can make it work, its just a lot harder,

The Shorter rods from Falicon will work. Just not my idea of the correct setup. Your rod-stroke ratio gets out of shape. Piston accel is off also. Long story - short, you can make it work, its just a lot harder,
In our actual testing the .120 shorter rod made the same torque but a tad more HP on top. On this short of a stroke motor that change in rod lengh does not change the rod/stroke ratio very much.We have ran rods .300 longer than stock and .220 shorter and not much different. To keep your rod ratio the same when you install a stroker crank you should install a "longer" rod but I can't say you really need to. So I guess after all that my vote is if you want a stroker crank and already have pistons just put in the shorter rods. By the way a tad is not very much.

I don't think in the short run you will find much difference. And I agree , longer stroke normaly equalls a longer rod. And at the Higher compression ratio's , spark lead may not be a big issue.
I know these are ways around what we have to work with.

Maybe I should leave well enough alone and just go with the BB kit seeing how it seems to be a complicated issue with the stroke thing. Anyone with any recs on cams....I am getting cyclerama to hand port the heads, put bigger intake valve(41mm) with valve job. I do NOT want to lose low end torque, but would like to spice up mid range. Any suggestion... I gotta gave at least 130 hp and 90 torque. :twisted: