I have been giving alot of thought recently about going BB.I have lots of questions.Curious,as to how many miles on your engine do you guys have?Have you had any issues?How much power?What's your set up?How much $$$ do you have into it?

I quess what I'm trying to find out is how much reliability do you have?I don't have intentions of making it a race bike.I wanna have fast bike on the street,and be able to take 2-300 mile rides on the weekends.Something that will last a couple years or 20-30K miles.I don't wanna have to overhaul every winter.

What about these strokers.I know Falicon does great crank work.What are the longevity of these engines.

I have lots more questions,winter is approaching.Now is the time to get it going if I choose to.

My mechanic (Chris at Gerencers HD) said he could get me 140hp, no problem.
I have a line on a set of stage 2 ported heads with .5 lift cams.
But like I said earlier,wondering about longevity.

Any help would be appreciated. :thumb:

...

I have been giving alot of thought recently about going BB.I have lots of questions.Curious,as to how many miles on your engine do you guys have?Have you had any issues?How much power?What's your set up?How much $$$ do you have into it?

I quess what I'm trying to find out is how much reliability do you have?I don't have intentions of making it a race bike.I wanna have fast bike on the street,and be able to take 2-300 mile rides on the weekends.Something that will last a couple years or 20-30K miles.I don't wanna have to overhaul every winter.

What about these strokers.I know Falicon does great crank work.What are the longevity of these engines.

I have lots more questions,winter is approaching.Now is the time to get it going if I choose to.

My mechanic (Chris at Gerencers HD) said he could get me 140hp, no problem.
I have a line on a set of stage 2 ported heads with .5 lift cams.
But like I said earlier,wondering about longevity.

Any help would be appreciated. :thumb:

I HAVE 5300 MILES AND 40 RUNS AT THE TRACK ON THE WIESCO B.B
WITH ZIPPERS HEADS,THROTLE BODYS,WEB RACING CAMS CAM.
145 H.P. ONLY PROBLEM WAS WITH VALVE SPRINGS THAT ZIPPERS
CORRECTED.$5000.00 IS COST WITH LABOR.I'AMTEARING MOTOR DOWN
TO CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AND REPLACE TOTAL SEAL GAP LESS RINGS
BECAUSE THEY PULL OIL BY THE VALVE SEALS,NOT A BIG DEAL.
AS FAR AS STROKERS THE SAME APPLYS TO THE V-ROD AS ANY OTHER
MOTOR,LIFE DEPENDS ON YOUR RIGHT WRIST, IN MY OPINOIN. THE .500
LIFT CAMS IF THEY ARE ZIPPERS ARE FOR RACE USE ONLY! IDLES AT
1800 RPM. AT LEAST ON OUR STROKER. HOPE THIS HELPS.

I HAVE 5300 MILES AND 40 RUNS AT THE TRACK ON THE WIESCO B.B
WITH ZIPPERS HEADS,THROTLE BODYS,WEB RACING CAMS CAM.
145 H.P. ONLY PROBLEM WAS WITH VALVE SPRINGS THAT ZIPPERS
CORRECTED.$5000.00 IS COST WITH LABOR.I'AMTEARING MOTOR DOWN
TO CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AND REPLACE TOTAL SEAL GAP LESS RINGS
BECAUSE THEY PULL OIL BY THE VALVE SEALS,NOT A BIG DEAL.
AS FAR AS STROKERS THE SAME APPLYS TO THE V-ROD AS ANY OTHER
MOTOR,LIFE DEPENDS ON YOUR RIGHT WRIST, IN MY OPINOIN. THE .500
LIFT CAMS IF THEY ARE ZIPPERS ARE FOR RACE USE ONLY! IDLES AT
1800 RPM. AT LEAST ON OUR STROKER. HOPE THIS HELPS.

Rick,

What is the RPM range now?? Big bore and stroker range? Thanks.

Rick,

What is the RPM range now?? Big bore and stroker range? Thanks.
I SPIN IT TO 9600 RPM,SAME ON OUR STROKER.WEAR WILL OCCUR MORE ON
THE STROKER THAN A STOCK STROKE AT THAT RPM. I GO THAT HIGH ONLY
RACING ,FOR RPM DROP BETWEEN GEARS.DOSENT MAKE ANYMORE POWER
AT THAT RPM. 9000 RPM ON THE STREET.

Thanks for the info Rick, makes sense.

I HAVE 5300 MILES AND 40 RUNS AT THE TRACK ON THE WIESCO B.B
WITH ZIPPERS HEADS,THROTLE BODYS,WEB RACING CAMS CAM.
145 H.P. ONLY PROBLEM WAS WITH VALVE SPRINGS THAT ZIPPERS
CORRECTED.$5000.00 IS COST WITH LABOR.I'AMTEARING MOTOR DOWN
TO CHECK FOR ANY PROBLEMS AND REPLACE TOTAL SEAL GAP LESS RINGS
BECAUSE THEY PULL OIL BY THE VALVE SEALS,NOT A BIG DEAL.
AS FAR AS STROKERS THE SAME APPLYS TO THE V-ROD AS ANY OTHER
MOTOR,LIFE DEPENDS ON YOUR RIGHT WRIST, IN MY OPINOIN. THE .500
LIFT CAMS IF THEY ARE ZIPPERS ARE FOR RACE USE ONLY! IDLES AT
1800 RPM. AT LEAST ON OUR STROKER. HOPE THIS HELPS.
Are those hard driven miles?How many highway miles?
That hp level about were my dealers street bike is at maybe a little less cuz of SE slip-ons.Did you ad the gapless rings or is that part of BB kits?Cuz the BB uses 2sets of rings.I would be interested in hearing what if any probs you encounter during the tear down.The cams are custom grind from Web.The heads weren't done by Zippers.They said they would be good for the street.Both were on Lou jr's bike earlier this season.They ported more on another set and more cam(won't me what grind or make they are,with a smile on their faces)and was runner-up to Tripp at Indy.
I have confidence in their abilities.Just the BB's in general.

I have arond 7000 miles on my Zippers Big Bore and haven't had any prolems. I only get about 100 to 120 miles to a tank of gas. Thats if I stay out of the throttle. It was dynoed with 151 engine hp. I changed from my Sreamin Eagle racing pipes to BuB 2 into 2 cone system without the baffles( for the noise :) ) and had it dynoed at Wetzels this year and it came in at 127 hp at the engine. Pipes do make a difference

I have arond 7000 miles on my Zippers Big Bore and haven't had any prolems. I only get about 100 to 120 miles to a tank of gas. Thats if I stay out of the throttle. It was dynoed with 151 engine hp. I changed from my Sreamin Eagle racing pipes to BuB 2 into 2 cone system without the baffles( for the noise :) ) and had it dynoed at Wetzels this year and it came in at 127 hp at the engine. Pipes do make a difference

What else have you done to the motor besides BB?

Nothing. Everything is still the same as Washington HD has done to it except I'm running topless.

Nothing. Everything is still the same as Washington HD has done to it except I'm running topless.
Do you do any long distance riding?a couple hundred at a time?Sounds like you have confidence in the engine.

I have about 1k on my BB and get the same mileage as the above guys 35 36 mpg.

Of course if you richen up the maps and twist the throttle, you can actually see the gas gauge go down.

Three Questions:

1. I have a very slight miss between 3 and 4k which developed AFTER I drilled out the rear of my SE2's a little more. should I richen up the mix a little in these areas with my PC USB or lean it out some. If so how much?

2. In your experiences what are the best all around performance pipes for street and fooling around a little. I am running as I mentioned the SE2's and have modded the baffles some. I am getting 134 hp and 87.8ftlbs of torque.

3. Do you think that the CNC headwork will develop 10-15 incremental hp? I had my heads cleaned up and the spring kit and retainers put in. No bigger valves and trick CNC port job.

Regards

(1) Sounds like it's a little lean in that rpm range.I would add some more gas in that range.
(2)From my experiences:I've had 3 different pipes on my rod.IMHO.First the supertrapp V-5.They were great above 4500rpm,under that,they felt like a big flat spot.2nd the Turbotecs,had great pull all the way from idle to rev-limiter.They are bada$$ pipes,The best for all out power,if you don't mind haveing them recoated every year,and don't mind taking it easy with right hand turns,they sit pretty low.I now have the Jokers,I like them the best,They feel like they have more grunt in midrange at lower throttle positions.They are stainless,and leave a golden hue on the pipes,makes the bike look racey.I can really drop the bike in right-hand corners now that I don't have to worry about scraping the muffler.
Any of the 2into1 FULL exhaust sytems exhaust will give you more power.
(3)Yes CNCed heads will give you more HP.You will gain torque but not as much as HP.With the proper cams and a bigger TB you should get that 10-15 hp.

You have some good numbers.Did it feel like night and day when you switched to BB?Got any dyno sheets you can share?

Nice exhaust comparison Vinny.

V-Rod I FL, check out this post. Brent has changed out his cams and done some head work. I'm sure with this and a pipe change (TT, ST, Joker) you could get that extra HP you're looking for.

http://www.v-rodforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11911

I have about 1k on my BB and get the same mileage as the above guys 35 36 mpg.

Of course if you richen up the maps and twist the throttle, you can actually see the gas gauge go down.

Three Questions:

1. I have a very slight miss between 3 and 4k which developed AFTER I drilled out the rear of my SE2's a little more. should I richen up the mix a little in these areas with my PC USB or lean it out some. If so how much?

2. In your experiences what are the best all around performance pipes for street and fooling around a little. I am running as I mentioned the SE2's and have modded the baffles some. I am getting 134 hp and 87.8ftlbs of torque.

3. Do you think that the CNC headwork will develop 10-15 incremental hp? I had my heads cleaned up and the spring kit and retainers put in. No bigger valves and trick CNC port job.

Regards

damm ,no big bore kit just a remap w/pc3 screamin eagle pipes with 2-- 3/8 holes drilled in the baffles each pipe (sounds good imho)a k&n filter topless a metz 200 and if i am good i can get 38 mpg and if i run it hard the mileage goes to 31,bike runs good tho!

in any case big bore and stroker is the way to go for the street with a 3 ring piston that will give you all you can handle on the street ,torque is where its at,tq moves you off the line and accelerates the bike :2cents:

regards neil

Thanks again to everyone for all of their input.

I forgot to clarify that my hp and torque is at the rear wheel and at the dyno by the dealer.

ALSO another pole question for the group: How many us us are running dynisor oil, Mobil I for V Twins or Ambisol V-Twins and what weight in our new BB's.

I still run 10-50 HD BUT have been contemplating using the synthetics at the next change.


WE REALLY NEED TO WORK AT KEEPING THIS BIG BORE SECTION ACTIVE so it doesn't go away due to inactivity.

Regards

GUYS THANKS FOR ALL OF THE INPUT!!!

I am convinced that the Eagle, Zippers or Tilley's CNC Heads will boost the power and torque up to the 145- 1555 hp and 90 plus ftlbs range.

I already have the tuned stacks and larger injectors with the BB.

For me, I am trying to build the optmium street and street cruiser ride configuration. In this regard, I run one of the few 29 tooth gears as opposed to the 28 tooth or new 26 tooth.

We BIG BORE guys need to make sure that this section of the forum doesn't die due to inactivity.

(1) Sounds like it's a little lean in that rpm range.I would add some more gas in that range.
(2)From my experiences:I've had 3 different pipes on my rod.IMHO.First the supertrapp V-5.They were great above 4500rpm,under that,they felt like a big flat spot.2nd the Turbotecs,had great pull all the way from idle to rev-limiter.They are bada$$ pipes,The best for all out power,if you don't mind haveing them recoated every year,and don't mind taking it easy with right hand turns,they sit pretty low.I now have the Jokers,I like them the best,They feel like they have more grunt in midrange at lower throttle positions.They are stainless,and leave a golden hue on the pipes,makes the bike look racey.I can really drop the bike in right-hand corners now that I don't have to worry about scraping the muffler.
Any of the 2into1 FULL exhaust sytems exhaust will give you more power.
(3)Yes CNCed heads will give you more HP.You will gain torque but not as much as HP.With the proper cams and a bigger TB you should get that 10-15 hp.

You have some good numbers.Did it feel like night and day when you switched to BB?Got any dyno sheets you can share?

Vinny, I like how you mention the ability to use the whole tire on the right side with the Joker exhaust, plus it's stainless and makes great power. Where did you purchase them? Please tell me you found them cheaper than $750.00 (V-Mod)! I've almost worn through the bottom of my 16g DB's and will be looking soon. Thanks.

(Vrodvinny)Yes I have road a few hundred miles at a time and no problems. The bike runs great. I will be taking it in for my 10,000 serv. and will be getting a evaluation on the motor to see if anything needs to be redone.

Vinny, I like how you mention the ability to use the whole tire on the right side with the Joker exhaust, plus it's stainless and makes great power. Where did you purchase them? Please tell me you found them cheaper than $750.00 (V-Mod)! I've almost worn through the bottom of my 16g DB's and will be looking soon. Thanks.
I got them from v-mod. :stilpoke: $750 Insurance paid for them ;)

"WE REALLY NEED TO WORK AT KEEPING THIS BIG BORE SECTION ACTIVE so it doesn't go away due to inactivity."Quote V-Rod I FL
I agree,There are a number of members that have BB's.I wish they would chime in and give their thoughts and experiences,

I got them from v-mod. :stilpoke: $750 Insurance paid for them ;)

"WE REALLY NEED TO WORK AT KEEPING THIS BIG BORE SECTION ACTIVE so it doesn't go away due to inactivity."Quote V-Rod I FL
I agree,There are a number of members that have BB's.I wish they would chime in and give their thoughts and experiences,

Thanks, been checkin' around and you're right.

Are those hard driven miles?How many highway miles?
That hp level about were my dealers street bike is at maybe a little less cuz of SE slip-ons.Did you ad the gapless rings or is that part of BB kits?Cuz the BB uses 2sets of rings.I would be interested in hearing what if any probs you encounter during the tear down.The cams are custom grind from Web.The heads weren't done by Zippers.They said they would be good for the street.Both were on Lou jr's bike earlier this season.They ported more on another set and more cam(won't me what grind or make they are,with a smile on their faces)and was runner-up to Tripp at Indy.
I have confidence in their abilities.Just the BB's in general.

I ADDED THE GAPLESS RINGS IN THE BEGINING,MOST THE MILES ARE HIGHWAY
MILES.AS I LIVE 94 MILES AWAY ROUND TRIP FROM WORK.WILL POST WHAT
I FIND AFTER TEAR DOWN AND RE-RING.WORKING ON THE STROKER RIGHT
NOW.PROBALLY WILL GET TO IT IN DEC.OR JAN.

I went and did some talking with my mechanic today,about going BB.He is ready to do it.I'm not.I gotta bring the bike back tuesday(bubbles on 2 week old chrome swingarm).I'm gonna sit down with him and Lou Jr.and talk prices.He said probably around $7K. :whack: :bash: 150HP/95-100lbs torque :thumb:
I hope when I drop it off Tues,the price will drop. :eek: Wanna do a package deal with wheels also.I'm gonna have to print out some prices from V-mod and Eagle Hd's website BB prices.I know v-mod and Eagle could do it cheaper,But this Dealer has gone outta the way for me :thumb: ,(musta been the beer)and I didn't even buy the bike from them.I don't wanna go behind their back.This is a big investment.

Rick,How much oil did you go thru at 1K intervals,with the gapless rings?This 2 ring thing is new to me.I am not used to nor have I dabbled in a 2 ring set up before,just 3 rings on V-8's.I know that there is less friction with the 2 ring setup.But it seems to work fine since there have been no complaints :sad: from members of the forum about bad BB's.

I went and did some talking with my mechanic today,about going BB.He is ready to do it.I'm not.I gotta bring the bike back tuesday(bubbles on 2 week old chrome swingarm).I'm gonna sit down with him and Lou Jr.and talk prices.He said probably around $7K. :whack: :bash: 150HP/95-100lbs torque :thumb:
I hope when I drop it off Tues,the price will drop. :eek: Wanna do a package deal with wheels also.I'm gonna have to print out some prices from V-mod and Eagle Hd's website BB prices.I know v-mod and Eagle could do it cheaper,But this Dealer has gone outta the way for me :thumb: ,(musta been the beer)and I didn't even buy the bike from them.I don't wanna go behind their back.This is a big investment.

Rick,How much oil did you go thru at 1K intervals,with the gapless rings?This 2 ring thing is new to me.I am not used to nor have I dabbled in a 2 ring set up before,just 3 rings on V-8's.I know that there is less friction with the 2 ring setup.But it seems to work fine since there have been no complaints :sad: from members of the forum about bad BB's.

IT USED A COUPLE OF OUNCES, I'AM CHANGING BECAUSE AFTER IT WARMS
UP IF YOU SHUT IT DOWN AND START IT, IT SMOKES JUST A LITTLE,
AND I DONT LIKE THE BUILD UP OF CARBON ON THE VALVES. $7000.00
IS ABOUT WHAT EAGLE AND V-MOD WOULD CHARGE FOR THE BIG BORE
WITH LABOR.(AS WELL AS MY SHOP.)

Rick....For $7.000 whats all in the motor? Stroker, head work, cams...ect

IT USED A COUPLE OF OUNCES, I'AM CHANGING BECAUSE AFTER IT WARMS
UP IF YOU SHUT IT DOWN AND START IT, IT SMOKES JUST A LITTLE,
AND I DONT LIKE THE BUILD UP OF CARBON ON THE VALVES. $7000.00
IS ABOUT WHAT EAGLE AND V-MOD WOULD CHARGE FOR THE BIG BORE
WITH LABOR.(AS WELL AS MY SHOP.)
Thanks Rick,I quess that sounds about right.Gonna work on a package deal with wheels also,maybe price will drop.Heck that's gonna be $10K,easy :eek:
.

Rick....For $7.000 whats all in the motor? Stroker, head work, cams...ect
HEADS,CAMS,RE-SLEEVE,THROTTLE BODYS,VEL.STACKS,BB.KIT.TUNING.
LABOR.

Rick Don't forget the machining of the cases $999 or so anywhere you go. It IS NOT something I would want to leave to the untrained.

Also the labor tear down and motor rebuild at $65 or more per hr is a BIG component.

Regards

Todd:

WHAT Screamin Eagle racing pipes are you referring to?? The stock looking ones or the SE2's (16ga double barrels).

Regards.

Rick Don't forget the machining of the cases $999 or so anywhere you go. It IS NOT something I would want to leave to the untrained.

Also the labor tear down and motor rebuild at $65 or more per hr is a BIG component.

Regards
INCLUDED! MY SHOP RATE IS 61.88 AN HOUR.

The 16 gauage double barrels. (Those darn things weighed around 30 to 40 pounds.)

HEADS,CAMS,RE-SLEEVE,THROTTLE BODYS,VEL.STACKS,BB.KIT.TUNING.
LABOR.
Greg,
These are all what is included+case machining,when I decide to tell them"go for it"
You also got your gasket kit,fluids,clutch work

I am leaning toward the Falicon BB. How do I know what fuel injection work
is needed? Who is the best to buy larger throttle bodies from? How do you map it? Thanks

I am leaning toward the Falicon BB. How do I know what fuel injection work
is needed? Who is the best to buy larger throttle bodies from? How do you map it? Thanks
YOU WONT NEED ANY FUEL INJECTION WORK OTHER THAN MAPPING,THERE
ARE SEVERAL COMPANYS THAT BORE YOUR STOCK THROTLE BODY, WEISCO,
GERALOMY, ZIPPERS,ECT. YOU BEGIN WITH THE RACE TUNER AND CHANGE
ENGINE SIZE. THEN MAP AT ALL THROTLE POSITIONS. I WOULD'NT MAP ABOVE
50% THROTLE UNTILL IT'S BROKE IN.

I WOULD'NT MAP ABOVE
50% THROTLE UNTILL IT'S BROKE IN.
I was gonna ask about that.
Is it the same break procedure as a stock motor?

CLUTCH WORK- I would recommend you consider the Barnett clutch if you are just going to ride on the street and fool around a little. I had my set up done while the motor was down ($140).

BREAK IN -- Stay below 5 -6 grand for about 500 miles and vary the speeds to set the rings AND THEN........CHANGE THE OIL AND RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!

Toddsvrod03

With the weight you mentioned, you must mean the SE1's that look like the stock pipes and have Screaming Eagle scribed on the top exhaust cover.

The SE2's are the double barrels and allow for the removal of the large exhaust chamber just prior to the exhaust pipes. That's what weighs so much.

V-Rod I FL

The pipes I had were all one piece. They did not come apart at the mufflers. They also had double H pipes welded in-between the two pipes. I'm not really sure why they weighed so much, but they don't look nothing like the stock pipes. Here is a picture of what the pipes looked like. ( this is not my bike)

Toddsvrod03

You are right those are SE2's. Mine don't weigh that much.

Regards