I was looking around and everyone is asking what there best times stock were. So, what are the best times on your stock destroyer?

maybe i am asking this in the wrong thread, ask me to delete it and i will...but...

as i understand it you are not allowed to modify your destroyer when racing in a circuit, is this true? or to what extent are you allowed to?

maybe i am asking this in the wrong thread, ask me to delete it and i will...but...

as i understand it you are not allowed to modify your destroyer when racing in a circuit, is this true? or to what extent are you allowed to?

Basically that is correct mate. If you are running in AHDRA's VRD class they can swap motors with you from what I understand. They are subject to scrutineering from the sanctioning body.

maybe i am asking this in the wrong thread, ask me to delete it and i will...but...

as i understand it you are not allowed to modify your destroyer when racing in a circuit, is this true? or to what extent are you allowed to?Ok, to better answer your question. I will break a 2 series down. I race in both.

AHDRA----- In the VRD (Destroyer) class you have to get your bike dynoed with a street tire and make sure that it is with in their window of horse power 156 - 162. Then the motor is sealed. You can add the data system to collect data but that is it. You can rebuild the motor but you will have to re dyno it and get it re sealed. This is a heads up class. Any other class you run in you can do what you want to the bike.

AMRA ----- No, NOS, TURBO OR Super Charger but if you run both series you leave it alone. Now, in the AMRA they have Index classes. They do not have a set DESTROYER ONLY class.

Both series have National Championships and alot of people run some in both series.

Now, all that I was doing was giving people the thread to post their Destroyer 1/4 times.

Here one of my time slips and this is not my best. So, I will post one first. It is a 9.243 @ 144.09 mph.120335

Here one of my time slips and this is not my best. So, I will post one first. It is a 90243 @ 144.09 mph.120335

9.243, nice! :thumb: What is your weight?

170 pounds.

9.75 after 6 or so passes. Im 210lbs.

9.75 after 6 or so passes. Im 210lbs.
Well congratulations Scotty!!!!!!! You'll be down in the 8's before you know it.

BTW: I am REALLY HOPING you went thru the postings here on what to check before you started your Destroyer for the first time.

The Water Pump Bolts and Rear Sprocket--etc. I don't want you to have a bad experience because you werrn't aware...

Regards

Jerry

Yes Jerry,
I have the Vance & Hines electric water pump and Larry at Eagle did the motor before it came home so I am confident motor will be fine. Rear sprocket I havent checked to be honest but thanks for reminding me. I will look up the thread on the torque specs and loctite from memory. Only thing I have had is a bit of steering head shake so I gave the damper 1 turn yesterday. BTW, thanks for the kind words Jerry! ;)

Well congratulations Scotty!!!!!!! You'll be down in the 8's before you know it.

BTW: I am REALLY HOPING you went thru the postings here on what to check before you started your Destroyer for the first time.

The Water Pump Bolts and Rear Sprocket--etc. I don't want you to have a bad experience because you werrn't aware...

Regards

Jerry

Yes Jerry,
I have the Vance & Hines electric water pump and Larry at Eagle did the motor before it came home so I am confident motor will be fine. Rear sprocket I havent checked to be honest but thanks for reminding me. I will look up the thread on the torque specs and loctite from memory. Only thing I have had is a bit of steering head shake so I gave the damper 1 turn yesterday. BTW, thanks for the kind words Jerry! ;)
GLAD TO HELP!!!!!

I guess you aren't running the "Official Destroyer Class aka VR in the "Down Under" so you can get away with the electric water pump.

FWIW: I think Pingel has a steering damper for the V-Rods on their site.

No Jerry, we dont have VRD down under. We run modified bike which is handicap and everything quicker than 10.5
We get lots of hayabusas and some comp bikes in the class so it gets interesting :)

The steering damper that is on the Destroyer, is that no good? I just tightened it up a little, could probably go another 1/2 turn I reckon...

GLAD TO HELP!!!!!

I guess you aren't running the "Official Destroyer Class aka VR in the "Down Under" so you can get away with the electric water pump.

FWIW: I think Pingel has a steering damper for the V-Rods on their site.

New PB 9.71 @128

9.75 after 6 or so passes. Im 210lbs.Is this what you weight before or after the race suit? Congrats on your time it will get better and better. One thing, I do not have a steering damper and have not felt any head shake on my bike. The only times that I did was when I bent my front rim or the dyno at a AHDRA race did. WARNING. The front rim is VERY SOFT. It will bend if you tighten it down too hard in a trailer, on the DYNO, or if your front tire is wet coming out of the burnout box and you grab the front break and your front wheel seems to slide side ways. I did it and saw other people do this.

Im 210 dry plus suit etc. I have run 9.71 since and I rolled off in the middle of the trap for some dumb reason. I reckon it had a 9.6 in it! All destroyers have the damper on the bottom of the tree, a 3/16 socket head cap screw to adjust it. I just tightened it up a turn and its all good. I have been warned about the front wheel, thanks for letting me know! Off to the first national round right now. Wish me luck :D
Scotty :thumb:

Is this what you weight before or after the race suit? Congrats on your time it will get better and better. One thing, I do not have a steering damper and have not felt any head shake on my bike. The only times that I did was when I bent my front rim or the dyno at a AHDRA race did. WARNING. The front rim is VERY SOFT. It will bend if you tighten it down too hard in a trailer, on the DYNO, or if your front tire is wet coming out of the burnout box and you grab the front break and your front wheel seems to slide side ways. I did it and saw other people do this.

9.243, nice! :thumb: What is your weight?

my weight is 180 and i can not get under 9.9. i am useing bike just as it came from factory. maybe you can help me with mapping and clutch settup. i would be very grateful if you could help. thanks jerry

Not sure if I can help mate. I have only a few passes under my belt myself.

Did run a 9.700 on the weekend but with a 1.43 60' :thumb:

My suggestions:
Start with launch RPM (around 7000 to start), tyre pressure (around 8lbs) and wheelie bar height (read manual).

I am 200lbs so you should be able to run at least 9.6 or so Id imagine.....

my weight is 180 and i can not get under 9.9. i am useing bike just as it came from factory. maybe you can help me with mapping and clutch settup. i would be very grateful if you could help. thanks jerry

Here one of my time slips and this is not my best. So, I will post one first. It is a 9.243 @ 144.09 mph.120335

i would like to get my 1/4 mile times down to the area you are in. could you help me with clutch setup and mapping? i am running bike just as it came from factory.9.89 is my best time. thanks for any help you can give. jerry

Not sure if I can help mate. I have only a few passes under my belt myself.

Did run a 9.700 on the weekend but with a 1.43 60' :thumb:

My suggestions:
Start with launch RPM (around 7000 to start), tyre pressure (around 8lbs) and wheelie bar height (read manual).

I am 200lbs so you should be able to run at least 9.6 or so Id imagine.....That air pressure is kind of low.

i would like to get my 1/4 mile times down to the area you are in. could you help me with clutch setup and mapping? i am running bike just as it came from factory.9.89 is my best time. thanks for any help you can give. jerryYes, Jerry I will help you.

That air pressure is kind of low.

What pressure do you run?

It really depends on the track but 9 1/2 and up.What pressure do you run?

Ran a new PB last week. 9.507 @ 140. 1.34 60' 7.5 psi rear tyre. I like it low :D

It really depends on the track but 9 1/2 and up.

Hi there, I'm based in the UK and have ran a PB of 9.877 @ 135mph at Santa Pod Raceway last year.
This year I've given the Destroyer a sniff of Nitrous (small amount as I'm still running U4.2) and got to 9.56 @138mph again at Santa Pod
Before you ask, I'm approx 235lbs in all my riding gear!
I'm just doing RWYBs, no racing, just playing!!

Hi there, I'm based in the UK and have ran a PB of 9.877 @ 135mph at Santa Pod Raceway last year.
This year I've given the Destroyer a sniff of Nitrous (small amount as I'm still running U4.2) and got to 9.56 @138mph again at Santa Pod
Before you ask, I'm approx 235lbs in all my riding gear!
I'm just doing RWYBs, no racing, just playing!!

Update:
Lost a bit of weight, now 230lbs!!!!
9.42 / 141
Same venue, a little more juice and now an M/T slick and slightly higher gearing (-2T rear)

Update:
Lost a bit of weight, now 230lbs!!!!
9.42 / 141
Same venue, a little more juice and now an M/T slick and slightly higher gearing (-2T rear)

Damm good pass.

What NOS kit you using and how much of a shot you using?
Curious as I want to run it on mine. What mods if any were required?

Update:
Lost a bit of weight, now 230lbs!!!!
9.42 / 141
Same venue, a little more juice and now an M/T slick and slightly higher gearing (-2T rear)

Ran a new PB last week. 9.507 @ 140. 1.34 60' 7.5 psi rear tyre. I like it low :D
Way To Go Scotty!!!!!

Regards

Thanks Jerry :thumb:

Way To Go Scotty!!!!!

Regards

What NOS kit you using and how much of a shot you using?
Curious as I want to run it on mine. What mods if any were required?

Hi Scotty, sorry for the late reply but I don't often check the site. Here's a post I put in a while back in the Big Bore/Turbo/Nitrous section under the "Boss Noss kit on Destroyer"

Hi there, just an update:
I've backed off the timing on each cyl by 2 degs via the SERT and I've gone up a bit further to approx 40hp more (...big deal I hear you say?). So far the fuel pump is delivering more than I need because I've got an AFR of approx 10.5 (very rich I know!)
I started to mess about with a N20 pressure reg but I ended up with a sub 10 AFR and the thing was flat and wouldn't pull. (I needed bigger N20 jets but didn't have them)
My plan was to run with the reg at a pressure (at the solenoid) that is as low as it will ever get naturally by normal use. What I'm trying to say that at the beginning of the run when the bottle is at ambient temp and the pressure is OK the AFR will be fine but as you progress down the strip and use the N20 the bottle will cool (laws of physics) and the pressure will be less at the top end (lower AFR). So what I want to do is adjust the reg so that the press is fairly constant at the solenoid throughout the run.
However I'm still not convinced the reg can work properly because the pressure is simply dictated by the temp of the liquid (again, Laws of Physics). The only way it can work is to allow the juice to be cooler (therefore lower pressure) AFTER the regulator (i.e. at the solenoid).
Anyway I'll keep you posted.
My best so far is 9.42 / 141 which may not impress until you realise that I'm 230+lbs when I step on the bike!!
Best 60` so far is 1.37
My next outing will have more juice to bring the AFR up but I will monitor the fuel pressure carefully to make sure I don't get caught out.

...............my next outing is in about 5 weeks or so with more juice (only around 50hp estimated so far)

Good luck!

What NOS kit you using and how much of a shot you using?
Curious as I want to run it on mine. What mods if any were required?

Oh yes, the Nitrous hardware:
I use stuff from Wizards of NOS
http://www.noswizard.com

I like their stuff, it is good quality and it's based in the UK which is good for me anyway. It's a bit of a mix & match with their components but I've added a N20 press reg (...still not convinced, see my earlier post) and I have a different method of distributing the fuel to each intake stack to take out the effects of G-force when I launch.

One thing I will share with you all is the last time I was out I ran the slightly higher gearing (rear spkt -2T) and the M/T #3222 slick.
I read M/T's tyre press recommendations and I ran the tyre @ 8.0 psi. Incredible traction but I think my clutch is doing ALL the slipping now and the tyre is doing none of it!! (I can see this on the RacePak data). I'm already on the RED springs with launch @ approx 8k.

Now to the point of this post: At the top end of the strip on most of the runs the bike got into a bit of a wobble after shutting off (tyre unloading). One of these runs recorded a 0.75 G Lateral woble for a couple of seconds. I tightened the damper more (stock VRXSE) on an earlier run and that resulted in the wobble above!!
....I've loosened it off a bit now, it still wobbles but as we all know time/speed is more important than a few wobbles here and there!!!

I have not had a wobble on either of my destroyers on decell. I would tell you to check the balance on your tires.

[QUOTE=
....I've loosened it off a bit now, it still wobbles but as we all know time/speed is more important than a few wobbles here and there!!![/QUOTE]

check your front wheel!!!!!!
put a aftermarket steering stabalizer on it!!!
a few wobbles here and there can put you in the hospital.

rich v

Hi there.
Wheel balance is OK. No appreciable wobbles last time out. I've just tightened up the steering damper a lot more. I may have to get a proper one!
another update:
I was out @ Santa Pod last w/end and managed a 9.30 @ 142.5.
Not bad I reckon because I'm still 230 llbs!!
60` was 1.45
I didn't use the N2O pressure reg on this meeting (Laws of Physics).
I richened the map slightly (AFR table from 12.5 to 12.0) from 7k thru to 11k to compensate for the slightly bigger N2O jets (but no bigger fuel jets) as I was trying to get the AFR >10.
Still no luck, I may have pressure drop problems with my N2O system on the N2O side as I increased the jets even more but no apparent difference to either AFR, EGT (still runs lower than running the bike without juice, therefore seems safe) or TS (give or take a mph).
I will alter the relationship between solenoid seat & plunger slightly and up the nitrous line & fittings from 4mm to 5mm (2.0 vs 2.5mm ID). This will eliminate any possibliity of pressure drop before my nitrous metering jets.
I'll then drop down a couple of sizes (to be safe) and try again in about 3 wks.
I'm still running the nitrous system manually (using the "Tach Mode" button as I never use the tach in "race mode" anyway) but I'm going to re-wire the system so that it comes in straight away using the existing clutch switch but still using the "Tach Mode" button as a "Dead-Mans-Handle", ...in other words if I hear/feel something I don't like I take my finger off the button and the juice stops!
As we all know 60` is king and as my data keeps telling me that I'm getting the juice on at the earliest of approx 1.3 secs after I leave the line then hopefully it will be quicker and go some way to overcoming my vast bulk!

....more later.

Hi there...........
update from Santa Pod yesterday.
I've now run 9.16 @ 143.6 with a 1.37s 60`
AND I weigh 230 lbs!!!!!
I'm now using an ARC bottle heater to keep my system @ 800psi (my choice, normally the pressure setting is around 950psi when using a bottle heater system)
The triggering of the juice is done by the clutch switch circuit (digital 8v signal NO Current available to directly switch a relay) with a user inputed delay.
I started with 0.9s delay (clutch out to full hit of juice) I chose this so as not to overwhelm the clutch which I've got set in a way that takes approx 0.8s to fully engage.
I ended up with the delay @ 0.5 sec with a full hit of approx 60hp.
Basically the plan was and is shim up the clutch (make it more fierce) and offset the natural tendency to bog down with earlier & earlier triggering of the juice. I'm very lucky 'cause I can see what everything is doing from my RacePak data.
The M/T #3222 slick is good, ....doesn't spin (track race prepared with traction compound sprayed on each lane. My tyre pressure @ 8psi)

I haven't spent a massive time on this entry as to be honest there doesn't seem to be that much interest.
Anyway, not sure if the bike will be out again this year......

We'll see!

Wow. Nice time. How hard are you launching at? I know all to well about that drop on the race pack off of the line. I have been fighting that with my destroyers. Do you still have the stock destroyer motor?Hi there...........
update from Santa Pod yesterday.
I've now run 9.16 @ 143.6 with a 1.37s 60`
AND I weigh 230 lbs!!!!!
I'm now using an ARC bottle heater to keep my system @ 800psi (my choice, normally the pressure setting is around 950psi when using a bottle heater system)
The triggering of the juice is done by the clutch switch circuit (digital 8v signal NO Current available to directly switch a relay) with a user inputed delay.
I started with 0.9s delay (clutch out to full hit of juice) I chose this so as not to overwhelm the clutch which I've got set in a way that takes approx 0.8s to fully engage.
I ended up with the delay @ 0.5 sec with a full hit of approx 60hp.
Basically the plan was and is shim up the clutch (make it more fierce) and offset the natural tendency to bog down with earlier & earlier triggering of the juice. I'm very lucky 'cause I can see what everything is doing from my RacePak data.
The M/T #3222 slick is good, ....doesn't spin (track race prepared with traction compound sprayed on each lane. My tyre pressure @ 8psi)

I haven't spent a massive time on this entry as to be honest there doesn't seem to be that much interest.
Anyway, not sure if the bike will be out again this year......

We'll see!

Wow. Nice time. How hard are you launching at? I know all to well about that drop on the race pack off of the line. I have been fighting that with my destroyers. Do you still have the stock destroyer motor?

Launch @ 8500
The motor is still stock. I'll be fitting a billet clutch basket soon (before it's too late!) and I have the V&H 2nd gear set ready to fit but I'm hoping I'll continue to get away with it as I'm running a really SLOW 100ms Kill time! (yes, really!)
I'm just working out the wiring/integration kinks in my latest addition to the electronics and that is an MPS Auto shift system. I'll be "activating" it electronically around 1.2 secs from "clutch out" and deactivating it around 8.2 secs from clutch out (to prevent a phantom 5th gear change at the trap)